Log Splitter Fluid, Filter and Crane

[muddstopper]

Check to see if it is a spin on screen or a 10 or 50 micron return line filter first. You can leave that filter base on the bottom of the tank (add a large ball valve) and put a spin on screen filter to protect the pump intake and then add a return line 10 micron filter with a 15 PSI by-pass to the valve out to the tank.

I second that suggestion. A suction filter should not be a 10 micron unless you are running very thin oil. Most likely if it is a true suction filter, it would be a 35micron or larger, possibly a 50 micron or even a 100 micron. If it is a 100 micron, its not doing much to protect your pump since its the only filter on the machine.

 

[mga]

Maybe you should just take the strainer off the oil pump in your car & see how that works out for ya ! Hello wake up & think about it for a minute. Take the filter out of your coffee maker & just put one on you toilet seat. You get my point !

what ever floats your boat, man.

mine has been floating for over 6 years and tens of thousands of cycles without an issue.

 

[Metalmanpro]

I know most of you guys get this but some may not.
Hydraulic tanks are not completely full of fluid. There is an airspace for expansion. As the cylinder cycles in and out, the fluid level goes up and down. There is an air vent on the tank that lets air (and dust) in and out to make up the difference as needed. Lots of tanks are carbon steel, welded together with bare steel on the inside, painted nice and pretty on the outside. Using the splitter usually gets the fluid hotter than the outside air temperature. After shut down, any humid air in the tank will condense into water droplets on the inside top of the tank. Over time, eventually there will be a little water inside the tank under the oil. Oil sloshing around during transport will help prevent rust on the inside top of the tank, but condensation is unstoppable. All of my tanks have a water drain at the lowest point. A return filter is good, but the only one that will protect against condensation induced rust barnacles floating in the oil headed straight for the pump is a suction filter or strainer.
Plastic or stainless tanks solve the rust issue in the tank. Cylinders can still pit if let sitting for long periods of time with water in the oil.
Anyone ever drain rusty colored water from an air compressor that has spent its' life under roof?
I'm sure there are guys that have ran splitters for years on used engine oil, with no filters to slow them down.
Whatever floats your boat.

 

[timbrjackrussel]

I know most of you guys get this but some may not.
Hydraulic tanks are not completely full of fluid. There is an airspace for expansion. As the cylinder cycles in and out, the fluid level goes up and down. There is an air vent on the tank that lets air (and dust) in and out to make up the difference as needed. Lots of tanks are carbon steel, welded together with bare steel on the inside, painted nice and pretty on the outside. Using the splitter usually gets the fluid hotter than the outside air temperature. After shut down, any humid air in the tank will condense into water droplets on the inside top of the tank. Over time, eventually there will be a little water inside the tank under the oil. Oil sloshing around during transport will help prevent rust on the inside top of the tank, but condensation is unstoppable. All of my tanks have a water drain at the lowest point. A return filter is good, but the only one that will protect against condensation induced rust barnacles floating in the oil headed straight for the pump is a suction filter or strainer.
Plastic or stainless tanks solve the rust issue in the tank. Cylinders can still pit if let sitting for long periods of time with water in the oil.
Anyone ever drain rusty colored water from an air compressor that has spent its' life under roof?
I'm sure there are guys that have ran splitters for years on used engine oil, with no filters to slow them down.
Whatever floats your boat.

Well said.

 

[mga]

I know most of you guys get this but some may not.
Hydraulic tanks are not completely full of fluid. There is an airspace for expansion. As the cylinder cycles in and out, the fluid level goes up and down. There is an air vent on the tank that lets air (and dust) in and out to make up the difference as needed. Lots of tanks are carbon steel, welded together with bare steel on the inside, painted nice and pretty on the outside. Using the splitter usually gets the fluid hotter than the outside air temperature. After shut down, any humid air in the tank will condense into water droplets on the inside top of the tank. Over time, eventually there will be a little water inside the tank under the oil. Oil sloshing around during transport will help prevent rust on the inside top of the tank, but condensation is unstoppable. All of my tanks have a water drain at the lowest point. A return filter is good, but the only one that will protect against condensation induced rust barnacles floating in the oil headed straight for the pump is a suction filter or strainer.
Plastic or stainless tanks solve the rust issue in the tank. Cylinders can still pit if let sitting for long periods of time with water in the oil.
Anyone ever drain rusty colored water from an air compressor that has spent its' life under roof?
I'm sure there are guys that have ran splitters for years on used engine oil, with no filters to slow them down.
Whatever floats your boat.

seems this guy has a counter point:

The Truth About Hydraulic Suction Strainers
Jun 1, 2014by Brendan Casey in Hydraulics At Work

Given that particle contamination of hydraulic oil reduces the service life of hydraulic components, it would seem logical that a hydraulic system can never have too many filters. Well, not exactly.

