like I stated from the beging your service drop is 110. now if you want to show me how much you really know what would the voltage be at the meter if your service loop was 385 feet and you were using 6 gauge copper wire. assuming the voltage was 115volts at the tap.
The best electrician in the world cannot answer that question. Here is why:
Voltage across a conductor changes according to the amperage traveling down the wire. If you hooked up the 385' wire to the pole (115v) and put a voltmeter across the terminals, you would get 115 volts (using your numbers) at the end of the wire just like you do at the pole.
Now hook up a 200 amp service to that wire, and run a stove, a 5 hp air compressor, a welder, and all the lights in the building. The electric current traveling down the wire has gone from nothing to 200 amps. Measured voltage at the meter will go down according to the resistance of the wire AND the current traveling on the wire.
Knowing only the length and gauge of the wire is not enough.
BTW: in other posts you keep referring to 110v on a common line drop. Many years ago, I think household current was commonly 110 volts. I'm pretty sure that it is almost standardized at 120v in the USA.
There are TWO hot wires coming into the house, each carrying 120v. Since this is AC (alternating current), each of the wires is carrying 120v to ground. HOWEVER! You need to understand that each of the two hot wires has an opposite polarity from the other. The voltage in an opposite direction, so one wire is pushing voltage (-) while the other is pulling (+), so the two voltages add up to 240v. Then they reverse polarity, and the current changes direction. 60 times per second!
In your house, most appliances are hooked up to just one hot wire and the neutral, so you only get 120v. The stove, the air conditioning unit, and other bigger appliances need more electricity, so they get it by connecting to both hot wires and running on the 240 volts between the two hot wires.
You can see this best on your stove: it is wired 240, but the oven light and the clock run on just 120 volts. These little devices don't need much electricity, so they are only attached to one leg of the electric service to the stove. If you detach the neutral, the stove will still heat up, but the light bulb and clock won't come on. (probably not true for modern electronically controlled stoves)
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