Blakesmaster
Addicted to ArboristSite
The picture wouldn't show on my 'puter. Oh well.
Here's a pic of the one I made md. New England Hi Vee with a retired beeline prussic and old micro. Works real slick.
Let's talk lanyards: Who makes their own?
- Thread starter tree md
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The picture wouldn't show on my 'puter. Oh well.
Here's a pic of the one I made md. New England Hi Vee with a retired beeline prussic and old micro. Works real slick.
tree md
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yeah, that looks pretty slick Blakes.
OD, that is the pic I was thinking about. Just wish I could splice like Ghillie. Oh well, I guess a double fisherman will work just as well..
I've got all kinds of snaps, swivels and odds and ends to play around with. I plan to just play around with different setups and see what tickles my fancy.
OD, that is the pic I was thinking about. Just wish I could splice like Ghillie. Oh well, I guess a double fisherman will work just as well..
I've got all kinds of snaps, swivels and odds and ends to play around with. I plan to just play around with different setups and see what tickles my fancy.
Blakesmaster
Addicted to ArboristSite
Something to think about.
If you don't have spliced eyes on your prussic you may want to terminate the knots straight to your D ring. I've seen guys do it that way as well. Personally, I like using the tri-action 'biner so if I want to take it off for whatever reason I still can. I never do...but I could if I wanted to.
If you don't have spliced eyes on your prussic you may want to terminate the knots straight to your D ring. I've seen guys do it that way as well. Personally, I like using the tri-action 'biner so if I want to take it off for whatever reason I still can. I never do...but I could if I wanted to.
tree md
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yeah, I have 3 or 4 triple action biners. I'm sure I can play around and make something work.
Thanks for the tip.
outofmytree
Addicted to ArboristSite
My offsider is playing around with the same set up. Man it is hard to believe I resisted the change from mechanical rope grab to prussik lanyard for so long. Great set up!
You guys ever think about using a maillon rapide instead of a biner for the link? Slower to take on and off but then its slower to take on and off...... If you get my drift. :biggrinbounce2:
You guys ever think about using a maillon rapide instead of a biner for the link? Slower to take on and off but then its slower to take on and off...... If you get my drift. :biggrinbounce2:
ozzy42
Addicted to ArboristSite
I use a maillon rapide [some people calls it a maillon rapide,I calls it a screw link.hruu huumm] to tend slack on my lanyard.
Works as good as any pulley ,at a fraction of the cost.
SINGLE-JACK
ArboristSite Guru
Double Ended, Double Adjusting (DEDA) Lanyard based upon some development work by Tom Dunlap and TheTreeSpyder. It's essentially two lanyards "joined" around the back.
Double Ended, Double Adjusting (DEDA) Lanyard
Virtually all the lanyard length is available to either side. A more versatile alternative to two separate lanyards - uses less hardware.
DEDA LANYARD END DETAIL
Rope Snap
21' of 7/16" Sterling HTP
TFL's with thimbles on Snaps
Distel Friction Hitch
9mm Sterling Accessory Cord
DFL's on Distel hitches
3/8" SS Clevis safety wired
... secures & tends Distel hitch
All rope ends dipped in Plasti Dip
All loose ends seized
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Blakesmaster
Addicted to ArboristSite
That looks like a whole lotta extra loops of stuff to hang up with no improvement on a two lanyard setup. You could very easily use a rope snap and a 'biner ( or a clevis if you like a more permanent attachment ) on two separate lanyards with no additional equipment. I won't even climb with two lanyards. My climb line will work as a second one if I see the need.
SINGLE-JACK
ArboristSite Guru
My apologies for not making an obvious "improvement" a little easier to understand. You, certainly, deserve some more rep for being an HA, but, alas I had already done so, too much. Anyway, it's NOT my idea - I respect Tom Dunlap's work way too highly to find any fault with it - in fact, I've incorporated it and found it extremely beneficial. But ... each to his/her own ...
Blakesmaster
Addicted to ArboristSite
My apologies for not making an obvious "improvement" a little easier to understand. You, certainly, deserve some more rep for being an HA, but, alas I had already done so, too much. Anyway, it's NOT my idea - I respect Tom Dunlap's work way too highly to find any fault with it - in fact, I've incorporated it and found it extremely beneficial. But ... each to his/her own ...
