Kickback

[Tree Sling'r]

Read a lot on here about people and their fears of kick back.

The simplist solution is the way the saw is held by the top handle. Wrap your thumb, don't let it ride on the top handle, wrap it like like you are making a fist. So when the tip hits your thumb being locked helps the saw from shooting back at you. If your thumb is riding on the handlebar then there is nothing to stop the saw.
I have many other solutions, but there are other threads for that.

 

[rb_in_va]

I though the best tip was to not cut with the backside of the tip. And also to stand to the left a bit while bucking. Am I wrong?

 

[stihlatit]

I would suggest do both.

 

[Spiderhole]

I though the best tip was to not cut with the backside of the tip. And also to stand to the left a bit while bucking. Am I wrong?

that's what the owners manual says! But I think that having your thumb around it probably isn't such a bad idea there either - that's what seperates us from monkeys right!?

 

[rb_in_va]

I would suggest do both.

Sweet! I passed the test!

 

[Tree Sling'r]

I though the best tip was to not cut with the backside of the tip. And also to stand to the left a bit while bucking. Am I wrong?

I have to underbuck much of the stuff I work with, therfore I use the back side of my tip all the time. And standing to the left is a gimme.
I am just talking about the proper way to hold a saw plays a major role in kickback. We could go one all night - like I said there are other threads for that.

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

I use one of those plastic tip guards you find on saws at Home Depot. :monkey:

 

[stihlatit]

Sweet! I passed the test!

With flying colours RB.

 

[asb151]

Read a lot on here about people and their fears of kick back.

The simplist solution is the way the saw is held by the top handle. Wrap your thumb, don't let it ride on the top handle, wrap it like like you are making a fist. So when the tip hits your thumb being locked helps the saw from shooting back at you. If your thumb is riding on the handlebar then there is nothing to stop the saw.
I have many other solutions, but there are other threads for that.

Good advice, though I can't remember having ever held a saw with my thumb riding on the top handle.

In the case of severe kickback your thumb won't stop it.

IMO, the best solution is total concentration on where the bar tip is at all times! Also, staying left to the plane of the cut....and of course PPE for when the above actions have failed.

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

In the case of severe kickback your thumb won't stop it.

I don't think he's saying it will. But it will help keep the saw from being knocked out of your hand because your thumb isn't around it. With your thumb on top, the saw can get kicked out backwards, pushing the whole saw towards you. If anyone knows how to handle a saw, Tree Sling'r would be one of them.

 

[JTinaTree]

Read a lot on here about people and their fears of kick back.

The simplist solution is the way the saw is held by the top handle. Wrap your thumb, don't let it ride on the top handle, wrap it like like you are making a fist. So when the tip hits your thumb being locked helps the saw from shooting back at you. If your thumb is riding on the handlebar then there is nothing to stop the saw.
I have many other solutions, but there are other threads for that.

I don't think holding your saw a certain way will stop kickback...When the bar nose hits a obstruction, it can move from your feet to your head in a half of second. My freind is a STIHL rep, and in the chainsaw saftey courses the company teaches, There is a instructor that takes a 440mag and intentionally makes the saw kick back. He siad you can not follow the saw with your naked eye it moves so fast. But I do agree that holding the saw in a proper manner will help you control it better.

 

[Tree Sling'r]

I don't think he's saying it will. But it will help keep the saw from being knocked out of your hand because your thumb isn't around it. With your thumb on top, the saw can get kicked out backwards, pushing the whole saw towards you. If anyone knows how to handle a saw, Tree Sling'r would be one of them.

Thanks FHCW, what I should have stated is that kick back happens, when "wrapping" your thumb - the consequences will be exceptionally less.
I run big saws with big bars and having my thumb wrapped, along with God given strength has saved my body on numerous occasions.
Did not mean for this to become a "he said - she said" just giving advice that was given to me the first time I ever picked up a saw. Do with it what you like.

 

[redprospector]

Treesling'r,
Thanks, this type of advice is valuable (if people will listen to it). It's the same thing I was told when I started, and has saved my bacon several times.

Stopping kickback is not the objective, it's being in full control when it does happen.

