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Dadatwins

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Spring time is approaching in my area. One of the most popular trees/plants in the area is Crepe Myrtle http://www.clemson.edu/crapemyrtle/ Unfortunalty the common practice in this area and probably others is to lopp off the top of these trees and leave a "hat rack". Also known as topping.
This is the common form of form or 'pruning' by most landscapers in my area. Or course the landscapers say this is the proper way to prune them since they bloom on new growth. It is also a great form of annual income in my opinion, but does not promote the general health of the plant.
I say prune for structure, crossing branching, watersprouts, and do not top them like any other trees. Living in a community that has common property maintained by contracted landscapers who top the crepe myrtles every year, it drives me batty trying to convince my customers that this form of pruning is wrong and only promotes poor structure. I also tell them that once you start the pattern off 'crepe murder' it will be required every year, or use the proper pruning methods and it will last for 2-3 year cycles and save them $$$. Does anyone else deal with this and how do you handle it. I guess the real question is when will the landscape community adopt the same pruning methods that tree people use so we can all work together.
 
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Landscrapers...LOL!

Have you considered going and talking with them? You might educate them.

Or the next time it comes around you might call the Berkley sitters in. I'm sure they'll be out of a job and looking for somewhere to go by then. :dizzy:

Seriously, the first step might be all the steps you need in your area.

It may drive you batty, but at least you get the word out by educating your customers.
 
we have a lot of those in our area. on one nice big maple the hacks left a about a 1' wide x 10' long bark rip out :angry2: :angry2: :angry2: :angry2: other than a wretched looking tree (or stub should I say):angry2:
 
Same thing here in PA Dadatwins, why do they do that? Ive sent brochures to alot of businesses that have this kind of work done by landscapers letting them know more harm than good is being done!

Sure enough the next year the same landscape co. doing the same type of trimming, most here dont care about anything but saving a buck!!

Homeowners/biz`s; proper tree care= more money....nah Ill pay $100 to have a hatrack in my front yard.........It`ll come back!!

How do you change CHEAP?........someone let me know, that way I can get more work!

LXT................
 
Don't just include landscapers....many in this business will top a tree with no problem if it is a paying job.

Unfortunately, like no other business I have seen....the true professionals are rarely consulted and even more rare if their advice is followed. I am to the point where I almost have to give up the profession or do as the competition is doing...i.e. top trees. There is little or no chance of me avoiding it completely in this rural area. So what is a guy to do....give in to the hacks and admit defeat?
 
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Pointto the epidemic of powdery mildew disease that follows crepe murder. There are no sprays effective for some of the new stains that have evolved.

I don't like your program of pruning them though. You must reduce to get good blooms. I usually go out 2 nodes past the last year's cuts. My own crepes I have not reduced at all and their bloom is really sparse--if i had the time i would reduce every branch.

teamtree that is the answer--learn proper reduction and sell it. I have NO problem selling good work, because i can point to books and pictures that explain why good tree work will work well for them.

soil mgt also key.
 
I don't like your program of pruning them though. You must reduce to get good blooms. I usually go out 2 nodes past the last year's cuts. My own crepes I have not reduced at all and their bloom is really sparse--if i had the time i would reduce every branch.
In this area I have seen the same blooms on both the topped version and the thinned version, which is not many. Persistant drought I believe is that problem. As for educating, I have given the community board the flyers and other information related and the response is "we do it every year and they always come back so pretty" Of course they do not see the decay and callous tissue on these cut ends as the tree struggles to keep growing. Crepe myrtle are very hardy and really can take some punishment. My point really is wishing the landscape community would work with tree people. From tree and plant installation on up to pruning, most are on a different page.
 
My point really is wishing the landscape community would work with tree people.
If wishes were horses, beggars would ride.:spam:

How much does the tree community work with landscapers? So much easier to beyotch, which gets us less than nowhere.

I've tried to get onto landscapers' programs at their conferences, but no go--yet. Like tree programs, it's the same preachers and the same choirs--both very insular.

They have newsletters--how about submitting something to those on planting, pruning etc.?
 
I wouldnt go the landscape newsletter route, got to the city, borough, twp, etc.. & try to get a shade tree council established, see about them becoming a Tree City USA recognized area, 2 twp`s & 1 City have done so in my area.

This usually requires them to have a shade tree council, permits for work to be done, etc.. at first I thought what a PITA, but Now I realize it has helped me by keeping, landscapers,grass cutters,roofers,handymen, etc.. off the referral list which gives more work to the true tree care guys out there.

