log splitter problem

[Mike Van]

You have to use real hydraulic fittings - Don't try iron pipe or plastic on the pressure side. NAPA has them near me, or if you have time to wait, a place called Surplus Center [google it] has really good prices.

 

[Mike Van]

Virginia - some of us get up early -

 

[hunter72]

Farm & Fleet and Tractor Supply also stock Hydraulic fittings.

 

[ThackMan]

View attachment 683084
This is where I put the gauge, I was trying to see if I had pressure at the cylinder. It was not hooked up with the cyclinder

I loosened the bolts that hold the wedge to the rail so that there was no resistance when the wedge traveled but the was no difference in cycle time.

Also the coupler between the motor and pump seems to be working fine. I can see the pump shaft spinning and if I go all the way out with the cylinder I can hear the motor bog down (not stall) So I am assuming that everything is connected properly

I replaced that coupler just recently. The old one somehow separated and motor and the pump each had part of the old coupler on there shaft but were barley touching and making a lot of noise. I raised that pump side up to make contact with the motor side of the coupler. It worked fine for a few weeks but than started moving very slow so I figured it was the coupler, so I replaced that and the hydraulic fluid and filter but still no luck. (btw I used automatic transmission fluid) Not sure if any of this story will help

Thank you for all of your help

You will always get 3000 psi with the gauge like that. You need to install a “T” fitting for the gauge.


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[cumminstinkerer]

If you cannot pull the rod out with some effort while both lines are removed from the cylinder either the rod has gotten bent or it has galled to the gland, it should take some effort but with both cylinder lines removed you should be able to move the rod either way.

 

[homemade]

An air compressor blow gun on one side with the other hose removed should push the piston with ease.

 

[Bigjohnsons34]

Thanks for the quick response.

In my travels today I found a hydraulic supplier and picked up the tee and parts needed to hook up my gauge before the valve.
With the motor idling I have “0” on the gauge. With the piston moving out I have “0” on the gauge. Once the piston bottoms out the gauge moves to 2500-3k. The gauge is brand new.

I am assuming it is a bad pump? Is that something that I can rebuild or just buy a new one?

I have not tried moving the piston by hand yet. The supply line is easy to remove but the return is piped with a small nipple to the valve. A bit of a pain to remove but I will when I have some time if I still need to

Thanks

 

[Mike Van]

your readings sound o.k. to me - Is it still moving as slow? Slow times are a result of low flow, not pressure [unless the pump is stuck in low] But it's not, if you're reading 0. Bring that thing over to Kent, we'll figure it out - Can you take the pressure hose off, have it shoot the oil into a clean bucket for a few seconds. just to see what's coming out?

 

[homemade]

With the motor idling I have “0” on the gauge. With the piston moving out I have “0” on the gauge. Once the piston bottoms out the gauge moves to 2500-3k. The gauge is brand new.

All normal operation from a pressure stand point. Still slow ram movement? Do you hear any whinning from the pump that sounds like cavitation. Could be a clogged filter if is on the suction side of the pump.

 

[VirginiaIron]

A 3k to 5k pound gage may not pick up 100 or 200 psi. Is the piston moving slowly. If everything is right and you have oil, presumably yes due to 3k psi then you can try adjusting your pump hi/low volume/psi kick in/out.
Item #5 on Page #4 is the typical location for this adjustment- your pump may be different. I have never adjusted one due to all of the concern of working on hydraulics. From my understanding this adjustment regulates the hi/low kick in pressure. Some slides may have more resistance causing the pump to think it's under load and only give you low volume/high psi and I think it can be adjusted up to about 600 psi before it changes to low volume.

As always, if you do not feel confident making adjustments or repairs, take it to an expert. Any experts on here care to comment?

 

[triptester]

The problem appears that the bypass for the high flow section of the pump is stuck open. This would be the ball #8 and spring under cap #10.

 

[Bigjohnsons34]

The problem appears that the bypass for the high flow section of the pump is stuck open. This would be the ball #8 and spring under cap #10.

Thank you
Do I just remove the cap and clean the ball/ spring or do I buy a rebuild kit?

I have a haldex pump 718-04127 The PDF that VirginiaIron posted (thanks) was for models 1012,1053,1056. It looks the same as mine

Hopefully I will have time to mess with it tomorrow after work

 

[Wow]

Thank you
Do I just remove the cap and clean the ball/ spring or do I buy a rebuild kit?

I have a haldex pump 718-04127 The PDF that VirginiaIron posted (thanks) was for models 1012,1053,1056. It looks the same as mine

Hopefully I will have time to mess with it tomorrow after work

I have a question about my Huskee 22 ton Splitter.
It works well except fluid leaks around the push rod at the Gland nut.
Could pressure be building up on the Gland seals when on the down stroke?
I'd guess as the ram goes down the fluid on the Gland would be returning to the pump or resivor. Thanks.

 

[homemade]

Down stroke? Is it extending or retracting?

 

[Wow]

Down stroke? Is it extending or retracting?

Extending

 

[Wow]

It's extending. I'd think the pressure would be on the other side of the piston. Unless it's leaking. Then, it should not pressure the Gland seal.

 

[NSMaple1]

There would still be a bit of pressure on it. Not sure how much - but sounds like too much for the condition of the seals.

Maybe you should have started a separate thread?

 

[homemade]

Your seals are bad. Time for a new hydraulic cylinder. Or send it to a repair center to replace the seals.

 

[homemade]

No. Most filters or filter housings have a pressure bypass built in when the filter gets clogged, it will bypass to contour to allow operation. And hydraulic cylinders are designed to be at operating pressure in retract or extend.

Say, you hydraulic cylinder is rated at 3000psi as most modern hydraulic system are, it should be able to hold 3000 psi in extend or retract. Your filter housing, even with a clogged filter, probably only creates 25psi of resistance before the oil is forced through or the bypass opens.

If you retract the piston fully and hold the lever for a second or two, does oil spray/pour out past the seal.

 

[NSMaple1]

I thought the OP said the seal leaked on extending the piston. Isn't the oil psi against that rod seal only the pressure it takes to push the oil back to the tank?

The OP had a slow moving piston.

We are now in full-derail mode...