Log attachment for wheel loader
- Thread starter mountainguyed67
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Hauled this up yesterday, now need to plumb another valve for it.
You can keep the grapple - let me have the bobbed Cornbinder. Looks like the cat's meow. Ron
Ha ha. Nope!
I got one cylinder apart a couple months ago. I couldn’t get one of the mounting pins out of the other cylinder, and it’s still up there.
Look how bad the pitting is around the center hole.
This nut really didn’t want to come off.
Look how bad the pitting is around the center hole.
This nut really didn’t want to come off.
I cleaned up this sealing surface, you can see the pitting above. There’s still a very minor blemish, but I can barely feel it. I think it’ll be okay.
the sealing surface will be fine. Looks like them cylinders have been sitting awhile... crunchy...
If you can pull the rod pin then you can rebuild them with the barrel still attached, as long as the inside isn't too nasty (and really... they will put up with a lot of nasty and still work ok)
If you can pull the rod pin then you can rebuild them with the barrel still attached, as long as the inside isn't too nasty (and really... they will put up with a lot of nasty and still work ok)
Yes. And it’s the lower (barrel) pin, so the open end of the barrel will flop down, making it easier to work on. There was hardly any nastiness in the other cylinder, so it should be the same.
I also measured between the two cylinders, so I can cut a piece of pipe and push from the other cylinder mount with a hydraulic jack. Haven’t looked for pipe yet.
The loader is within the Creek Fire evacuation zone, fire got within 2-3 miles of it. No idea when they’ll let us back up there. Maybe sooner than the public because I’m a property owner, dunno.
Local logging crew went from logging to helping with the fire, a neighbor’s son is on the crew, but not in the picture.
Trying to push the pin out just bowed the tubing, maybe it would have worked with thicker wall tubing.
Removed the guts.
Identifying where the diverter valve will go and how to route hoses.
Located the lines to plumb in a diverter valve, and identified what they are. This one will retract the cylinders.
Found a picture of how Terex routed fluid to the grapple. Mine has the clamp blocks, but not the tubing. I found a local place that makes the tubes that seal around the tube. They have the other type with weld on ends, but don’t weld them for you. A buddy says I should go with all hose because tubes are hard to get right.
Removed the guts.
Identifying where the diverter valve will go and how to route hoses.
Located the lines to plumb in a diverter valve, and identified what they are. This one will retract the cylinders.
Found a picture of how Terex routed fluid to the grapple. Mine has the clamp blocks, but not the tubing. I found a local place that makes the tubes that seal around the tube. They have the other type with weld on ends, but don’t weld them for you. A buddy says I should go with all hose because tubes are hard to get right.
I brought down the hoses from the grapple to have new ones made.
Gonna get this cleaned up and resealed before next time up.
Diverter valve. We’re gonna use the dump circuit, pressing the switch will change the lever from dump to clamp/unclamp.
Same buddy wants me to use a switch similar to this, I think it’s too big.
Old fashioned starter switch should do it.
Gonna get this cleaned up and resealed before next time up.
Diverter valve. We’re gonna use the dump circuit, pressing the switch will change the lever from dump to clamp/unclamp.
Same buddy wants me to use a switch similar to this, I think it’s too big.
Old fashioned starter switch should do it.
Here’s the space available on the floor. The big hole in the bottom left corner of the throttle side sheet metal is for an air horn switch.
Might be able to rig up a thumb switch on the loader control lever? kinda like an excavator thumb control? Or a rocker switch exactly like an excavator control... the handles with switches are fairly cheap online, and just a standard threaded end, so you could fabricobble it onto the existing control. Just my opinion, but having the control down where your feet are seems like a pretty good way to have surprises. (granted I don't have much control over one of my feet, so I get these sorts of surprises often lol)
As for piping vs hoses meh hoses are fine, piping looks better, but if the outfit that claims to work on them can't weld them... I would be highly suspicious....
its not "hard" to route the pipes, its just difficult to make it look good. Hoses will wear out though, eventually... but then you just get new ones made.
