Log Splitter Build

[JakefromCharlotte]

Howdy from Charlotte.

I am currently building my first splitter and need some help with the hydraulics. I'll try to get the questions out of the way:
1. For valves and pump, what is the best value for reliability and cost? (Looking at Prince valves, 22gal. Pump from Northen Tool)
2. Where to source hydraulic parts without going broke on shipping charges? (valves from Surplus Center)
3. How important is it that the parts are fresh? (produced recently) (MFG date on the pump at Northern Tool was 2003)

Some details on the splitter Im building:
Honda GX390 (got it off a generator that I only used for 7 hours)
Old Seitz 5 inch cylinder with a 20" stroke
Log lift
4 way blade with height adjustment
Frame is a W14 x 82 I-Beam (14"h x 10" w)
Homemade 25gal+ tank (stupid idea...)
Mobile home tires and axle
Full auto valve, extend and retract

I based most of my design off the Eastonmade type of splitter. This will be a home use only piece of equipment. This is my first big project into the dark arts of hydraulics and any help is greatly appreciated.

-Jake


Fusion model:

 

[blades]

Prince valve good, Pump I look for one that I know I can get repair parts for down the road- do not care particularly( as everyone is into global whatever) where it is made just that parts are going to be available or repairable- That said the small 11 gpm or so units are cheap enough just to replace but that changes when you start looking at 20 gpm on up . Try to minimize 90deg fittings by using 45deg ones and try to use Hi flow fittings this to minimize friction = heat build in oil which is the death of hydraulic components.

 

[rancher2]

Jake Looks like you have a good start. If it was me I wouldn't spent all the time of building a splitter and use a 20 inch stroke cylinder. I would go 30 inch at least you can always put a stop on it to shorten the stroke. I would go with a over size rod for quicker retract. I have owned two auto cycle valves and won't own another. I would just go with detent on retract. I would go with Surplus Center for the pump and hyd needs. I think you will find a 22GPM two stage is a little slow on a five inch cylinder. I like the 28GPM on a five inch but you will be a little short on engine for that.

 

[olyman]

is the end of the crankshaft on the honda tapered?????

 

[JakefromCharlotte]

Prince valve good, Pump I look for one that I know I can get repair parts for down the road- do not care particularly( as everyone is into global whatever) where it is made just that parts are going to be available or repairable- That said the small 11 gpm or so units are cheap enough just to replace but that changes when you start looking at 20 gpm on up . Try to minimize 90deg fittings by using 45deg ones and try to use Hi flow fittings this to minimize friction = heat build in oil which is the death of hydraulic components.

Thanks Blades, This is the pump I was looking at:
Concentric Hydraulic Pump — 22 GPM, 2-Stage,

I read somewhere that Concentric was a good brand, but I really don't know. On the hoses, I'm planning to use long sweep elbows wherever possible. Also I would like to use rigid tubes to cut down on the spaghetti look.

Jake Looks like you have a good start. If it was me I wouldn't spent all the time of building a splitter and use a 20 inch stroke cylinder. I would go 30 inch at least you can always put a stop on it to shorten the stroke. I would go with a over size rod for quicker retract. I have owned two auto cycle valves and won't own another. I would just go with detent on retract. I would go with Surplus Center for the pump and hyd needs. I think you will find a 22GPM two stage is a little slow on a five inch cylinder. I like the 28GPM on a five inch but you will be a little short on engine for that.

Thanks Rancher2, I'm pretty deep into this build to change cylinders now. I bought the cylinder many years ago always dreaded moving it because of weight. It's a 5" bore with a 3" rod. I will use this for fire pit wood 14" - 18" seems to be a good size for my homemade pit. I would be interested to hear more on your opinions about the auto valves. I thought that was a game changer, but I have no experience with a splitter.

is the end of the crankshaft on the honda tapered?????

Thanks Olyman, Yup.... I struggled for a couple hours to get the armature loose(didn't want to damage the Honda shaft or bearings), and that tapered shaft was the crappy prize at the bottom of a box of poop flavored cereal. My plan is to cut off the taper and mill a keyway into the .872" part of the shaft for a Love-Joy. I haven't figured out how to mount it on the mill yet

 

[olyman]

Thanks Blades, This is the pump I was looking at:
Concentric Hydraulic Pump — 22 GPM, 2-Stage,

I read somewhere that Concentric was a good brand, but I really don't know. On the hoses, I'm planning to use long sweep elbows wherever possible. Also I would like to use rigid tubes to cut down on the spaghetti look.

Thanks Rancher2, I'm pretty deep into this build to change cylinders now. I bought the cylinder many years ago always dreaded moving it because of weight. It's a 5" bore with a 3" rod. I will use this for fire pit wood 14" - 18" seems to be a good size for my homemade pit. I would be interested to hear more on your opinions about the auto valves. I thought that was a game changer, but I have no experience with a splitter.

