low vibe chains

[tree_reaper]

Where can one find a chain with very small rakes on it ? The low vibe chains I use now (RS)seem to resrict the saws from cutting. I file these rakes down for better performance and it definitely works. Would be nice to be able to buy chains without having to file the rakes down.

 

[Ryan Willock]

i'm assuming that you mean RM chain with the tripple hump tie straps???if thats the case then switch to RS, or if thats not enough (can't imagine it not being good enough!!!) then switch to oregon. I think they have some rakers that are a little bit smaller:angel:

 

[Crofter]

Tree Reaper,

There is some confusion in terms here, so I am guessing a bit.For smoothest low vibration cutting what you need is chain with a small profile cutter. Do NOT lower the depth guides. Tell us what size saw you are using and what you are cutting.

Frank

 

[Rotax Robert]

I believe they call it Full Comp Chain that is sharp. Also a faster saw may help.

 

[tree_reaper]

I am using a 33RS 66; 3/8; 18"STIHL on the MS310 & the Husky 372XP (can't imagine NOT having enough speed or power) 73LG 072G; 3/8; 20"(.058)OREGON. As far as filing the rakes go, I don't file the rake completely down, approx. 1 mil off the tip. The saw cuts quicker with less vibe. A tip from my dad who's 365 Husky has had the chains this way 6 yrs. without doing any repairs to the saw & the chains the same way for 10 yrs on his Sears craftsman( the oil pump went out; still ran, figured he got his monies worth; step up to a Husky) "Try it , you'll like it."

Anyway, Rotax hit it on the head. I believe it is called a full comp chain. Does anyone have a web address of someone who carries these?

 

[Crofter]

Tree-reaper

You say you take an additional mil off the "rake" That is approx. 40 thousandths of an inch in addition to the original 25 thou. and you say it makes it cut smooth. I must be missing something. If I get the depth guides down beyond 30 thou. it makes my saws cut rough and grabby and slap my face with brush.

Frank

 

[glens]

t_r,

The chains you specified are all full complement chains.

Perhaps you'd be interested in http://www.oregonchain.com/38.htm where it states that the "JP/LP" chains are "low vibration"?

At the risk of offending you, I'd like to recommend you visit http://madsens1.com/oregon4.htm and look it over.  Then read through http://madsens1.com/oregon5.htm as well.  Finally, read through http://madsens1.com/oregon2.htm (where they erroneously use the word "compliment" [as in "I like your saw"] instead of "complement" [meaning quantity or amount]).

Some here say to take the depth gauges down progressively further than .025 as the cutter length decreases, so maintaining consistent cutting efficiency.  I can see that, and agree, but I don't believe it's necessarily for the reasons usually stated (angles of attack &c.) as much as it is that the top plate is getting narrower and therefore not slicing as much wood.  Since that's the case, the chips would necessarily be smaller (less "efficiency" as compared to new) but that also means the depth of cut can be set proportionately greater so that the same amount of chip is produced (new chain "efficiency") as when the cutters are wider.

You say you take the "rakers" down another .001 (mil) which is fairly inconsequential if practically measurable.

Until you had specified the chain you are using, I (and I think several others) thought you were speaking of the bumpers on either the drive links or tie straps, as the "safety chains" are variously configured.  Those bumpers would in fact leave some less room for chips, especially in long cuts.

For an interesting idea in cutters, have a look at the Bullet chain (not for trees) at http://cuttersedge.com/

 

[stihltech]

rakers

Are you taking a little off the side of the raker? As the tooth is filed back, it moves behind the raker. Take 1 good swipe at the side with a file, you will like the difference.

 

[tree_reaper]

I must be refering to the bumpers(between the cutters). I hit these with a file 3 times across the tops( my approx. was an estimate only). Sorry for the confusion. I know it cuts better by doing this. If the chains I'm using are full comp then I will continue to hit the tops of these bumpers. No offense taken fellas.

 

[tree_reaper]

glens

I went to the sites you recommended. THANKS!! They are very informative. Gives me a much better understanding of the chain and how it works.