Mac 795 Tilly swap

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Im not sure i know what your sayin, but the bit was just what i had close to me that would allow me to feed the line through the fuel lid & retrieve it wit the pliers.

the pliers where the most important part of the operation..


sounds like u got it though..
 
FIRE IN THE HOLE!

It's late and I try to keep the noise down after nine. I'm in the country but there are 3 other houses back here and I try to limit my saw work to test firing only this late, but she thundered for about a second before I flipped the ignition off. Never even got the decomp lever down.

This saw gave me 2 "firsts". 1. I have never had a saw I worked on start on the first pull, this one did. 2. I have never fired a 100cc+ saw before. This could be even more addicting than CAD! Geez, I'm pumped!

Most likely I won't get it into the wood until Thursday morning, too much going on tomorrow. I have some Oak rounds in the 18 to 24 range and 18 to 28 inches long I'll go after with it. You bet I'll have the video camera out there.
 
Okay guys. Got the holiday/family obligations behind me and carb bugaboo solved. A couple of slurps of fuel down the throat (the saw, not me) and she runs like a watch... at idle.

Oh, it rips up the revs fine, but I hear "something" that sounds like two cedar shakes slapping together. I've had this thing all apart to clean it and never saw anything amiss. I have NO clue. Any ideas what that sound is? I'm nervous to wind her out or complete tuning and make some cuts until I figure out what that is. Once this is solved, I know I will enjoy it. A few throttle blips have already clued me in to the T O R Q U E in this thing.

Sorry about the vid quality, but listen more than look. I know, get it off the concrete. Believe me, it wasn't there long.

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I could do that, not sure how the cover and starter would line up to get it started... Maybe no chain? Last time I fired a saw without B&C or clutch cover... well... there's a dent in the garage door where the hub hit it on it's way out... Took 2 days and the dog to find it out in the planting beds. Best point that dog's ever been on!!!
 
No chain, no flywheel cover, ignition clearance verified... same sound.

Stumped. No end play on crank. No rattling when you wiggle the flywheel indicating play in the rod bearing. It's all tight. I can't locate the sound, seems to be internal. Not on the exterior. I HATE the thought of pulling this whole saw apart. It may have to be done unless someone has an idea.
 
Another thought,
I could be piston slap.
Meaning to much clearance
between piston skirt and cylinder.

How much of this saw did you have appart?


Lee
 
Never had the jug off. Compression was good and it looked super clean through the plug hole and the exhaust port so I left it alone.

Thanks Lee, you've been a huge help on this project. Any easy way to verify piston slap or am I in for a tear down?

Sorry for the questions and slow progress. If this was a newer saw, I'd have had it in a pieces and the problem solved by now. On these vintage ones I find myself being much more deliberate and reverential in how I handle them.
 
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It sounds like either piston slap as Lee said or something is hanging up in the recoil. Those right hand start saws have a more complicated set-up than standard saws. Go through that recoil assembly and you might find something is sticking in there. Also check the clutch.
 
It sounds like either piston slap as Lee said or something is hanging up in the recoil. Those right hand start saws have a more complicated set-up than standard saws. Go through that recoil assembly and you might find something is sticking in there. Also check the clutch.

+1,,, it sounded like the clutch to me, the way teh chain was creeping, and stopping in the vid,,, could be something rubbing in teh recoil, also...
 
One more thought, Might be something
behind the flywheel. Loose or broken bolt,
points cover.
Is the bearing in the clutch drum good.
If the drum is really loose, it might make
a good noise.
As Jacob stated, I would disect the recoil
and clutch first.


Lee
 
I haven't had much shop time lately, too much real work to do or it's been too cold. I got back into it this week. I STILL cannot find the source of the noise. Actually I couldn't find ANYTHING wrong other than a small piece of what looks like band-aid material that I fished out of the combustion chamber. I am powerless to explain how it got there and why it didn't burn up when I ran the saw a few weeks ago.

Wednesday evening I put it back together and tried to start it only to discover I now have a dead ignition... It's been in its place on the bench where I've been working on it off and on for 2 months. What should I check? Everything is visually good, plug gap at .020 (new plug), module gap at .020, points gap at .017. Could the PB Blaster I had to use on the flywheel to get it off have fried something? I kept a fan on it for 36 hours drying up whatever I couldn't wipe up. Still no worky... I don't get a lot of shop time so when I am out there I want the minutes to count. Finishing this one up has already taken too long.
 
I suggest you remove the flywheel and clean and gap the points, again. When you replace the flywheel, set the coil/flywheel gap to 0.010".

While a lot of folks complain about the ignition on the old saws, I find the point/condenser systems to be quite reliable and besides, I can trouble shoot each and every component with a simple Volt/Ohm meter.

Don't overlook the obvious like the ignition switch or wire.

Mark
 
Discount Marine

Can you send me the number of Discount Marine. Thanks Tom

Nice project.
As for the fuel line, You can try
Bob"s lawnmower in NY
or Discount Marine in MI.
You should be able to find it at one
or the other.
If you need contact info let me know.
I also have the IPL if you need part #


Lee
 
I have no idea what I did or where the sound came from, but I don't care, it's GONE. I rebuilt the ignition last night and test fired this morning. YES:blob2:.

Video to come later today!
 
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