View attachment 892070

Thanks Olyman, Yup.... I struggled for a couple hours to get the armature loose(didn't want to damage the Honda shaft or bearings), and that tapered shaft was the crappy prize at the bottom of a box of poop flavored cereal. My plan is to cut off the taper and mill a keyway into the .872" part of the shaft for a Love-Joy. I haven't figured out how to mount it on the mill yet

View attachment 892071

View attachment 892072

on my splitter, the briggs had the taper. I took it apart, welded the crank,,lathed it down,,and had metal working shop cut the keyway in. the clown made the keyway wayyyyyy toooooo tight!!!!

 

[muddstopper]

You can buy an adapter for that tapered shank. Or you can buy a lovejoy coupleing with that taper. Beats tearing a engine down to weld up the taper or cutting the shaft off and having to machine the crank end. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1320836775...1291&msclkid=035b8b7b0dd51764b0abeb41d94a6b89

 

[CUCV]

The autocycle valves can be finicky and are sensitive to temperature changes. They are not intuitive to run when the autocycle is not working properly. The two handles that need to be pulled are a bit far apart for my "medium" size hands. If I build a new splitter I will skip the prince autocycle valve. I love the autocycle concept as implemented on my superslit.
Your wedge looks sweet, did you cut the angle yourself on a bridgeport? What steel are you using on the wedge?

 

[Ted Jenkins]

You can buy an adapter for that tapered shank. Or you can buy a lovejoy coupleing with that taper. Beats tearing a engine down to weld up the taper or cutting the shaft off and having to machine the crank end. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1320836775...1291&msclkid=035b8b7b0dd51764b0abeb41d94a6b89

I had no problem cutting a key slot into a crank. I just carefully used a dremal tool and made it accurate. As far as changing or welding the end of the crank I have also done that with no problems. On the very negative side of that equation it is too much and too much work to do so. Thanks

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Jake Looks like you have a good start. If it was me I wouldn't spent all the time of building a splitter and use a 20 inch stroke cylinder. I would go 30 inch at least you can always put a stop on it to shorten the stroke. I would go with a over size rod for quicker retract. I have owned two auto cycle valves and won't own another. I would just go with detent on retract. I would go with Surplus Center for the pump and hyd needs. I think you will find a 22GPM two stage is a little slow on a five inch cylinder. I like the 28GPM on a five inch but you will be a little short on engine for that.

Here are a few facts concerning your build. With a 5'' ram you will be in the neighborhood of 50,000 lbs. So your splicing on the end of your I beam may be in question unless there is more gusseting done. A typical approach with your I beam will be to make it about 6'' wide. I would suggest to add material on the bottom edge of the upper edge of I beam to make the wearing edge quite thick. By doing this the wear surface will be large spreading out the load. The slide can be welded solid to eliminate any need for bolts. By simply moving the slide towards the ram mounting end to remove. A 22 gpm pump will need about 15 HP or less. A 28 GPM pump will need about 15 HP or more. I have seen many pumps set up already for the preferred HP that you may want to use. My take on a 5'' ram with either pump will work OK. The 28 obviously will be faster. Remember too fast may be dangerous to some operators. Yes using good sweeping connectors either 3/4'' or 1'' respectively will be an asset. A 20'' ram probably will be too short for most uses. If you are certain that 18'' splits will always be what you want then there should be not too big of an issue. If you are certain that you will be working with small wood then a multi wedge can be a very big asset. For larger wood with knots not so much. Pretty sure as soon as one puts some good size rounds with some good knots the OP will immediately get out the cutting torch. I tried to use a multi wedge more than once but gave up on the process. A good round would cause my structure to twist quite badly. If you are going to be working on warm days for more than half an hour at a time then you will need cooling. Some square or round tubing welded along the middle of the I beam maybe all one needs. I use some 4'' heavy wall tubing both as part of the back bone and as part of the hydraulic reservoir. As far as a log lift I do not have very much of an opinion. Of course there are pros and cons. At this moment for me one of each is the way to go. Where you are terrain being pretty flat and room is not as much of an issues as here then let us know how it is working. Thanks

 

[JakefromCharlotte]

You can buy an adapter for that tapered shank. Or you can buy a lovejoy coupleing with that taper.

That's awesome. I never thought there would be an adapter. Do you think it will put the coupling too far away from the motor? I am also wondering if it will slip on the taper?

Your wedge looks sweet, did you cut the angle yourself on a bridgeport? What steel are you using on the wedge?

I got the beam and wedge material at a local scrap yard. I'm sure its not the "right" steel, but it seemed to mill better than 1018. Maybe in the 41** family? They had a bunch of 8.25" x 1.25" cut-offs in different lengths at $.30 per pound. Thats what I used for the pusher, wedge, and mounts.