I read in your first post who came up with the concept, no need to reiterate. I still don't see any benefit whatsoever in the design. It's an addition of gear that is unnecessary for a production arborist. A neat concept, sure, but not practical.
Blakesmaster
Addicted to ArboristSite
There's gear for those that climb for their job...
and gear for those that talk about climbing like it's there job.
see the difference?
and gear for those that talk about climbing like it's there job.
see the difference?
Blakesmaster
Addicted to ArboristSite
lol
lync
ArboristSite Operative
I would shy away from terminating my lanyard prussic directly to my hip ring
Almost daily I find myself shifting the beaner that has the prussic to my bridge, and using it as a second climbing line. Those hip rings put a lot of weight on your back and kidneys when the lanyard is holding a lot of your body weight. Letting the seat take some of the weight is much more comfortable.
Almost daily I find myself shifting the beaner that has the prussic to my bridge, and using it as a second climbing line. Those hip rings put a lot of weight on your back and kidneys when the lanyard is holding a lot of your body weight. Letting the seat take some of the weight is much more comfortable.
tree md
Addicted to ArboristSite
Double Ended, Double Adjusting (DEDA) Lanyard based upon some development work by Tom Dunlap and TheTreeSpyder. It's essentially two lanyards "joined" around the back.
Double Ended, Double Adjusting (DEDA) Lanyard
Virtually all the lanyard length is available to either side. A more versatile alternative to two separate lanyards - uses less hardware.
DEDA LANYARD END DETAIL
Rope Snap
21' of 7/16" Sterling HTP
TFL's with thimbles on Snaps
Distel Friction Hitch
9mm Sterling Accessory Cord
DFL's on Distel hitches
3/8" SS Clevis safety wired
... secures & tends Distel hitch
All rope ends dipped in Plasti Dip
All loose ends seized
Pretty slick looking setup there. I have been learning from Kenny and Tom for many years now. Tom's brother Jim has been a big help and has a wealth of knowledge as well.
I climbed on one or two of those old weaver's for many years. Still have an old wore out weaver hanging up in the shop. They didn't make them so comfortable when I started out though. The wide padded back was a huge improvement.
SINGLE-JACK
ArboristSite Guru
Pretty slick looking setup there. I have been learning from Kenny and Tom for many years now. Tom's brother Jim has been a big help and has a wealth of knowledge as well.
I climbed on one or two of those old weaver's for many years. Still have an old wore out weaver hanging up in the shop. They didn't make them so comfortable when I started out though. The wide padded back was a huge improvement.
Thanks! That Weaver's pretty new but still have my first. It's even got some hemp laid rope still on it - yeah, I'm that old ... only climb when I want, now ... this new setup is working well for me.
1I'dJak
ArboristSite Operative
I've got the steel core prussik on a double end 15' steel core...but I still use my macrocender... nothing beats it for pure speed... you can pound up the tree and suck tighter as you're going up...no stopping...whistlin up the tree till the legs give or you hit a branch.. But you gotta take out the little springy deal that keeps the tension ...on that's the key...
SINGLE-JACK
ArboristSite Guru
A tip from an old timer
Blakesmaster -
With sincere respect for you and your work:
If you really want to show off, you've really GOT to get some higher quality pictures with some clean gear.
see the difference? It shows respect for the OP and the Forum.
Here's another example:
What? ... are you standing at 10 ft?
... any groundie could be standing there
... hell, my grandson could be standing there.
Come on, we know you can do better. It would have been much more impressive if you had posted a picture of you working the crown from earlier in the day; with high, frontal sunlight - sky in the background. Like this:
(if you look close, it's the same tree in that close-up you posted of me at 60'+)
see the difference? No big deal, just more impressive than a 'stump shot'
You're definitely a professional with important ownership responsibilities in your business. Your image is a big part of your business and career. Good photo's and civility are a big part of your image.
I sincerely hope you will accept this as friendly and constructively helpful. You can have the last post - if you must. But, I'm through posting. We've derailed this thread enough.