Some hydraulic filters can actually do more harm than good. And so their inclusion in a hydraulic system is misguided. Pump inlet (suction) filters fall into this category. Inlet filters usually take the form of a 140 micron, mesh strainer which is screwed onto the pump intake penetration inside the hydraulic reservoir.

Suction strainers increase the chances of cavitation occurring in the intake line and subsequent damage to, and failure of the hydraulic pump. Piston-type pumps are particularly susceptible.

If the reservoir starts out clean and all oil returning to the reservoir is filtered, suction strainers are not required since the hydraulic oil will not contain particles large enough to be captured by a coarse mesh screen.

So for the reasons outlined above, I generally recommend removing and discarding suction strainers where fitted.

source:

http://hydraulicspneumatics.com/blog/truth-about-hydraulic-suction-strainers

when i was designing my splitter and had no prior knowledge of hydraulics, i read this guy's web site extensively and learned quite a bit from him. i designed my hydraulic tank to his specs, baffles and all exactly as recommended. you can drop a handful of rocks in my tank and none of them will get near the intake line because of the baffle. hence, no need for strainers.

 

[timbrjackrussel]

seems this guy has a counter point:

The Truth About Hydraulic Suction Strainers
Jun 1, 2014by Brendan Casey in Hydraulics At Work

Given that particle contamination of hydraulic oil reduces the service life of hydraulic components, it would seem logical that a hydraulic system can never have too many filters. Well, not exactly.

Some hydraulic filters can actually do more harm than good. And so their inclusion in a hydraulic system is misguided. Pump inlet (suction) filters fall into this category. Inlet filters usually take the form of a 140 micron, mesh strainer which is screwed onto the pump intake penetration inside the hydraulic reservoir.

Suction strainers increase the chances of cavitation occurring in the intake line and subsequent damage to, and failure of the hydraulic pump. Piston-type pumps are particularly susceptible.

If the reservoir starts out clean and all oil returning to the reservoir is filtered, suction strainers are not required since the hydraulic oil will not contain particles large enough to be captured by a coarse mesh screen.

So for the reasons outlined above, I generally recommend removing and discarding suction strainers where fitted.

source:

http://hydraulicspneumatics.com/blog/truth-about-hydraulic-suction-strainers

when i was designing my splitter and had no prior knowledge of hydraulics, i read this guy's web site extensively and learned quite a bit from him. i designed my hydraulic tank to his specs, baffles and all exactly as recommended. you can drop a handful of rocks in my tank and none of them will get near the intake line because of the baffle. hence, no need for strainers.

That is OK if the rocks are water washed and never work against each other or crack because of a little bit of water inside them during a freeze?
If not sized properly ANY restriction to flow on the intake to the pump WILL increase the chances of pump cavitation.
Do it right and chances of cavitation will be reduced and the chances of the pump sucking in debris GREATLY reduced.

 

[mga]

That is OK if the rocks are water washed and never work against each other or crack because of a little bit of water inside them during a freeze?
If not sized properly ANY restriction to flow on the intake to the pump WILL increase the chances of pump cavitation.
Do it right and chances of cavitation will be reduced and the chances of the pump sucking in debris GREATLY reduced.

just pointing out that some don't recommend strainers in any system and why they don't. we've had this discussion here many times over the years. same with the hydraulic filter being placed on the suction or return line. as i said before, your hydraulic system should be clean unless some one is dropping dirt inside your tank.
meanwhile, the filter should be doing it's job and keeping everything clean.

as for moisture in the oil, no strainer is going to remove that, and i can understand why you put a drain cock on the tank, but for the average guy using a simple hydraulic log splitter, it may not be worth it. it's not like they're million dollar machines. just simple routine maintenance will keep the running for many years.

