Lube of the Needle Bearings under the Clutch Drum

[huskihl]

I squirt the needle bearings occasionally through the port on the end of the crank. Like others said, though, all that goes away rather quickly when the thing is in use so most times the needles operate with a minimal skim of grease on them...must be enough.

And I get the idea they are only turning at idle, which means low speed and low load.

Thanks y'all. I feel like less of a slacker now.

Some outboard clutches have the grease feature in the center of the crank. Don’t know of any inboard models that do

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

I’ll clean and grease the clutch bearing when I feel it needs it, not necessarily on a regular schedule. I’ve never had one fail personally but I also take care of my equipment. Some bars have a grease hole for the sprocket which is nice because at least you have that option. Stihl bars don’t have it and the only time I’ve seen those fail is when someone runs a saw with no bar oil for too long. At that point the bar is ruined anyway.

 

[bwalker]

When I used to let someone else work on my saw. My mechanic would grease the needles, when it crossed his bench. I do it myself now and sharpen everything myself. When a saw wears out or I need oil. I guess I will see my dealer again.

It takes me 20 to 30 minutes to get down to my needles. Clean the thing up a bit and put it back together.
Do you changenoil on your truck and grease the ball joints when you see them?
I know what my time is worth. That's a $100 for greasing my saw,and blowing out the gunk and not having crap break. I've never had the carbon build up and score my piston or crud heat up and smoke my bearings.

You do you

Changing your oil or greasing your ball joints isn't close to the same thing.
The clutch bearing is used so little and the tolerances are so sloppy to begin with they essentially last indefinitely with not maintenance. When you greasing them the grease is expelled almost instantly anyways. Same story for greasing bar tips.

 

[LuDookie]

I grease mine every once in a while. I have one saw that has the grease hole and I hit it a few times a year. Otherwise bar oil keeps them pretty well coated. Only dry bearing I ever found was on my only inboard clutch, the MS261. Never had on fail, but if they do I would imagine it would mess up the shaft and that’s not an easy fix.

 

[stihltech]

Not an issue unless it gets so dry in roughens the clutch drum bore and/or the crank. See it occasionally. I just call it part of a tune up in the shop.

 

[SimonHS]

Not an issue unless it gets so dry in roughens the clutch drum bore and/or the crank. See it occasionally. I just call it part of a tune up in the shop.

Like this one? Early model MS261.

 

[ZeroJunk]

I worked on two MS250's just yesterday. On the first one the clutch drum had eaten through the crankcase and had the oiler sucking air. The second was almost as bad , but not ruined yet. Cage bearing out of both.

 

[sand sock]

Gordy at left coast saws, greases needles. go ahead and buy yourself another farmer tech or pualinn saw from aldiis or odd lots

 

[woodfarmer]

If they were meant to be greased often the manufacturer would have made a provision for this I believe. On a 2165/365 I don’t think the hole on the end of the shaft actually does anything.

 

[bwalker]

Gordy at left coast saws, greases needles. go ahead and buy yourself another farmer tech or pualinn saw from aldiis or odd lots

Gee, Gordy from YouTube said so. I'm on board now!
Try a little more doing and less watching before you form a firm opinion.
The bearing is only in play when the saw is idling. The clearance of the bearing to the crank shaft is very sloppy. Saw dust and centrifugal force quickly expells any grease present. I've worn saws out logging and never greased nor replaced a clutch bearing.

 

[HarleyT]

The worst thing to happen is when foreign material gets wound up in there.

 

[Puffie40]

The worst thing to happen is when foreign material gets wound up in there.

Or if the grease that is there gets contaminated - it becomes an abrasive paste that will grind your crank down.

A pump or two of grease whenever you have the chain guard off is probably enough, then when changing out the sprocket, thoroughly clean the crankshaft and repack the bearing.

 

[lone wolf]

Like this one? Early model MS261.View attachment 1048382

Are you putting forth the proposition that not greasing will cause this? All my saws dont look like that in there and I rarely grease any of them. How do you know what caused that exactly?

 

[ZeroJunk]

A few weeks back I had a MS500I that had ruined the crankcase from running after the needle cage had disintegrated. Just ate it up. A week later a had a MS880 that the complaint was loosing power in the cut. The needle bearing was gone and it was cocking the drum over against the brake band.

Are ya'll in some alternative reality or something.

 

[coffeebrk]

My Sthil ms261 service manual indicates when removing and installing the clutch drum to clean needle cage and crankshaft stub and lubricate the needle cage and crankshaft stub

 

[lone wolf]

A few weeks back I had a MS500I that had ruined the crankcase from running after the needle cage had disintegrated. Just ate it up. A week later a had a MS880 that the complaint was loosing power in the cut. The needle bearing was gone and it was cocking the drum over against the brake band.

Are ya'll in some alternative reality or something.

No I just aint doing what these others are to my saws. Im not sure how they do it yet.

 

[SimonHS]

Are you putting forth the proposition that not greasing will cause this? All my saws dont look like that in there and I rarely grease any of them. How do you know what caused that exactly?

I believe that the early model MS261 saws (pre 2015) had softer cranks where the bearing rides. Making them prone to wear. Lack of lubrication didn't help the issue.

I bought this saw as a non runner. It is in great condition except for this worn crank. It is sitting in my shed waiting until I have the time and motivation to put a new crank in it.

 

[lone wolf]

I believe that the early model MS261 saws (pre 2015) had softer cranks where the bearing rides. Making them prone to wear. Lack of lubrication didn't help the issue.

I bought this saw as a non runner. It is in great condition except for this worn crank. It is sitting in my shed waiting until I have the time and motivation to put a new crank in it.

Take a file to it and see.

 

[bwalker]

A few weeks back I had a MS500I that had ruined the crankcase from running after the needle cage had disintegrated. Just ate it up. A week later a had a MS880 that the complaint was loosing power in the cut. The needle bearing was gone and it was cocking the drum over against the brake band.

Are ya'll in some alternative reality or something.

Some guys can break an anvil...

 

[MacAttack]

Ive had clutch drum bearings that were essentially seized from the grease turning into solid black crud. The chains didn't want to stop turning at idle (old saws without chain brakes). Some cleaning and 30 weight oil fixed it.
My maintenance is to drip some 30wt down into the needles and spin the clutch drum. (Not too much oil). It keeps em running smooth.