MY APOLOGIES TO TREE MD!
With highest regards,
Jack
Blakesmaster -
With sincere respect for you and your work:
If you really want to show off, you've really GOT to get some higher quality pictures with some clean gear.
...
...
see the difference?
see the difference? It shows respect for the OP and the Forum.
Here's another example:
lol
What? ... are you standing at 10 ft?
... any groundie could be standing there
... hell, my grandson could be standing there.
Come on, we know you can do better. It would have been much more impressive if you had posted a picture of you working the crown from earlier in the day; with high, frontal sunlight - sky in the background. Like this:
(if you look close, it's the same tree in that close-up you posted of me at 60'+)
see the difference? No big deal, just more impressive than a 'stump shot'
You're definitely a professional with important ownership responsibilities in your business. Your image is a big part of your business and career. Good photo's and civility are a big part of your image.
I sincerely hope you will accept this as friendly and constructively helpful. You can have the last post - if you must. But, I'm through posting. We've derailed this thread enough.
MY APOLOGIES TO TREE MD!
With highest regards,
Jack
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Blakesmaster
Addicted to ArboristSite
Point taken for disrupting the thread, sorry 'bout that, md.
My point to you, SJ, had a lot more to do with dirty gear and sub par pics than you realize. You are right that they don't appear that great as a selling point to customers but that wasn't what I was going for. A production climber has dirty gear because he uses it and photos are generally an afterthought not the main goal. But let's talk about that lanyard of yours.
TheTreeSpider is a published author in our industry as I assume Tom Dunlap is as well ( I've sure heard his name kicked around enough ) and I have no reason to disrespect their work and can only assume they know a hell of a lot more than me about my profession. Their names attached to a product will get me to look closer at it but their assessment of said product will not be the sole basis of my assessment. I look at the piece of equipment and form my own opinions based on my personal experience and what I know that my profession demands of it's gear. So let's have a look again.
You claimed in your first post about this set up that it " uses less hardware " than two separate lanyards. However this lanyard uses two rope snaps, two clevises, two friction hitches and a very long piece of rope. A conventional lanyard set up uses two rope snaps, two 'biners ( or you could put clevises there if you want it permanent or even tie your lanyard to the D rings for more permanence and even less hardware ) , two friction hitches and some rope. One could very easily make 2 lanyards out of a 21 foot piece of rope so we'll not count that as additional gear on a two lanyard set up. Not to mention that the rope that you loose behind your back is not part of the "workable" length of the lanyard. Assuming that stretch of rope behind your back is about 24 inches you essentially lose that amount of line. Boom. Added weight.
Now, the one benefit you did mention was that "virtually all lanyard length is available from one side." This indeed is a good benefit. With this set up you can have one lanyard very long and one very short which would be helpful in some positioning situations but it begs the question why not just carry one long lanyard and one short lanyard with you on the climb? They weigh less, as I already outlined, and it gives you the option of leaving one on the ground if unneeded on the climb.
And my final point...loops, loops, loops.
As any production climber will tell you getting stuck on a branch or nub is a frustrating, annoying and downright dangerous situation. The more loops you have the more chance you have for them to catch on something. A loop of lanyard hanging down on your saw side is sure to entangled with your saw at some point during the climb. I've had webbing loops slip around my feet from time to time when twisting and stretching for a certain position. I've had loops from my saw lanyard hang up on nubs and stop me mid swing. The list can go on and on about how loops of rope can get in the way of an efficient climb.
So, in closing, I've determined that your two so called benefits are not realistically beneficial and moreover, the entire design is a hazard to a productive tree climber.
THE END
My point to you, SJ, had a lot more to do with dirty gear and sub par pics than you realize. You are right that they don't appear that great as a selling point to customers but that wasn't what I was going for. A production climber has dirty gear because he uses it and photos are generally an afterthought not the main goal. But let's talk about that lanyard of yours.
