I am trying to identify my chainsaw. I have had it for ever but seem to have forgotten what type oil is used because it appears that the reservoir for what I thought was the bar oil actually seems to provide the oil for the gas?? So what type of oil do I use?? I bought this used back in the 80’s and used it quite a lot. Then put it away and now I want to use it but seem to have forgotten what type oil goes in there I would like to get a owners manual if possible but I need to know what I have first
Lombard chainsaw
- Thread starter wannabe
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That is for bar oil not mixture oil. The older saws required a 16 to 1 mix but with the oils we have now I would mix to 32to1 and see how it preforms after tuning. I think that saw is older than the Lombard Lighting that my friend had in the late 70s.
Well here is the thing. I thought the same, however when I put bar oil in this location and then tried to start it up with fresh gas/oil, as I cranked on it it got harder, and harder to pull and turn the motor over, it got to the point that you could not pull the cord and turn it over, all most like it was locked up! I pulled the spark plug and then pulled the rope and bar oil/gas came out of the cylinder!!!I have been pulling no problem since. It was suggested that I put fresh straight gas in the reservoir and not put the spark plug back in, but continue to pull star it in order to try and flush the system out
FYI in case it wasn't noticed this is an auto oiler system. There is no plunger in the spot the used to have a manual pump that I have seen in pictures of other models of this style. Any ideas? do I have some type of crack somewhere that is allowing bar oil the get in the cylinder??A small engine mechanic/ instructor is trying to look up any info and I am doing the same so any help would be appreciated. THANKS
FYI in case it wasn't noticed this is an auto oiler system. There is no plunger in the spot the used to have a manual pump that I have seen in pictures of other models of this style. Any ideas? do I have some type of crack somewhere that is allowing bar oil the get in the cylinder??A small engine mechanic/ instructor is trying to look up any info and I am doing the same so any help would be appreciated. THANKS
Looks like a late model AP42 built a lot like the Homelite XL12 and Super XL`s. The gasket between the two case halves is likely deteriorated and letting fuel mix seep into the crankcase.
Better get a clutch cover before you cut anything.
If that auto oiler is driven by crankcase pulses the diaphragm may be bad allowing bar oil in.
Get a parts brake down of the saw online and see if that is it.
Yes get a clutch cover for safety.
Get a parts brake down of the saw online and see if that is it.
Yes get a clutch cover for safety.
Thing is I do remember seeing them with a manual oil plunger/button mounted at the rear of the recoil cover whether it was an automatic oil feed as well I cannot remember as it has been more than 40 years since I last seen one around these parts.
Rocker59
ArboristSite Member
I agree with the AP42 ID. There is a Lombard thread at https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/lombard-chainsaws.232298/#post-4231750 that discusses the oiler duckbill check valve. Never noticed that they made a model without the manual oiler before. Also noticed the boss is there next to the spark plug for the decomp. Could be a Campbell Hausfeld thing.
I had a faint memory that the AP42 had one of those duckbill valves in the oil line but it has been too many years since I have even seen one around here, never been many in these parts to play with.
Thanks everyone for the replies. I guess I am going to have to get a parts break down /owner's manual. I do have the clutch cover, it's off right now while I try and figure out what is happening.
I will check out decomp thing you mentioned. Anyone else with tips or access to manuals please send my way
I will check out decomp thing you mentioned. Anyone else with tips or access to manuals please send my way
I'm pretty sure I have a clutch cover for that saw. If you'd like it you can have it for the shipping cost.
Spouted offer but I do have one.in a previous someone mentioned a decomp bottom,? I am Addis couple more pictures
You can see where the 2 lines come out of the bar oil reservoir,one goes towards the chain and clutch area the other goes to top of the block just behind the fuel line
The spot to the right of the spark plug is questionable as to what is it for
Any ideas could that be the decomp location and it’s broken?
You can see where the 2 lines come out of the bar oil reservoir,one goes towards the chain and clutch area the other goes to top of the block just behind the fuel line
The spot to the right of the spark plug is questionable as to what is it for
Any ideas could that be the decomp location and it’s broken?
Attachments
Allow me to clarify, when I pulled the sparkplug out it had bar and chain oil on it, then when I pulled on the rope more bar oil came out. I have poured the gas from the tank and letting it settle to see what it looks like
why would there be 2 separate lines from what should be the bar oiler reservoir? See the 2nd set of pictures I posted
One line for the output from oil reservoir to the bar and one to get the crankcase pulses to the oil pump or check valve by or in oil tank if it is pressurizing the oil tank to force oil to the bar.
That makes perfect sense, however, how could bar oil get into the cylinder? the zone next to the spark plug hole did have decomp valve there. You say a check valve, I wonder if that was what someone else was talking about. IHe was talking way over my head. Something about a Duckbill check valve? Anyone know where I can look for one?
This 90 degree fitting screwed into the oil tank is where the duckbill checkvalve is supposed to be.
Its made to let crankcase pressure into the tank to pressurize it so it will oil. If its bad it will also let oil get sucked back into the crankcase when its under vacuum.
Once you remove the fitting from the tank there is a sleeve in it to hold the duckbill valve in place. (its probably not there anymore) I think I used a 10-32 tap into the sleeve then threaded a 10-32 screw into it to pull the sleeve out.
A common easy to find Green Poulan or Black Homelite duckbill checkvalve will fit right in it then just press the sleeve back in.
Here is a checkvalve https://www.ebay.com/itm/1211362844...NZScKu1N4Zay76+p0GbL4uEaA=|tkp:Bk9SR-LoqOffZA
THANKS A BUNCH now I understand