 

[Metalmanpro]

With water comes rust, here coating the top of a hydraulic tank. - See more at: http://www.equipmentworld.com/maintenance-16/#sthash.4wPh7VFu.dpuf
Most rocks don't rust unless they contain iron, but carbon steel does and will sometimes to extent of flaking.
Cavitation can be heard. You will know if it is going on. Systems can be designed so this isn't a problem.
More air in the tank equals more moisture. Works the same in gas tanks, fuel oil drums, etc. Ethanol fuels absorb moisture. The guy that keeps his tanks full of fuel (less air) has less potential for water contamination. You can pass water through a fuel system, but a hydraulic system is a closed loop. In the springtime here on the east coast when the temps go up and down, and the rocks outside bead up with condensation, It reminds me to crack open the tank drain valves and check for water.
The first thing I do when we get a new $100,000 CNC machine in on the shop floor is pop off the hyd. tank lid and clean it, and coat the "airspace" with corrosion inhibiter because these machines don't have the advantage of the oil getting sloshed around like a woodsplitter, but condensation happens all the same.

 

[muddstopper]

Well, I read that article and take that advice with a grain of salt. I cant speak for every piece of equipment on the market, but I know the $250,000 and $1mil stuff I use at work does have suction strainers. I am sure this equipment is built by folks that have tons of hydraulic knowledge and thye use Suction strainers. A 1 1/4in suction strainer, that would fit the majority of the log splitter pumps out there, is only $15.95. Cheap insurance in my opinion.

As for cavitation issues using a strainer. I call bull. If the strainer is to high in the tank and subject to low oil levels, then a maybe. If strainer is in a location where it is subject to returning oil flows, another maybe. Of if the strainer gets clogged, another maybe. Wait, how can a suction filter get clogged if it isnt needed to catch trash. I take suction strainers out every month and wash them off for reuse and I can say from experience, it is very seldom there isnt some little piece of oring, seal or other debris stuck to the outside of those filters. I call the article bull.

Just to add, we have a filtering machine made to take water out of the oil. They suck the oil ot of the hydraulic tanks and run it thru a heater with fine micron filters and it drys the oil.. Run it long enough and it will take the red out of the dextron we use for hyd oil.

 

[Metalmanpro]

My point is a squeaky clean brand new splitter, bulldozer, backhoe, CNC, or whatever with a hyd. or fuel system, baffles or not, in a carbon steel tank, is not likely to stay squeaky clean because of the condensation making rust flakes over time. Period. It is not a closed system when you account for the make-up air. Period. Hope the pictures help.
Water will run through a pump with no problem, but why would you want to run the rust through your pump?
Cavitation can also come from thick frozen oil.
Anyone ever have a piece of heavy equipment with hydraulic steering have the steering wheel go into "freewheel mode" because the oil was too thick to engage the internals?
Solution: Put a heater on the tank, drink a cup of coffee, then get back to work after the oil warms up to operating temp.
Basic understanding of what's going on in the system + basic maintenance + common sense goes a long way towards extending equipment lifespans and reducing expensive repair costs down the road. Maybe not so much in a wood splitter, but the effects are still there.

Do you put rocks (preferably sandstone) in your tank so that when you go wide open down a washboard road they scrub the tank so clean that you don't need a filter?
To each his own.

 

[Metalmanpro]

The tank doesn't care if the fluid is coming into it filtered or not. As long as the outlet is not blocked all is good. The tank doesn't even care if the inside is almost rusted through.
The pump does care. Trash going through precision components with tight tolerances is never good.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

When I was building mine I was given suggestion/guidance from James at Splitez. He builds them for a living and has done so for many years. He said strainer before, filter after. He said a lot of times people use undersized filter products for the size pumps they run. I'm running a 28 GPM and the filter and strainer is quite a bit bigger.

Lenz filter

He recommended this double strainer.

He puts them on the ones he builds and if it was unneeded I'd think he'd save the cost and not put them on. I've had to split a lot of tractors and backhoes because of bad hydraulic pumps due to filtering issues. Doesn't take long to wear one out when the shavings from gears and such get in there. People saving money buy not replacing filters or taking them OUT soon learn an expensive lesson.

If I have to err, I like to be on the side of overkill.

 

[Metalmanpro]

You've got some hours in that splitter.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

You've got some hours in that splitter.

Trust me, time well spent.