TheTreeSpider is a published author in our industry as I assume Tom Dunlap is as well ( I've sure heard his name kicked around enough ) and I have no reason to disrespect their work and can only assume they know a hell of a lot more than me about my profession. Their names attached to a product will get me to look closer at it but their assessment of said product will not be the sole basis of my assessment. I look at the piece of equipment and form my own opinions based on my personal experience and what I know that my profession demands of it's gear. So let's have a look again.
You claimed in your first post about this set up that it " uses less hardware " than two separate lanyards. However this lanyard uses two rope snaps, two clevises, two friction hitches and a very long piece of rope. A conventional lanyard set up uses two rope snaps, two 'biners ( or you could put clevises there if you want it permanent or even tie your lanyard to the D rings for more permanence and even less hardware ) , two friction hitches and some rope. One could very easily make 2 lanyards out of a 21 foot piece of rope so we'll not count that as additional gear on a two lanyard set up. Not to mention that the rope that you loose behind your back is not part of the "workable" length of the lanyard. Assuming that stretch of rope behind your back is about 24 inches you essentially lose that amount of line. Boom. Added weight.
Now, the one benefit you did mention was that "virtually all lanyard length is available from one side." This indeed is a good benefit. With this set up you can have one lanyard very long and one very short which would be helpful in some positioning situations but it begs the question why not just carry one long lanyard and one short lanyard with you on the climb? They weigh less, as I already outlined, and it gives you the option of leaving one on the ground if unneeded on the climb.
And my final point...loops, loops, loops.
As any production climber will tell you getting stuck on a branch or nub is a frustrating, annoying and downright dangerous situation. The more loops you have the more chance you have for them to catch on something. A loop of lanyard hanging down on your saw side is sure to entangled with your saw at some point during the climb. I've had webbing loops slip around my feet from time to time when twisting and stretching for a certain position. I've had loops from my saw lanyard hang up on nubs and stop me mid swing. The list can go on and on about how loops of rope can get in the way of an efficient climb.
So, in closing, I've determined that your two so called benefits are not realistically beneficial and moreover, the entire design is a hazard to a productive tree climber.
THE END
Two lanyards would come with 4 snaps (total). I think that is the point SJ was making.
I think hiding the extra length of rope from the "2nd lanyard" on both sides of the belt would be a pretty big advantage if you were just using one lanyard. A real long lanyard does get in the way when you are not using it.
Conversely, if you could combined two lanyards into one, it might be possible to keep a longer lanyard available through the combination than you might prefer to carry otherwise.
I haven't yet tried out the system pictured, but I plan on it when I finally get some work to do. I haven't even started my chipper for 2 months. NOTHING to do but starve or shovel snow.
I think hiding the extra length of rope from the "2nd lanyard" on both sides of the belt would be a pretty big advantage if you were just using one lanyard. A real long lanyard does get in the way when you are not using it.
Conversely, if you could combined two lanyards into one, it might be possible to keep a longer lanyard available through the combination than you might prefer to carry otherwise.
I haven't yet tried out the system pictured, but I plan on it when I finally get some work to do. I haven't even started my chipper for 2 months. NOTHING to do but starve or shovel snow.
tree md
Addicted to ArboristSite
My thoughts exactly. I'd like to have a long lanyard to use when applicable but it would more than likely be on the ground for most of my climbs. I could see it being a real benefit to have in a tree where you could throw it up in an overhead limb for a particularly long limb walk. I can't see it replacing my wirecore flip line or climbing line though. Would also be cool to have when you are working a really big spar.
I have been lucky enough to do at least 1 job a month since November but it has been a slow Winter for sure. It has been better than last Winter though. I am lucky to have referrals and a large condo complex to take care of. They always have something for me to do. Now is the time to play around with stuff like making lanyards and whatnot. Also a great time to try new techniques (if the snow ever melts) or continuing your education.
I am reminded of the first year that I did tree work. I spent that Winter camped out in a Jayco pop up camper living off of deer meat and fish that I caught. Me and the guy I worked with lived outdoors all Winter. We read books for entertainment. It always gets tough in the Winter time even when you do put a little something back. Most will never get rich and this work is not for the faint of heart. But there is always the Spring. Things should start picking up this month after folks have time to recover from their Christmas spending.
Hang in there and Best of luck all.
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