Log Splitter Beam Question.

kljahnz · Feb 21, 2015

Guswhit said:
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I found and used an I beam for mine, but it was a 4"x8" so I cut 2 in equal sizes and welded them to make an 8"x8" and then welded a 1/2" plate down the length of the top. It has held up well for a long time, I think because the it has 2 supports closer to the edge of the beams instead of one down the center. Of course this is what happened to be available at the time and I always like to scrounge things.

Did you use those three cavities,around the I beams, for a hydraulic oil reservoir? Even the box tubing design, seems like a good place to store hydraulic oil.

Guswhit · Feb 21, 2015

kljahnz said:
Did you use those three cavities,around the I beams, for a hydraulic oil reservoir? Even the box tubing design, seems like a good place to store hydraulic oil.

I happen to be using a 28 gpm pump with a 20 hp Honda and an 8" cylinder so I am using a tank that came off an old dump truck. Fluid still gets hot in the summer so I really should put a cooler on.

kljahnz · Feb 21, 2015

Ok, now I see a con for using the beam as a heat exchanger/oil reservoir, during summer use, there is a very good chance that the beam maybe too hot to touch. It's my understanding that you need at least as much oil, reservoir tank, as your pump is rated for. 28 gal. Pump and at least 28 gal. Of oil.

blades · Feb 21, 2015

Total system capacity - so you can fudge a bit on the tank but I would like a minimum of 20gal tank. Heat is your enemy- friction causes heat so 90 deg turns small lines ect all work against you, and use Hi-flow fittings

I made a beam out of 2, 4" x6" x1/4" wall tubes - welded together down the middle all the way around, barely if at all flexes under the pressure from the 5" ram ( somewhere in the area of 30t) Not a fan of foot plates ( vert/horz units) Most of your force transmittal will be at the top of push plate and wedge when running large rounds so recommend a stepped wedge (bottom ahead of top) Most of the time this can get a split started before the pressure builds to high on the top edges down side is it can sometimes cause a round to squirt out on nasty pieces

Kevin in Ohio · Feb 21, 2015

kljahnz said:
Ok, now I see a con for using the beam as a heat exchanger/oil reservoir, during summer use, there is a very good chance that the beam maybe too hot to touch. It's my understanding that you need at least as much oil, reservoir tank, as your pump is rated for. 28 gal. Pump and at least 28 gal. Of oil.

That is a good rule of thumb but you'll get people who say 3 gallon is enough and so on. I'd rather err on the side of overkill!

You just want to think out your design and have as big of ports as you can get to save any neck downs. It get expensive on the fittings and hose but it is what will keep the heat down and allow the system to work faster/better.

As few 90 degree bends as possible and use long sweeps at those spots. May not look as tidy but it's function over form.

When doing mine, that is the only thing I really sat down and drew out. I didn't want any surprises on line runs or crossovers.

Sidenote: we were splitting on a real cold day and Dad was rubbing his hands.

I told him I had added and option hand warmer just for that on the return to the tank. That pipe is just the perfect size and does the trick!

JDavidS · Feb 21, 2015

I had thought about using an enclosed beam as an oil tank like you are talking about, but I am going to be running vertical so that would mess up the fluid level/cause pump feed transfer issues I think.