List of Upgrades to Vermeer SC252

[stumper63]

Jeff,

I don't know what you base your experience your conclusions on but I have had a very remarkable experience with my 2003 Vermeer 252. Sure, it won't outcut a higher horsepower machine, not the issue. My machine has almost 3900 hours on it with the same Kohler 25 hp engine, never touched the engine other than religious maintenance. Starts up every day, day in, day out. NEVER has not started right up.

Some on this thread complain about the 3-wheeled machine but I LOVE it, let's me get into places that a 4-wheeled machine never could. Keep the duals on and it is every bit as stable on slopes as a 4-wheeled machine, IMO. NEVER tipped mine over.

No issues with the frame, hydaulics, or engine. What do you want out of a machine with that many hours??? I hear about issues with Carlton, replacing cutter wheel bearing and belts that are hundreds of dollars each at less than a hundred hours. My cutter wheel belts last 700 hours and are about $30. Cutter wheel bearings last 500-700 hours, are $82 bucks each. I'm no loyal Vermeer fan, but I feel the 252 has given me way more than I could have expected when I got it 6 years ago.

Don't get me wrong, I would love to have a Carlton 4012 with the 44hp Kubota engine, 4wd, blade, remote, etc. Demo'd the 33 hp machine a couple years back at the factory. But I don't have 30K yet to spend. And it does seem like the Vermeer 352 has had more than its share of problems, can't recommend one but then again, I have never operated one. But I think Vermeer has it right with the older 252's. You can forget about the operator presence sytem on the new ones, useless. I'm full-time in the stump business only and all I use is the 252 and an Alpine Magnum, suits me just fine.

Making these inexpensive upgrades has turned my machine into a much better one. What does a new one cost, I haven't checked lately, but probably isn't over $15K. Was $12.3K six years ago.

I know the engine has got to fail sometime soon, but then I'll do the upgrade to the 35hp Vanguard and away we go for another 6 years. I spent about $300 replacing the boom pivot bearings and shaft and bushings this past winter and it's almost as tight as new.

So how many hours did you put on a 252 before you figured out the best thing to do is sell it????? Better be way over 4000 my friend....

stumper63

 

[TreeClimber57]

thanks plyscamp,
I was also thinking that you could increase the ground speed by changing the small sprocket on hydraulic drive motor for the wheels and increasing chain length a few links. But this would seem to decrease the power though increasing the speed, used to do this with dirt bikes years ago. With your modification have you noticed any decrease in hill climbing power, or is it just the same with more speed? Does the increased rpm's of the pump pulley increase the flow or the pressure?
thanks for another good idea!

Stumper63

I am looking back through these.. see some possible issue with increasing pump speed (maybe -- some whine, etc).. would not just putting on a higher flow pump not be better idea.. or am I out to lunch here. Want to upgrade mine this spring.. and looking at options.

 

[stumper63]

As long as just increasing the pulley size works, what's not to like? Some guys on here have done it a long time ago and had no problems. It's a 10 minute job and, I forget, cost like $50. My pump does make a slight whine that it did not do before the pulley upgrade, but barely noticeable.

A new pump would have to be significantly more. Of course, a higher flow pump would be optimal. Let us know if you go that route and post the pump info if you would.

Stumper63

 

[Hometown Tree]

got a quick question guys

Hey guys, enjoyed reading all the threads about my 252, already done all the bearings and belts and a new motor, but i got a lot of play in the wheels, like it keeps rolling a little forward or back and lets the machine try to bite too much and wants to choke it down. What ya think, is it the pins or the hole through the wheel. Haven't seen this one on here. thanks, Ken

 

[TreeClimber57]

Hey guys, enjoyed reading all the threads about my 252, already done all the bearings and belts and a new motor, but i got a lot of play in the wheels, like it keeps rolling a little forward or back and lets the machine try to bite too much and wants to choke it down. What ya think, is it the pins or the hole through the wheel. Haven't seen this one on here. thanks, Ken

Likely a silly question to you.. but you do have both wheels locked ?

