Log attachment for wheel loader

[mountainguyed67]

I forgot about putting thicker wires to the diverter valve. Someone on heavy equipment forum had this to say. “Be aware that some newer controllers have small wires and the microswitches may not be able to conduct much amperage therefore the controller may have to be wired to a relay which would then activate the coil on the valve.“

 

[mountainguyed67]

The pin length will reach through, the bushings aren’t worn enough to get the pins through. One or the other will have to be machined, I’m thinking of opening up the bushings.

View attachment 1029779View attachment 1029780View attachment 1029781View attachment 1029782

I opened up a new bushing with the expandable reamer I got, I clamped the reamer in a vise and held the bushing with a chain vise grip. I increased a few times to get there, but it’s set now. Not sure I’ll be able to do it all at once, It’ll be different on the grapple. I’ll have to turn the reamer, won’t be able to go continuously around, and it’ll be horizontal instead of gravity helping a little. In this picture you can see the bushing on the pin.

 

[sean donato]

Get or make a square socket and use a ratchet on it. Much easier then a wrench or adjustable.

 

[mountainguyed67]

Someone suggested I should be able to find a 12 point socket that’ll grab it, I’m gonna look.

 

[mountainguyed67]

Someone suggested I should be able to find a 12 point socket that’ll grab it, I’m gonna look.

I don’t have anything between 1-1/2” and 1-13/16”, one’s too small and one is too big. It’s somewhere in between.

 

[sean donato]

In the past I've gotten a heavy walled impact socket smaller then I need, but one to the right size and took the die grinder to it. It's a little bit hinky but it works.

 

[blades]

look at a metric socket for something in between. that sometimes gets ya going.

 

[mountainguyed67]

look at a metric socket for something in between. that sometimes gets ya going.

There’s still 1-9/16”, 1-5/8”, and 1-3/4” to try.

 

[mountainguyed67]

There’s still 1-9/16”, 1-5/8”, and 1-3/4” to try.

It’s 1-9/16”.

 

[mountainguyed67]

I worked on opening up the bushings so the .02” bigger pins will fit through. I got through one, and it wasn’t quite in line with the one next to it. I think I’ll open it up until the pin goes through, rather than pay a few thousand to have it fixed right in a machine shop. I worked in a machine shop, so I know what needs to be done.

 

[northmanlogging]

I worked on opening up the bushings so the .02” bigger pins will fit through. I got through one, and it wasn’t quite in line with the one next to it. I think I’ll open it up until the pin goes through, rather than pay a few thousand to have it fixed right in a machine shop. I worked in a machine shop, so I what needs to be done.

View attachment 1087397View attachment 1087398

I keep threatening to build a line boring machine... or buy a cheap one, I just haven't found a use for one yet, personally anyway.
There are a couple affordable import versions on fleabay, so when the time comes...
I got a quote from a reputable american manufacturer... it cost more then a used excavator with decent pins... for the base model

 

[mountainguyed67]

I was wiring the diverter wrong. I was putting the ground on the post marked with the ground symbol, but was told the ground post isn’t used, to put negative and positive on the other two posts. It did magnetize after wiring it that way, doing it directly from the battery. It pulled a 1/2” wrench to the side. Somewhat strong, but I could pull it away. I then put the skinny wire from the controller back on it, I could barely feel it. I still haven’t tried the relay. At least I know it works now, and can wire it up with the relay next time.

 

[mountainguyed67]

I also need to find a solution here. Do I extend the collar? Or drill the pin to have it located where it is in the pic? That way the grease gets to where it needs to go.

 

[sean donato]

Drill the pin.

 

[mountainguyed67]

I’m looking at a carbide drill. The guy that gave me the pins said grind through the case hardening, then drill. Hmmmm.

 

[sean donato]

I keep a bunch of solid carbide drill bits around they are great for hard materials. I do find a nice flat spot on a case hardened or chromed pin with the grinder helps to get started.. typically the hardening isn't deep. I agree with your pin guy lol.

 

[northmanlogging]

I’m looking at a carbide drill. The guy that gave me the pins said grind through the case hardening, then drill. Hmmmm.

grind through the hard layer (usually under .030" 1/32) you'll want to use something that can guarantee centering, like a mill, or hire it done by a machinist
Do NOT heat to "remove" the hardening... that will cause weird stresses and likely cause the pin to break.

 

[catbuster]

grind through the hard layer (usually under .030" 1/32) you'll want to use something that can guarantee centering, like a mill, or hire it done by a machinist
Do NOT heat to "remove" the hardening... that will cause weird stresses and likely cause the pin to break.

Do this. The induction hardened layers on pins and chrome bar for hydraulic piston rods are weird. Just a little bit is hard, and if you try to soften the hard layer with heat you’ll have to put enough heat into it to heat the whole part, stresses will build unevenly and the pin might crack axially.

Sometimes paying a professional is cheaper and easier.

 

[sean donato]

No one said anything about heating the pin, where did you guys come up with that?

 

[northmanlogging]

No one said anything about heating the pin, where did you guys come up with that?

I've had several break, because the shop I sent them too heated them...
And whenever you mention heat treatment people suddenly become experts on the topic, so figured I'd head that one off at the pass.