Log splitter is aerating the hydraulic oil

[CJ1]

Extend the ram out all the way, with the machine running the fluid level will drop even more plus with a small rez the fluid with cyclone in the tank. That intake must have a minimum of a inch of solid fluid over it when running. I would fill that tank to within 2 inches of the top, run the ram in and out several times to purge the air then let it sit off for 10 minutes allowing the aeration of the oil to escape and then try it again. Research the pump to find the correct hydro oil viscosity for your area temps, likely 46. If it is still sucking air then start with the suction line, end fittings and hoses can crack, pump gaskets and shaft seals can leak allowing air sucked past but typically they leak oil at the leak.

I normally tell everybody to go with aw32, that is a 10wt. 46 is basically a 15w and on a cold day will be on the thick side for a 2 stage pump on a splitter. Let alone the marginal plumbing on most splitters. CJ

 

[SweetMK]

90% of air in oil is caused by one of two problems (or both)
1) there is a leak allowing the system to suck in air.
Air will get sucked into a "leak" that will not let oil to leak out.
The oil is VERY thick compared to air,,
If clamps are used,, consider adding double clamps.

2) the oil return to the tank is above the level of the oil in the tank.
The return needs to ALWAYS be submerged, or foaming will occur.
That can be the result of low oil level, or even parking the splitter at the wrong angle.

Make sure the return is submerged.
3) there is another possibility, with some hydraulic tank designs.
If a tube is directing the return to below the oil in the tank,,
sometimes that tube can be damaged, and foaming occurs,,

 

[DLStryker]

Good, no filter on suction, now look at size and 90 deg fittings. If there is a suction screen make sure it is clean. 3/4" with no hard 90's or high pressure 90's to start. it is possible a hose is collapsing or pulling air but beings it works when warm tells me a restriction somewhere. CJ

Here is the supply line. The white crap is shaving cream. I had the suction hose completely encased in shaving cream. Could not see the joints. Shaving cream about a 1/2 thick covering all. I cycled the cylinder and did not see anywhere air was being sucked through the shaving cream.

 

[DLStryker]

90% of air in oil is caused by one of two problems (or both)
1) there is a leak allowing the system to suck in air.
Air will get sucked into a "leak" that will not let oil to leak out.
The oil is VERY thick compared to air,,
If clamps are used,, consider adding double clamps.

2) the oil return to the tank is above the level of the oil in the tank.
The return needs to ALWAYS be submerged, or foaming will occur.
That can be the result of low oil level, or even parking the splitter at the wrong angle.

Make sure the return is submerged.
3) there is another possibility, with some hydraulic tank designs.
If a tube is directing the return to below the oil in the tank,,
sometimes that tube can be damaged, and foaming occurs,,

Here is a pic of the return line. The line with the filter is return. Suction on right side of tank. I did not put the shaving cream on the return line. Muy buddy did. Not sure why. It's the pressure side and not leaking oil.

 

[DLStryker]

By the way, I filled the 5 gallon tank full last night. It was previously about 1/3 full. I started the engine, did not cycle the cylinder, and I see the oil was aerating. It was pushing air out of the fill tube also. Again, this was with hyd tank full and not cycling the cylinder. My shaving cream test of the supply line did not show any vacuum leak. It's nearly impossible to test the pump shaft for a leak. Cannot get to it directly. All hoses were new two years ago. Splitter worked fine two years ago in summer heat. Has sit two years. Cold outside now. Nothing has changed but time and weather. The pump is about 30 years old. Has had very little use. Whole splitter sat for about 20 years. I refurbished it 2 years ago. Worked perfect then. Seal on hyd pump shaft could have gone bad I guess while sitting the last 2 years. I was able to get quite a bit of shaving cream packed into the pump shaft area, but not able see in there perfectly. I would replace the pump shaft seal, but is no longer in production. I could get a seal, but getting a replacement gasket is a no go. I am familiar with the fact the repalcement gasket has to be the exact same thickness as the original

Any additional suggestions?

 

[Del_]

Here is the supply line. The white crap is shaving cream. I had the suction hose completely encased in shaving cream. Could not see the joints. Shaving cream about a 1/2 thick covering all. I cycled the cylinder and did not see anywhere air was being sucked through the shaving cream.

You don't have shaving creme on the valve packing nut around the valve stem, a prime area for a leak.

Are you sure the shaving creme is a legit method of testing?

I've never heard of it being used, but then there is a lot I've never heard of.

 

[SweetMK]

DEL beat me to it,, that valve,,,
One possible fix is to make sure the valve is 100% open,,

Some valves can seal the packing joint when fully open,,
Open that valve TIGHT!!

If I was gonna leak check that system ,, I would pressurize it to 5-10 psi,, and use Dawn and water,,

 

[dboyd351]

Are you sure the shaving creme is a legit method of testing?

I've never heard of it being used, but then there is a lot I've never heard of.

For awhile I thought the shaving creme was the aereated oil and you were calling it shaving creme (does look a little like it), then I finally realized you were actually applying shaving creme to look for leaks!
Almost like a snipe hunt.

 

[DLStryker]

You don't have shaving creme on the valve packing nut around the valve stem, a prime area for a leak.

Are you sure the shaving creme is a legit method of testing?

I've never heard of it being used, but then there is a lot I've never heard of.

The shaving cream you seen in the pics was what is still there from a few days ago when I tested. The day I tested, I had the complete supply line and connection encapsulated in shaving cream. You could see nothing but shaving cream. I cycled the cylinder and then inspected the shaving cream. So no signs of air being sucked in.

 

[DLStryker]

You don't have shaving creme on the valve packing nut around the valve stem, a prime area for a leak.

Are you sure the shaving creme is a legit method of testing?

I've never heard of it being used, but then there is a lot I've never heard of.

Aha!! I see what you are saying now! I did not think of testing the valve stem. I'll do that. Maybe tomorrow.

 

[DLStryker]

DEL beat me to it,, that valve,,,
One possible fix is to make sure the valve is 100% open,,

Some valves can seal the packing joint when fully open,,
Open that valve TIGHT!!

If I was gonna leak check that system ,, I would pressurize it to 5-10 psi,, and use Dawn and water,,

I'm glad you mentioned pressurizing the system! I did not think of that. I have some high performance two stroke engines. I check for vacuum leaks in the induction system by pressurizing the system and watching the gauge to see if it holds pressure. I will use my same tool to pressurize the hyd tank. Then I will spray the whole supply side with the Dawn and water. I will be able to test the seal on the shaft on the hyd pump that way as well.