 

[robertjinnes]

Hometown Tree rolling machine

As you suggest. Possibly the pins and holes but more likely the drive chains. Keep the pressure up on your tires and also be aware of piled up grindings under the tires. I'm guessing that what occurs is the whole machine starts to bounce. The harder the stump, the dryer the stump, the duller the cutters, the smaller size bite that can be taking. Vermeer recommends moving the machine forward in 4-6 inche increments but you can sweep faster, lower the cutter in larger increments and not overload the machine if you only move it 2-3 inches. Also you should only be cutting between just slightly (2 to 3inches) below the center height of the cutter wheel and not going down as far as the bottom center. (3 to 4 inches before). Higher than indicated makes the machine want to climb up the stump and lower than indicated makes the machine want to drive into the stump-- Either one results in starting to jump, dig and stall (choke down as you described). Bob the Treeman

 

[stumper63]

How many hours on your machine? If it's alot then it is probably a combo problem.
1. Chain, make sure it is tensioned properly, if it's loose it will result in excess wheel movement. Replace if it's very old, costs like $12.

2. Wheel lock pins and drive plate worn. Mine's pretty bad, but alot of hours on machine. The drive side plate is part of the sprocket too, so don't want to replace that whole piece, it's a bit expensive. Gonna try to figure out how to weld some plates on to take up the wear. New pins would help too.

 

[purplewg]

I agree with robertjinnes. My Rayco was doing something very similar and popping when backing off the trailer. I noticed the chain (drive) was loose. I adjusted the drive motor to take up the slop and it is fine now. No popping and no drift on the stump like before.

 

[purplewg]

How many hours on your machine? If it's alot then it is probably a combo problem.
1. Chain, make sure it is tensioned properly, if it's loose it will result in excess wheel movement. Replace if it's very old, costs like $12.

2. Wheel lock pins and drive plate worn. Mine's pretty bad, but alot of hours on machine. The drive side plate is part of the sprocket too, so don't want to replace that whole piece, it's a bit expensive. Gonna try to figure out how to weld some plates on to take up the wear. New pins would help too.

MIG weld the holes and redrill.

 

[Hometown Tree]

sure but it will roll forward about an inch or so and drives me crazy with grabbing too much and binding the motor

 

[Hometown Tree]

thanks everyone for the info.

 

[TreeClimber57]

M1 Cutting System.

Has anybody ever tried this cutting wheel and their teeth?

Comments?

http://www.leonarditreecare.com/M1/M1-Over.html#

 

[ozzy42]

Just stumbled apon this thread.

This is a simple mod [if you can weld a little bit]
to actually make use of the annoying safety bar .
Made simply with some 1x1 and some expanded metal.

Grind stump ,lower bar ,shove mulch over stump hole,go over lawn with a plastic rake.

I have done this to 2 of my own grinders ,and on my cousin's in ark.
Works great.

Btw,the reason for the expanded metal is 1,it's lite,and 2,it does not obstruct your view when folded up with a bungee,like most people do with the guard anyway.
Got the idea from seeing the chip blade on my friends bigger rayco that still had all the paint on it because they put it on the wrong end of the machine.



Hope it helps .



BTW also .
Love the idea of the undersize pulley to make the ##### locomote faster.
Gonna look into that for sure.

 

[ApexTreeService]

cool

Just stumbled apon this thread.

This is a simple mod [if you can weld a little bit]
to actually make use of the annoying safety bar .
Made simply with some 1x1 and some expanded metal.
Grind stump ,lower bar ,shove mulch over stump hole,go over lawn with a plastic rake.

I have done this to 2 of my own grinders ,and on my cousin's in ark.
Works great.

Btw,the reason for the expanded metal is 1,it's lite,and 2,it does not obstruct your view when folded up with a bungee,like most people do with the guard anyway.
Got the idea from seeing the chip blade on my friends bigger rayco that still had all the paint on it because they put it on the wrong end of the machine.



Hope it helps .



BTW also .
Love the idea of the undersize pulley to make the ##### locomote faster.
Gonna look into that for sure.

DAMN THAT'S AWSOME! Crap, I wish I wouldn't have cut mine off! I have wished the whole time I had a blade. Well guess I'll be welding one up.

 

[robertjinnes]

Not an SC252 upgrade, just a maintainance question

Has anyone replaced the bushings under the belly of the beast for the main up/down pivot shaft? The shaft is 1.25 diameter with a 1 inch thread on one end and cross bolt on the other.-- Simple you say. Pull the bolt, loosen the nut and it should just push out. I can't even budge it with a 2 1/2 pound hammer. Should I torch heat to expand the frame collars OR Cut out the center section of the shaft and then drill the stubs to relieve pressure and knock out the stubs, OR use the 1 inch threaded end with spacer collars and pull it out? HELP HELP HELP

 

[stumper63]

I have heard others had your same issue. I just did mine a few months ago, unbelievably the shaft slid right out with light tapping. And the bushings are split so they tapped right out too. I did keep mine greased pretty good so that maybe helped, but the shaft and bushings were really worn after about 3800 hours.

