Keeping cuts level????

[tatra805]

just my 2 novice cents

When you are throwing a ball to a target, what are you looking at? The ball or the target?

And yes even by looking at the target and not keeping an eye on the ball you are more succesfull to hit the target.

The human body is a nice piece of equipment that compensates and drives a lot of things to make your arm swing the right way to get that ball on target.

I noticed the same thing with cutting. Look at the place where you want to end and it is as if your body is positioning the saw to go there.

If I keep focussing on the saw itself it just doesnt work out. Remember how much your body is moving while cutting, if you try to control your saw by thinking your active brain might do you short.

I am sure that you have to be used to handle your saw, your body needs to know what it is handling (like throwing a ball for the first time, it will also not be as precise)

 

[toddstreeservic]

+1 :agree2: I scribe a line with my saw tip

 

[superfire]

praktice maces perfect

one thing i found some greenhorns doing is standing wrong. me i kneel down to get the best support for the saw. also i am a low stumper lees chance of a stump being left to destroy equipment . some tree i just say skrew it and high stump because of rotten of krap in the stump zone.

 

[testlight]

Duct tape a level on your saw, don't let the saw out of your hands for three days and nights, keep the bar level at all times. On the forth day replace the level with an orange, continue this exercise for another three days. On the seventh day your bar and level will be one and the same.

 

[lmalterna]

I wrap a peice of rope around the stump and mark the circle with a yellow carpenters pencil. This helps me keep straight - then I dra my notch but I am going to try epoxying a puck level to the upper cover.

I have not cut enough, consistantly to get it right "by eye".

2Door

 

[Ivan H.]

I have the same problem.I find if I make my undercut first that I make my face level,and don't overcut,or or miss the face.

 

[stumpjumper83]

Levels on chainsaws....

I had a tree go where it wanted instead of where I wanted due to me cutting an angle in the backcut. So I bought a line level and zip tied it to the mesh grid on the starter housing on my 460, 24" bar too btw. If I remember right the level was hard to use, I'm thinking that the vibes from the saw messed with the bubble. Anyhow, I practiced scribing lines either with the bar nose, or with a lumber crayon. After a bit of practice, I'm doing better. My thing is not to get into a hurry and just wack the tree off, take your time and mark it out, check your gun twice, and take your time. A second eye also helps...

 

[056kid]

When i start a flat face or back cut. I like to pull back as the bar buries, then push her foward to set the dawgs in one motion. on the second face cut i pivot the saw out of the kirf, make my face angle(about 30 digrees) and immediately dog in. After about a yeear of humboldting i will NEVER turn back. SO much easier!!!

Unless im falling up hill.. or cutting hollow butts..

 

[toddstreeservic]

The guy I work with showed me this trick to make the 2nd cut on the wedge easier. Make your first cut, then take 2 little twigs and stick them in the back of the cut on either side so they are sticking out. This makes it easier to see wear the back of you first cut is so you can meet it. Cheap easy and works good.

 

[Ramblewood]

I have glued a puck level to my 029 and it does help . I tried to do it on my 441 but there is no place flat enough to keep the bubble centered when the bar is level . And the bubble does turn into lots of little bubbles when the saw is rollin . I keep a small roll of fluorescent green string and go around bigger trees with it to give me a reference line and sometimes use a yellow lumber crayon to mark the hinge I want to leave . I would love to have a few acres of big, straight trees to practice on instead of random hardwoods where no two are alike .