I would suggest to add material on the bottom edge of the upper edge of I beam to make the wearing edge quite thick. By doing this the wear surface will be large spreading out the load. The slide can be welded solid to eliminate any need for bolts. By simply moving the slide towards the ram mounting end to remove. A 22 gpm pump will need about 15 HP or less. A 28 GPM pump will need about 15 HP or more. I have seen many pumps set up already for the preferred HP that you may want to use. My take on a 5'' ram with either pump will work OK. The 28 obviously will be faster. Remember too fast may be dangerous to some operators. Yes using good sweeping connectors either 3/4'' or 1'' respectively will be an asset. A 20'' ram probably will be too short for most uses. If you are certain that 18'' splits will always be what you want then there should be not too big of an issue. If you are certain that you will be working with small wood then a multi wedge can be a very big asset. For larger wood with knots not so much. Pretty sure as soon as one puts some good size rounds with some good knots the OP will immediately get out the cutting torch. I tried to use a multi wedge more than once but gave up on the process. A good round would cause my structure to twist quite badly. If you are going to be working on warm days for more than half an hour at a time then you will need cooling. Some square or round tubing welded along the middle of the I beam maybe all one needs. I use some 4'' heavy wall tubing both as part of the back bone and as part of the hydraulic reservoir. As far as a log lift I do not have very much of an opinion. Of course there are pros and cons. At this moment for me one of each is the way to go. Where you are terrain being pretty flat and room is not as much of an issues as here then let us know how it is working. Thanks

I thought about the wear plates, but a lot of guys said its not a big deal. The flange it 10" wide by 7/8" thick. I can add them later if it looks like Im getting too much wear.
The Honda GX390 is rated at 11.7 HP, but the face says 13.O. Close enough for me, and it was free....

 

[kevin j]

Honda has at best misleading and I think purposely dishonest marketing. They put numbers on the side of the engine and everyone assumes it’s horsepower. I have a small engine that’s marked 5.0 on the side in huge letters when it’s actually something like 4.2 actual horsepower in their own literature. I don’t think that’s accidental. they do that across their ranges. Sort of like the US auto industry in the 50s and 60s.

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

nice DIY project!

 

[Wood Hound]

Yep, like what i see-this is not a back yard build....

 

[JakefromCharlotte]

I think I need to pull the trigger on a pump this week so I can build an adapter plate next weekend? Any negatives on the Northern Tool 22gal?
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200321057


Weather wasn't the best last weekend so I broke down parts in the basement for the log lift, log side braces, and stabilizer legs.

Yep, like what i see-this is not a back yard build....

It's more of a carport build....

 

[Wood Hound]

That pump, may be China, but not for sure...

 

[Ol' Brian]

IIRC, Concentric pumps are made in Rockford, IL. Heritage derives from Haldex-Barnes. I've got a Haldex Barnes on my splitter... what... 20 years old now, on it's second engine, and still making little ones out of big ones.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

That's awesome. I never thought there would be an adapter. Do you think it will put the coupling too far away from the motor? I am also wondering if it will slip on the taper?

I got the beam and wedge material at a local scrap yard. I'm sure its not the "right" steel, but it seemed to mill better than 1018. Maybe in the 41** family? They had a bunch of 8.25" x 1.25" cut-offs in different lengths at $.30 per pound. Thats what I used for the pusher, wedge, and mounts.

I thought about the wear plates, but a lot of guys said its not a big deal. The flange it 10" wide by 7/8" thick. I can add them later if it looks like Im getting too much wear.
The Honda GX390 is rated at 11.7 HP, but the face says 13.O. Close enough for me, and it was free....

I will be curious to find out how with the multi wedge that your chassis hold up. Also just realized that you are using less than 16 HP so heat should not be a big deal. I use at least 16 HP or more. I am always moving splitter around and it is heavy. Thanks

 

[kevin j]

What software do you use? I was pretty good on the older AutoCAD and then away from it for several years and now inventors gotten so incredibly complicated that I don’t even want to go there

 

[JakefromCharlotte]

IIRC, Concentric pumps are made in Rockford, IL. Heritage derives from Haldex-Barnes. I've got a Haldex Barnes on my splitter... what... 20 years old now, on it's second engine, and still making little ones out of big ones.

In a video from Eastonmade or Wolf Ridge, he commented that the Concentric has worked pretty good for them.

I will be curious to find out how with the multi wedge that your chassis hold up. Also just realized that you are using less than 16 HP so heat should not be a big deal. I use at least 16 HP or more. I am always moving splitter around and it is heavy. Thanks

Me too... For some scale:


To my untrained eye it seems that most fo the force will try to break the welds at the noted spots in this pic. But to me the weak link might be the 1/2" web that its. welds too.

What software do you use? I was pretty good on the older AutoCAD and then away from it for several years and now inventors gotten so incredibly complicated that I don’t even want to go there

I learned Fusion 360 a couple years ago. Really helps me figure out the rough ideas.