Lickety Split Log Splitter Problem

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super3,
after studying the PDF file a little I'm trying to understand the hand lever and return latch assembly. I noticed on your picture I do not have the part that goes the opposite way (points towards the rear) of the release mechanism for lowering splitter to the ground. I have a spring and thin wire that goes behind my oil tank and then wire is connected to a small adjustable chain. It pulls on my hand lever back all the time. So you have to hold hand lever forward all the time. once I get my cylinder issue fixed can I just unhook that spring and then lever will stay forward all the up till cylinder kicks oit back to return?
 
Pics of that on yours.

This is what locks the lever in the forward position, it breaks over center.

P1020271 (Small).JPG

It is probably wore out in all the holes, mine was. Either make bushings or drill to the next size bigger.
 
Don't unhook the spring, you need that lever to lock in like it us designed to do.
 
Super3,
Got picture, your on spot all my pins are worn bad. The one on the ibeam is really sloppy. Don't understa20170203_051624.jpg nd what that is. Just a pin that someone peened over. You linkage definitely sits different then mine. Are any of the points suppose to be tight and not pivot. Your's is upright were mine has like falling down.
 
When you unbolt the handle to repair it flip it up the right way.

Hardware has multi size bushings to use to tighten things up on there.
 
when did they change the oil specs? always thought on hydro oil Higher number thiner material. Which is why I run 56 in my snowplow systems. If i ran 32 it would take 30 min. in sub zero weather to go from left to right. ( ya over statement)
Aw32- if the spliter sits out in real cold weather,can be a ***** to get it started unless there is a clutch system on the pump.
Mine sits in heated shop so I just run aw32 all year.

Lower number is thinner. Aw32 is about 10wt, aw46 about 20.
 
Going to breakfast and then to farm supply store for some oil. Was trying to wait for filter to arrive to change it then add. Checked oil last night it looks real good. No foam ,looked great in color. Saw my linkage has worn so much that it has spun in the down position, (thanks to super3' picture. So going to top it off today and check linkage out and see if it works
 
Well guys,yes it was the oil level. A little low. Also figured out the automatic cycle lever. Thanks to super 3 sending me a picture of his linkage. Mine had flipped over and hung down. After some kick back handle adjustment and throttle adjustment on the hand lever control. Put new filter on and she rock's. Shifts good from high to low.
Thanks everyone who chimed in to help me on this.
 
Good to hear it. Gotta keep these oldies runnin' Super3 helped me a bunch with my machine, he's a great guy with lots of knowledge about these splitters. I split a cord with mine yesterday and I love this thing.
 
Sound great,I'm waiting for sun up to pull mine out and give it a work out today.
EXCITED,like a little kid.
Thanks for your help
 
you have air in the cylinder. you will need to fill the oil reservoir and bleed the system. if the reservoir is full of oil but its really foamy then id venture to guess you have a loose fitting or line on the suction side of the pump introducing air in the system. in any case, the air needs to be removed and the cylinder bled out. if your oil is foamy id suggest draining it (probably due for new fluid anyway) and putting in new. ISO 32 for cold weather only, ISO 46 for a mix of summer and winter or just summer. AW 32 or 46 is the same thing just AW instead of ISO. if you dont use it much in the winter any universal hydraulic oil will work. if its winter only, go for the thinner ISO 32. pretty simple to bleed the air by just running the ram full extend and retract a few times then shutting it off to let the air bubbles collect. the next day, check/fill the oil again and cycle it a few more times. then try it on some wood

EDIT: if the oil is full and not foamy but it has been sitting the air will have rose to the surface and the bubbles popped leaving just oil. check for a loose fitting or hose clamp and repair as needed
How do you bleed the air out of the double one way cylinders on the Lickity Log Splitters?
 
After I replaced the cylinder o-rings on mine all I did was make sure there was enough oil in reservoir and cycled the ram a half dozen times with no load. The air should purge to the reservoir, just make sure the oil level is still full after cycling. I used caution when splitting the first few pieces in case there was still some trapped air but all was well.
 

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