Just roached a new Meteor cylinder on my Husky 395, ticked off.

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Using 100:1 may be fine for factory set weedwackers and Harry Home Owner saws that are already set on the fat side, but I think it has no place in high rpm pro saws.
40:1 is cheap insurance for a properly adjusted 2 stroke.
100:1 may be just another EPA ploy.
 
Thought I should chime back in guys, and I'm grateful for all the comments and suggestions. I do have to now also say that I noticed the intake boot was torn, and don't know if that occurred while I was taking it apart or not.
First thing-when I said 'front', I mean exhaust side. Second thing-In the future I will only run 50:1, what oil I choose doesn't matter, Amsoil or not, but I never had issues before with conventional oil, so, I suspect Amsoil run at 50:1 will be fine. Third-I should have run 40:1 or even 32:1 break in, but maybe the rings are moly? I don't even know. I am miffed at Amsoil however, and their lack of clarity easily makes one believe you can run 100:1 in any 2 stroke. Whether the intake boot or the oil caused it, I suspect it could be a combination, but surely, 100:1 is just too lean. And it won't happen again.
I'd blown a wrist pin on my oem used 394 a year ago, put on an aftermarket FarmerTec jug simply because I didn't want to bite the $300+ price for OEM. Then in Feb I blew the piston on that saw-it had a big crack in it. Set that jug aside, and got the Meteor. I do think both jugs MAY be reusable after some scotchbrite work we'll see, haven't had time. Anyway, good forum and thanks for the info.
 
Just to tell all of you, my Amsoil Saber bottle, and the single use envelopes, all say to 'use 100:1 for chain saws'. Nothing says use 'up to 100:1'. To me that's a big problem. They also advertised this product as a way to avoid having multiple gas cans of mixes around, one for all, hence why I used it. It's a handy way of dealing with mixes. But for the 95 and 72, I'm definitely going back to 50:1.
 
Just to tell all of you, my Amsoil Saber bottle, and the single use envelopes, all say to 'use 100:1 for chain saws'. Nothing says use 'up to 100:1'. To me that's a big problem. They also advertised this product as a way to avoid having multiple gas cans of mixes around, one for all, hence why I used it. It's a handy way of dealing with mixes. But for the 95 and 72, I'm definitely going back to 50:1.
The older jugs said "use". The newer jugs say "up to". It's possible that you dealer may still have been stocking the old jugs if he bought in bulk before they changed the label due to problems like yours.
 
All my 2 strokes get 32:1 Lucas because pints are cheap locally. You can tune all your engines to the same mix. I run everything from the red Poulan 3700 to my new last year Husqvarna 525LS on 32:1.
 
Let's reiterate. ...this is not an oil thread. Odds are that intake boot is the issue....but still needs a pressure test.

The lack of oil here means there is less room for error. ...but that's all that means

Can the cylinder be cleaned up?
 
Just to tell all of you, my Amsoil Saber bottle, and the single use envelopes, all say to 'use 100:1 for chain saws'. Nothing says use 'up to 100:1'. To me that's a big problem. They also advertised this product as a way to avoid having multiple gas cans of mixes around, one for all, hence why I used it. It's a handy way of dealing with mixes. But for the 95 and 72, I'm definitely going back to 50:1.
I'd like to see a picture of that label. If that's the way it is worded then I'm sure the list of lawyers who believe this is a liability will be long.
 
Notice the label and back clearly say nothing about UP TO 100:1, and the 'implied' mix is 100:1 when you clearly label it thus, to me makes them liable. Now their website doesn't show Saber as 100:1 anymore, but as 2 cycle oil, and the verbiage indicates to use UP to 100:1. Their warranty says to use their products like the mfgr indicates, but I remember specifically buying it because they said to use 1 oil for all mix ratios, thus, the convenience factor was the selling point.

The question is whether the torn intake boot was the primary cause, or, if in conjunction with the oil, we have this failure. Had the boot not been ripped, maybe it would have been fine, or, had a somewhat shorter life than 50:1 oils. I can't really say it's all Amsoil's fault, and I'm glad they don't advertise it as 100:1 anymore, but as a distributor, I'm definitely going to write them and indicate they need to be crystal clear...
 

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The question is whether the torn intake boot was the primary cause, or, if in conjunction with the oil, we have this failure. Had the boot not been ripped, maybe it would have been fine, or, had a somewhat shorter life than 50:1 oils. I can't really say it's all Amsoil's fault, and I'm glad they don't advertise it as 100:1 anymore, but as a distributor, I'm definitely going to write them and indicate they need to be crystal clear...

Not properly going over the saw, and not understanding what an air leak is or does caused the failure. A large air leak will fry a saw in short order. Oil thread of not, I've seen the inside of saws ran on 100:1 and know of countless other that have bit the dust on that ratio, I even have pics. However it will normally take a little while, or an extended cut before 100:1 will cause real issues.

This is a 441 that was ran on Amsoil 100:1 for a few tanks, the saw was in perfect working order, it's been ported and still in use.
441 piston..jpg
 
Nice post Andy. with 100:1 ratio, there is basically zero margin of error. Running the saw even a little bit lean will end up in a seizure. The torn boot is likely the cause.

so:

#1, get a new boot
#2, clean up the cylinder (if possible) and get a new piston OR new P&C
#3, pressure test the saw before putting it in service or risk losing ANOTHER P&C
#4, run more oil than 100:1.

nuff said, hope you get er runnin
 
I'm taking no risks in the future, 50:1 for me, but obviously we can't have air leaks. A good thing check.
 
I'm taking no risks in the future, 50:1 for me, but obviously we can't have air leaks. A good thing check.

Really small air leaks aren't always noticeable, but most of the time it will cause the engine to idle and run erratically and not hold a proper tune. Paying attention to how an engine is running, and shutting it down if something not right, can prevent costly repairs.
 
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