Its a lot of work but like teamtree says if you dont beat em you gotta join em, unless you admit defeat, kinda sucks when the hacks take over!! the route mentioned above I think can help greatly, I embrace it every chance I get & promote it!! If it will save our profession its worth it!

LXT..........
 
Pointto the epidemic of powdery mildew disease that follows crepe murder. There are no sprays effective for some of the new stains that have evolved.

I don't like your program of pruning them though. You must reduce to get good blooms. I usually go out 2 nodes past the last year's cuts. My own crepes I have not reduced at all and their bloom is really sparse--if i had the time i would reduce every branch.

teamtree that is the answer--learn proper reduction and sell it. I have NO problem selling good work, because i can point to books and pictures that explain why good tree work will work well for them.

soil mgt also key.

Pollarding is also a great way to maximize flowering. I recall an article by Ed Gilman where they did research on the decay formed in crape mrytle when topped vs. pollarding.
 
My .02 worth:
My company is 85% LA, and I need to keep good relations with that side. They are reasonable and tend to clean up their acts when spoken to civilly. Crape Myrtles are a particular chalenge, though. They grow so fast in some areas that they have to be managed harder than an average shade or ornamental tree. If you can maintain good relationships with the owners, POLLARDING works a treat, as was mentioned above. It does require attention every single year and looks kinda funky in the off season, until you see how nicely it sprouts out. Ed Gillman has a killer web site for educating yourself, and everybody should take a look sometime: hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/pruning/
 
I have to pollard mulberry up here, or it will get out of hand. Quite often you get on a blue collar property where remove and replace is not an option, so you pollard in winter.

I've handpruned many hedges just because it was easier/faster then motorized shears. On woody stems you just have to come back through an trim the ragged ends anyways.

1-3 year pollards can work for some people.

Guy, could it be light issues also with your trees? I remember your yard in Apex being rather low light.
 
Pointto the epidemic of powdery mildew disease that follows crepe murder. There are no sprays effective for some of the new stains that have evolved.

I don't like your program of pruning them though. You must reduce to get good blooms. I usually go out 2 nodes past the last year's cuts. My own crepes I have not reduced at all and their bloom is really sparse--if i had the time i would reduce every branch.

teamtree that is the answer--learn proper reduction and sell it. I have NO problem selling good work, because i can point to books and pictures that explain why good tree work will work well for them.

soil mgt also key.


i practically take a library with me....around here (rural area) price is the only thing people look at...not the service.....
 
team,it sucks being in an area where people won't pay well for good tree work. Are there cases of topped trees that failed or died that you can show people?

I admit I'm spoiled here.
Guy, could it be light issues also with your trees? I remember your yard in Apex being rather low light.
These crepes are the ones lining my driveway; full blazing sun, and ok soil conditions. I think I'll fert the crap out of them soon and see if that helps. O and I've had it with being a horse landlord; I'm planting half the pasture to orchard trees. :)

I think pollarded crepes look pretty groovy; key is to have the ends at different heights so there is air movement and longer bloom area. Best of both worlds really--all we gotta do is show the ladscrapers how to make the cuts at the same place every year; not too great a challenge really.
 
Pruning Myrtles??

Hey, just in time!

I was looking at a job today and there are several small Crepe Myrtles, I'm not that familiar with them as far as the pruning/flowering cycle goes. They are no higher than 6-8' well branched but have gotten a bit out of control. They need thinning and reducing, not much overall.
Question, they are bare now, if I prune then in the next week or so, will they flower this year? Client has her garden on show in May...

Nice job, mature garden, Magnolia, Mahogany, Albizzia, Allspice, Cedar, a sympathetic client...at least a week's work!

I sympathize with the whole untrained landscape maintenance crew vs Arborist...hack jobs abound here, slap up a ladder, one hand the 200t and let'er rip...infuriating!
 
Hey, just in time!

I was looking at a job today and there are several small Crepe Myrtles, I'm not that familiar with them as far as the pruning/flowering cycle goes. They are no higher than 6-8' well branched but have gotten a bit out of control. They need thinning and reducing, not much overall.
Question, they are bare now, if I prune then in the next week or so, will they flower this year? Client has her garden on show in May...

Nice job, mature garden, Magnolia, Mahogany, Albizzia, Allspice, Cedar, a sympathetic client...at least a week's work!

I sympathize with the whole untrained landscape maintenance crew vs Arborist...hack jobs abound here, slap up a ladder, one hand the 200t and let'er rip...infuriating!

This site has some good pruning info
http://www.clemson.edu/crapemyrtle/pruninginstructions.htm

Flowering in May probably not going to happen, we are on similiar latitude, they usually leaf out late and stay flowered into fall. You can clip old flowers off and get a second or third set of buds also.
 

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