making your own loops.

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tony marks

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never done it and dont know the first thing about it .. except to put the right number of drive links for what ever i need. is this something ,a man ought do .
or is there more difficulty involved than appears to be... also whats a good set up for this,, for personal use... thanks
ps ive got a good many chains that dont fit any thing im using.
 
bailys has a chain chart that a big sticker. just stick it to a work bench. i think they threw it in for free when i ordered an oregon breaker and spinner from them some years back.

it'll keep you busy on those rainy days.
 
Hi Tony, buy the Oregon pocket breaker, throw away the punch that comes with it and use a good punch made of tool steel. They are great to use in the shop, cement floor is good, or a stump in the bush. On used chain, reuse the parts you punched out, there is more than enough meat left to peen a mushroom head with a ball peen. Finesse is the key and a light touch. The parts will hold for the life of the chain if your sprocket is in good shape.
Hope this helps.
Frank's Planks
 
Tony, I would go with the bench tools. The punch and the spinner will each cost you about $60. Then you will need one of the little anvils.

Of course you will then be able to use roll chain.

I happen to prefer not to reuse and reset the rivets. It raises a safety issue. But the liability concerns are different if you are not doing it for the public.

All of this stuff is available from Baileys, or from a Stens, Rotary, Silver Streak (Oregon) or Total (Tilton) dealer.
 
Hi Tony, not all chain tools are created equal, especially the spinners. Some of the cheap ones don`t line up between the anvils and you can`t get a good spun head. The red ones that Jeff Sikkema sells are very good quality at a fair price. They seem to be the same ones that Oregon sells to the saw shops, but for less money. A drop or two of oil on the rivet as you spin helps make a nice head.

Which breaker you use doesn`t seem to be as important as which anvil you use on the breaker. Unfortunately I don`t know the key to which brands have a better anvil but the adjustable anvil is very nice. You want to fully support the chain on both sides of the rivet you are pressing so that you don`t bend the chain. Unfortunately not all breakers have enough room under the head to accomodate the thickness of the adjustable breaker. If you buy a breaker with the adjustable anvil right from the start your problem is solved.

There isn`t any rocket science involved in making chain loops. Practice and consideration of any problems you might have will get you through, you`ll be an expert in no time.

With your obvious desire to learn to be an expert sharpener I think you could set your self up for a rainy day business sharpening chains and spinning loops. It seems that most consumers are acustomed to paying nearly double for chain loops so you could sell for a few bucks less and have them beating your door down. Next you`ll be doing carb rebuilds and solving 90% of all the homeowners chainsaw problems, LOL. Just put a small ad in the Pennysaver or local classifieds.

Russ
 
i kinda like Bailey's Woodsman Pro Pre-maid loops for the price/perforrmance; esp. on sale or 10/per.

To me, kinda closes the savings gap of doin' your own werk, esp. initial, tooling up, learning time, storage, stocking etc., and having real pro do it too, indv. mark, bag, ready to go.

Don't think they use that Blue can of polishing compound though on the chains.....

:alien:
 
Save your money on the breaker, and just use your bench grinder
to grind off the heads of the rivets off of the strap you want to
remove, and just pop apart the chain by bending the loop.
I have tried many breakers and anvils, and even with the best
of them, still occaisionally bend a drive link trying to break it.
Once I wised up, I never have any problems with my quick, cheap
grind method. Just my opinion.
Fish
 
How exactly does a rivet spinner work? I was just wondering if anyone had any pictures of making a chain loop.
 
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