Lombard Super AL-42

[jbowlin723]

Hello everyone! I am new to this site. I came across a Lombard Super AL-42 that I want to get running. I have been working on 2 cycle engines for about 2 years and love it. I usually buy stuff cheap, fix it up then resell it. Some stuff I keep because I think it's cool.
I bought an old Dayton saw for $5.00 to fix up and they threw in the Lombard for free.
It has almost no paint left - it has enough that I know it was reddish orange with a cream color on some parts. I degreased it because it was covered in dirt and grime. The oil tank and gas tank are dry. It has good compression and it all seem complete. Old spark plug on it - a champion Tj-8j and I spark tested it and there is no spark. I think this one has points in it which leads me to my first issue. I can't get the flywheel off. I need a good puller. I bought a knockoff stihl one and almost pulled the threads out of the flywheel. Luckily that didn't happen. So I need a good puller to buy. It's really on there - I tried the pry and whack the nut method too.
Other things: It's missing the on/off metal piece at the switch and the nut is gone too. The switch was just flopping around but it's hooked up. I am missing a pulley cover screw too. One had the head broken off but I will look into that at some point. Right now - I want to get it running then figure out how to make it look nice again. I already soaked the bar and chain in vinegar because it was solid rust. That came out awesome and I can read Oregon right on it now with a sharp chain! I would appreciate any guidance on what to do next.

 

[pioneerguy600]

https://www.acresinternet.com/cscc....c23743ed8cc0841988256c5a000f3bc6?OpenDocument They looked almost like a Homelite XL12

 

[Rocker59]

There is a Lombard Chainsaw thread in the Chainsaw forum that might be helpful (especially for the oiler duckbill).

 

[Chris Ross]

Consider investing in a quality flywheel puller specifically designed for small engines, as this can prevent damage and ensure a proper fit.


For the ignition issue, check the points for corrosion or wear; cleaning or replacing them might restore spark.


Once you get it running, you can use high-temperature paint for a durable finish, which will also help maintain its appearance over time. Good luck with your restoration!

 

[jbowlin723]

Hello everyone - back again. I FINALLY got the flywheel off. Thanks Leon from Leon's chainsaw and repair. Now on to the points. I used a little fine sandpaper in between the contacts. I also discovered the plug wire has dry rotted and there is a spot missing where the wire is exposed. I will patch that. I am getting spark now but not frequently. It will spark early and once and then nothing. I am going to patch the wire and make sure the gap is .015 and try again.

 

[jbowlin723]

Another thing - there was this sticky, white tape on the wire near where the exhaust is. Is that something someone added or factory? I took it off thinking it was a previous repair but nothing was damaged underneath. Wondering if that is to protect from heat?

 

[pioneerguy600]

Many horizontal engine saws had a sheath of heat resistant woven material that covered the sparkplug wire to prevent the wire from contacting the cylinder fins. I have not seen sticky tape of any kind from the factory so most likely a previous owner/repair guy added the tape as an insulator to prevent the wire from contacting the hot cylinder fins.If you intend to run the saw any amount it would be prudent to make or find a sheath to protect the wire.

 

[jbowlin723]

Many horizontal engine saws had a sheath of heat resistant woven material that covered the sparkplug wire to prevent the wire from contacting the cylinder fins. I have not seen sticky tape of any kind from the factory so most likely a previous owner/repair guy added the tape as an insulator to prevent the wire from contacting the hot cylinder fins.If you intend to run the saw any amount it would be prudent to make or find a sheath to protect the wire.

Thanks - it does have the woven sheath on the wire where the fins are. The tape was beyond that closer to the exhaust. I will just rewrap in electrical tape and keep an eye on it. I will try to check the gap tonight and then check for spark again. It has the older spark plug on it - a tj8j if I recall.

 

[pioneerguy600]

The condenser has to store the electrical charge until it needs to be releasd to the sparkplug, they dry out with age and often needs to be replaced after they age out. There is a test for them charging with a multimeter a bit of Google searching would bring up the method and how to test.

 

[jbowlin723]

Update: I tested the coil and it seems to check out. The condenser has a rubber top on it and I tested it using the wire on the side. It didn't really show me anything. I then cleaned all connections and took things off and put them back on. I wrapped the break in the cable and then accidently pulled the boot off. It was really rotten at the end. I shortened it a tad and twisted it back on. I also had to create a new kill switch wire with new connectors as the old ones were looking broken. After all that - I have spark during testing. I am confused on something though. If I completely remove the kill switch and wire - I get no spark - is that normal? And I ONLY get spark if the kill switch is in one position and the switch touches the frame in a good spot. It's difficult - I have to move it around and then it will work. I am hoping that's normal. It will be mounted to the cover and will be grounded I suppose and in theory should still work but I wanted to be sure before I put it back together. I thought that by removing the kill switch - it would spark all the time but maybe I am wrong. Thanks.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Not normal, the coil would generate spark full time, the kill switch just routes the electrical/spark to ground thus shutting down the engine. Did you remove the coil and clean up under it pus really clean the mounting bosses? Replace the coil and set the gap between the coil laminates and the flywheel to .010 -.012 , a business card works well for spacing the air gap between the two. The kill switch does need to be grounded to the saws frame where ever it is mounted.

 

[jbowlin723]

Thanks for your response. The gap between the coil ends and the flywheel seems hard set because everything is mounted together. It's a long metal piece with the points, the condensor, coil and wires all in one thing. I did check the gap and it's a business card width (checked before and after). Points gap is .015. Would pictures help - I can try uploading those.

 

[jbowlin723]

Looks like this. Got this from a website but it's the same one. It's also missing the mounting bolt all the way to the left so someone has been in there at some point. The kill wire plugs into the area on the left - underneath where the red wire is.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Looks like this. Got this from a website but it's the same one. It's also missing the mounting bolt all the way to the left so someone has been in there at some point. The kill wire plugs into the area on the left - underneath where the red wire is.
View attachment 1220765

The entire plate shifts on that type of setup, the slotted holes in the frame allow for movement of the coil in or out from the flywheel. The points are set by loosening the screw on the anvil end of the points frame and shifting the points frame in or out at the crankshaft. It sounds like the coil air gap is good at the business card thickness and the .015 is acceptable for the points.