Do you have the engine/boom suspended and a little pressure on the hoist? will take the weight off the bolt/bushings.

It will be worth the effort, with the new shaft and bushings it tightened almost as good as new.

Stumper63

 

[arbor pro]

Just stumbled apon this thread.

This is a simple mod [if you can weld a little bit]
to actually make use of the annoying safety bar .
Made simply with some 1x1 and some expanded metal.

Grind stump ,lower bar ,shove mulch over stump hole,go over lawn with a plastic rake.

QUOTE]

Any twisting/bending issues? Has the mod held up well? I like the idea. Like you said, might as well make use of an otherwise annoying feature.

 

[ozzy42]

Just stumbled apon this thread.

This is a simple mod [if you can weld a little bit]
to actually make use of the annoying safety bar .
Made simply with some 1x1 and some expanded metal.

Grind stump ,lower bar ,shove mulch over stump hole,go over lawn with a plastic rake.

QUOTE]

Any twisting/bending issues? Has the mod held up well? I like the idea. Like you said, might as well make use of an otherwise annoying feature.

It has held up very well.
Only pushing mulch ,it is traction limited,if you grab too much,wheels will spin until you lift the boom a little bit.


The only wear problem I've had is on the back side where the original bar the hoop swings on will eventually bend where the hoop meetes the stationary part of the boom,mostly from just flinging the hoop forward and letting it bounce prior to use.
Easy fix with a small piece of angle and some flatstock .

Build the blade with the bottom just touching the ground while the cutter teeth are 3-4 inches above ground .
No need to lock it in the down position while pushing.
The weight itself will keep it down while pushing mulch.
Use the up-down lever to graze the top of the lawn.


Oh yeah, almost forgot .
When in the upright position the top of the blade will rest on the exhaust pipe of the muffler.
After about a year and a half or so it was denting the pipe .
I just welded a small rest coming up from the plate that runs paralell to the main belts [motor -to-jackshaft] for it to sit on and a bungee to hold it up,but it will usually stay up by itself until you get down deep in the ground.


Material used was med wall 1x1 and some expanded metal.[nothing too heavy]
I made it concave by notching the 2 longer pcs of 1x1 on the blade abot 6-7 inches fom the end bent them in a bit ,then welded them back together.

I would make the blade first ,then tack weld outside the existing hoop with it straight up and down with the boom in correct height ,then add 2 diagonals from the bottom corners of the blade going back to the hoop to triangulate.

Remember to keep the width the same as the grinder.


I suck at posting pics,but it's a simple build.


We want pics when you GIT-R-DONE.

 

[robertjinnes]

Response to stumper 63

My machine is actually a 222. Previously a rental machine-- Hours unknwn but HIGH for sure. This machine may be slightly different than the 252. I ended up cutting the welds that secure the steel collars onto the side plates. Popped those collars loose and then finally the shaft started to move with the big hammer. There are no grease fitting. The bushings are a very hard plastic. The shaft WAS Chrome Plated but due to all the wear had long since worn away and the shaft is locally worn in by about .020 on the front and back where the force is applied. The bushings are worn to a sloppy loose fit on the shaft and the shaft was actually wearing on the center portion of the stepped sleeve the bushings were in. I split the bushings with a SAWZALL and they simply fell out. Now its just new bushings and shaft and a little artwork with my mig welder to reweld the collars, using the shaft for alignment. Do you have the parts manual for the 252? A PDF or two of the exploded view of that area and the bill of material would be great to compare to the 222 manual. I may convert to what sounds like a probable upgrade from the 222 to the 252. To all Vermeer owners--- Are you aware that you can get an Operators Manual and a Parts Manual just by registering your machine and requesting the manuals? Bob the Treeman

 

[Plyscamp]

For those of you with welding ability that removed the annoying safety bar. We modified Craftsman Tractor snow blades to snap on and off the cutting wheel of our SC252's. Two hooks slide over the cutter wheel shaft that are welded to the back side of the blade. And we fabricated a quick release latch at the top of the cutter wheel guard. I would post pictures but I have not figured out how to do that. However you can see it at the link below.

We have been using these blades for about one year now, saved us 2 hours clean up on the first job we used it on.

http://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/grd/1741744785.html