Links cracking, ARCHER chain

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The Millstead
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Second one I found in the past few weeks on 2 different loops iv made. Archer ripping chain.

.404
.063

Anyone else this happening too when milling? I mean Im running it hard. But seriously?? Cracking links….??

A 3120XS and decently sizes logs. Last one this chain did yesterday was a 44” diameter red oak.

Dang near a brand new loop.

Iv got a roll of oregon ripping chain to go pick up. Stuff was expensive but if the links dont break its worth it.

IMG_4355.jpeg
 
I've heard of the product, but is Archer chain an oem Chinese brand, or just made there?

Is that cracking more likely due to heat treating issues, the type/grade of steel, or something else?
 
I've heard of the product, but is Archer chain an oem Chinese brand, or just made there?

Is that cracking more likely due to heat treating issues, the type/grade of steel, or something else?
I think…..It is an Australian company That uses “Japanese steel” (their advertising says that) but they might be assembled in china. They have US distributors.

I dont know exactly why its happening. First time iv ever seen it is with this brand chain. Iv got a message out to them. You may be on to something with the heat treating. Both times they cracked thru the rivet hole like that. Cracking THRU a hole, both sides.
 
The chain in the picture looks dull.
No, its not bad. The last sharpening had had done only ONE 44” diameter 10’ long red oak slabs. I can get 2, sometimes 3 slabs before each sharpening with an oak that big. But, that is what im doing next after cleaning it. Sharpening for the next milling job on Monday.
I agree - and not much gullet. Is this common for ripping chain? I just regular chain for the little bit of milling I did.
Gullet is not as important with ripping chain. Tho it is still important. That chain is basically brand new. That is the shape of the gullet from the manufacturer. That chain has only been touched up 3 times with a granberg bar mount grinder. That type of grinder takes very little off the cutter each time. As I usually do, I will make the gullet deeper when it goes on the bench mount sharpener today.

So maybe about 7-8 slabs max and 3 sharpenings.
 
Even the rivet itself is deformed/dinged in/rolled over some.

And that's not the master link, correct?


My guess would be the link made contact with one of the two nails and bolt or multiples.

But then you say the other chain which didn't hit any objects is also cracking. Is that rivet also deformed?

You made up these loops or were pre-made purchases?
 
Even the rivet itself is deformed/dinged in/rolled over some.

And that's not the master link, correct?


My guess would be the link made contact with one of the two nails and bolt or multiples.

But then you say the other chain which didn't hit any objects is also cracking. Is that rivet also deformed?

You made up these loops or were pre-made purchases?
I made the loops. 168DL .404

That is the first thing I checked because it was what I thought might have happened. They are not the master links.

Good eye in the rivet. You are right. It looks a bit deformed. Only that one tho. The bottom you can see the 2 flared out edges.

I DID find on the this roll a Drive link that the manufacturer ran their riveter into the side of. Right in between two rivets. Had to fix that too. Never took a pic. I was in a hurry to fix it and get to work.
 
No, its not bad. The last sharpening had had done only ONE 44” diameter 10’ long red oak slabs. I can get 2, sometimes 3 slabs before each sharpening with an oak that big. But, that is what im doing next after cleaning it. Sharpening for the next milling job on Monday.

Gullet is not as important with ripping chain. Tho it is still important. That chain is basically brand new. That is the shape of the gullet from the manufacturer. That chain has only been touched up 3 times with a granberg bar mount grinder. That type of grinder takes very little off the cutter each time. As I usually do, I will make the gullet deeper when it goes on the bench mount sharpener today.

So maybe about 7-8 slabs max and 3 sharpenings.
Sorry to derail the topic, but what is the importance of the gullet ? I mostly use a file holder to sharpen which helps me keep the right height, but doesn’t create much gullet. Occasionally I will free hand file to get more gullet, but not sure of the importance?
 
The driver near the cracked tie strap looks to misshaped. Hopefully Archer sends you some presets and tie straps to fix.
Are you seeing the water drop on the tip of the driver? The chain is wet so there is water drops all over it. That drive link if you zoom in has a drop of water right on the tip.

Or were you seeing something else im missing?
 
Sorry to derail the topic, but what is the importance of the gullet ? I mostly use a file holder to sharpen which helps me keep the right height, but doesn’t create much gullet. Occasionally I will free hand file to get more gullet, but not sure of the importance?

You can space out the file for more gullet , by putting a thin piece of paper/matchbook cover/magazine cover, between the file and the holder. Don't overdo it, or too much hook.
 
Looks dinged by metal you hit. Regardless of how much other damage was caused, if you admit to hitting metal it's hard to blame anything on the chain being poor quality. I've massacred teeth on some .404 Archer chain hitting metal without cracking a link, but it's all the luck of the draw how you hit nails and the like.

For the record, Archer is simply an Australian company name for an exclusively China-made product using Japanese alloy steel. This is fairly common among most chain manufacturers now. Like the differences in most China manufacturing these days, price point is dependent on levels of quality control. With Archer you're getting a decent quality chain for a very low price, but they probably don't do a lot of quality control over what goes out, so there are likely more occasional flawed ones than with Oregon. Otherwise these days I don't know that Oregon is producing much better a quality of chain. I've never had a materials/design problem with any Archer chain I've used yet.
 
Looks dinged by metal you hit. Regardless of how much other damage was caused, if you admit to hitting metal it's hard to blame anything on the chain being poor quality. I've massacred teeth on some .404 Archer chain hitting metal without cracking a link, but it's all the luck of the draw how you hit nails and the like.

For the record, Archer is simply an Australian company name for an exclusively China-made product using Japanese alloy steel. This is fairly common among most chain manufacturers now. Like the differences in most China manufacturing these days, price point is dependent on levels of quality control. With Archer you're getting a decent quality chain for a very low price, but they probably don't do a lot of quality control over what goes out, so there are likely more occasional flawed ones than with Oregon. Otherwise these days I don't know that Oregon is producing much better a quality of chain. I've never had a materials/design problem with any Archer chain I've used yet.

Yeah, it's common for Chinese companies to use a western name to appeal to western markets and customers.
 
Yeah, it's common for Chinese companies to use a western name to appeal to western markets and customers.
I did a little more research as I wasn't clear on how much Archer was just a name or a company with any history in Australia. (For example, GB which used to do all their manufacturing in Australia, outsources a fair bit to China now but still of outstanding quality.) Turns out Archer is owned by PMD International, an Australian company which also produces the labels Mako (aftermarket chainsaw parts) and Harvester. There are some posts from 11-12 years ago on here of the Aussies being pretty impressed with Archer for a Chinese product. If the chain worked well on rock-like Aussie hardwoods as the Aussies posting seemed to feel it did, that's kind of a gold standard for handling the toughest wood and conditions. I don't think they had any history previous to being made in China, though. Been around about 15 years I think. But only really started selling much in the US about 5-6 years ago. From PMD International's website - "PMD commenced as a Chinese trading company in July 2007 and was established to offer high quality internationally made products to the outdoor power industry, including providing a wide range of parts and accessories for chainsaws, lawnmowers, and brush cutters to our customer base." Like you say, standard model, Chinese trading company that creates or buys Western brand names to sell products under.
 
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