Andy

 

[tawilson]

Thanks FHCW, what I should have stated is that kick back happens, when "wrapping" your thumb - the consequences will be exceptionally less.
I run big saws with big bars and having my thumb wrapped, along with God given strength has saved my body on numerous occasions.
Did not mean for this to become a "he said - she said" just giving advice that was given to me the first time I ever picked up a saw. Do with it what you like.

Also holding this way will cause the chain brake to trip, if it goes that far. I've done about every stupid manuever there is, and a good grip on the saw has kept me handsome, as you can see. I honestly don't ever think about standing off to the side. I've seen it mentioned a couple times recently, and I'll be giving it some more thought this weekend.

 

[asb151]

Thanks FHCW, what I should have stated is that kick back happens, when "wrapping" your thumb - the consequences will be exceptionally less.

I agree with you, and like I said I never hold a saw any other way. I just wanted to make clear it is not a solution but it is good practice.

 

[smokechase II]

fatigue

Tree Sling'r:

How many hours do you cut a day? Six?

I had to work at it awhile about 30 years ago on the left hand thumb thing. Part of the problem was that Macs were poorly designed. Not just from the standpoint of cylinder heat to the gas tank, but the gas cap actually was partly in the way of your left thumb. Yes I know that you're talking about both thumbs, just that the left was my problem.

Fortunately I got chewed on by two decent cutters/teachers and that is probably a good part of the reason I haven't cut fabric nor flesh.

On the USFS sawyer evaluation forms we use in Oregon and Washington, there are three spots to make sure there is proper thumb placement; falling, bucking and limbing.

A Quick Caveat; there is kick back from the tip and there is the bar being pinched and either you get pulled toward the wood, (bottom of the bar cutting), or the saw is pushed back at you, (top of the bar cutting), when the saw bogs down.

I was taught not to cut with the top of the bar, (except for under bucking), but I cut that way all the time now. Someone want to chew me out on that? It does have the tendency of promoting the less desirable form of the pinched bar form of kickback.

The thumb thing is an important part of kickback avoidance.
1) Bar (tip primarily) management,
2) PPE,
3) Properly functioning chain brake, (check it at least daily - easy to do),
4) Thumbs,
5) Good fitness,
6) Understanding how your saw/bar/chain work in the wood you're cutting.

To all the learners, guess that means everybody, out there:
How your saw is set up can be a biggy in promoting a kick back event.

Now what have we missed?

 

[RiverRat2]

Great Stuff

That is some good info, Especially if you have some underbucking to do wich is almost all the time when limbing and cleaning up tops,

Thanks Slinger.,,,,

 

[Tree Sling'r]

You hit the nail on the head by stating "how your saw is set up."
Everything I do in the woods is reputiciaus (is that a word?) it is all second nature, so it is easy for me to understand what works. There is a technique to everything and smoothness is also second nature.
The only reason I wear chaps (inside) is because they make nealing much more comfy, the only reason I wear safty glasses is because mine are Oakley M Frames and I look good in them.
The only reason I wear gloves is because they keep my wedding ring from falling off, the only reason I wear ear plugs is because I can't hear the guy in the next strip over yelling to please cut him out of a buck and the only reason I wear a hard hat is because it is tradition.
Just joking, PPE is a good thing.

 

[046]

yup... PPE is a good thing!

knowing where your tip is at all times.
that and standing to the side

 

[Gearhead1]

Tree Sling'r, the rule about grabbing with your thumb wrapped around is dead on! That's the way I was taught from day one, and have never had kickback problems. Granted, I have felt the saw pushing back on me a time or two, but never have I had a saw actually kick out at me. I run saws both with and without chain brakes, and the only times I can recall the brake actuating were either if the flag caught some other branch, or if I inadvertanly bump it with my wrist.

I'd summarize chainsaw safety like this:

1. Hands: Keep both hands firmly on the saw, and keep your arms extended as much as possible.
2. Eyes: Keep your eyes on what you're cutting at all times. Watch where your hands and feet are!
3. Feet: Keep them away from the chain and out of the way of any falling or rolling logs. You've got to allow that sometimes a log will roll when you cut it free from some other part of the tree (right over your leg if its in the way). And wear steel toed boots! I know they have saved me from foot injuries on multiple occasions (I'm not just talking in the woods here).

Of course, there are many things left unsaid, such as clearing out the trash from your area of cutting, and having multiple escape paths for all felling, but I claim these as the foundation of safe forest work.