On that stubborn pin, sometimes a little pressure (vs like a lot) and a good hard love tap will get em moving, barring that get the acetylene wrench.
As for piping vs hoses meh hoses are fine, piping looks better, but if the outfit that claims to work on them can't weld them... I would be highly suspicious....
its not "hard" to route the pipes, its just difficult to make it look good. Hoses will wear out though, eventually... but then you just get new ones made.
On that stubborn pin, sometimes a little pressure (vs like a lot) and a good hard love tap will get em moving, barring that get the acetylene wrench.
Put in a relay and use a button as NM suggested. Having grown up in the 60s, I mounted a Hurst shifter handle with a line lock (roll control) button on my joy stick to work the grapple.
Ron
Ron
We considered that. The other guy thought both hands would be busy, both feet wouldn’t. Dunno, I would have to think through it while operating the thing. I wouldn’t think I’d be accidentally stepping on the foot switch, especially with the smaller one.
Pipes are more durable, can be routed out of the way better, and are more secure with the clamps they have. There are probably clamps available for the hoses too. I would need separate hoses with an elbow fitting in the corners to keep it routed the same. I think I can get them good information to make the pipes right. The place that can’t weld the ends on the pipes is called “Hoses & Fittings”. They’re true to their name.
I hit the side while pressure was on the pin, couldn’t hit it the same direction the jack was pushing.
at a guess, the loader control is a joystick? back and forth equals up and down, side to side dump or curl bucket? or maybe its two sticks but more or less the same functions?
with the proper solenoid valve, you should be able to have power in power out, so a rocker switch mounted to your current bucket control, then your thumb just holds one side or the other to open or close grapples, one hand could control all three functions, while the other is left to drive the machine. Leaving the feets to control throttle, and brakes (assuming it has brakes lol)
If you just have a diverter valve then mounting it direct to the bucket control would still be more logical and far easier to learn, something about foot controlled functions is always janky especially if your fighting between throttle and brakes already.
Ya ever run the early Deere hydrostatic dozers, or some early skid steers? foot turn or foot controlled loaders, ******* goofy as frig and a total PITA to operate, especially if you need to crane yer body around to see what your doing... trying to half stand/crouch while peeking over a blade/bucket/grapple while also trying to turn or pour rock with your feet... who ever thought of this method should be sacked, then wrapped in a burlap sack and un taught how to swim.
with the proper solenoid valve, you should be able to have power in power out, so a rocker switch mounted to your current bucket control, then your thumb just holds one side or the other to open or close grapples, one hand could control all three functions, while the other is left to drive the machine. Leaving the feets to control throttle, and brakes (assuming it has brakes lol)
If you just have a diverter valve then mounting it direct to the bucket control would still be more logical and far easier to learn, something about foot controlled functions is always janky especially if your fighting between throttle and brakes already.
Ya ever run the early Deere hydrostatic dozers, or some early skid steers? foot turn or foot controlled loaders, ******* goofy as frig and a total PITA to operate, especially if you need to crane yer body around to see what your doing... trying to half stand/crouch while peeking over a blade/bucket/grapple while also trying to turn or pour rock with your feet... who ever thought of this method should be sacked, then wrapped in a burlap sack and un taught how to swim.
I thought I had a picture, but can’t find it. It’s two levers side by side. Both are push and pull only, no side movement.
ah, still pretty easy to lop off the bucket control and add a micro switch, then its at yer thumb tip and all the same motion
orrrrrr, get real wild, lop off both levers, put in a U-joint with linkages then fabricobble a joystick so it is all one control... too much work? LOL, thats how the controls on my log loader, and the old backhoe I had were rigged up, works good until the u-joint gets sloppy. If I remember I'll try and get some pictures of the log loader controls, couple few hiem joints and some all thread, be like running a modern machine... but without all the fancy LED lights and buzzers
There’s a few feet of linkage from the levers to the control valve.
