Just meant something you’ll notice the difference in, He doesn’t need a pro saw or a $300 pole saw.
Manual pole saw? Infrequent use, but long-term ownership
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The OP was asking for input and opinions. If his mind was made up, he would already have purchased the one referenced.
Philbert
I have a Stihl that’s worked well for me. Extends to 18’.
Tigwelder83
ArboristSite Operative
Have the 13' silky that uses zubat blades, not cheap, but well worth the money. Have 6 gas powered chainsaws, but prefer a mechanical pole saw
Way back I had a gas-powered pole saw. It was awkward to use, didn't have great range, and could not do nearly as clean a job as a manual polesaw. I got rid of it.
The Silky blade I use is a Zubat. I fitted it to a cheap (Corona?) homeowner adjustable fiberglass handle. I use that thing a lot, carry it up into the canopy when climbing even. Nice tool. I think I'm on my 2nd or 3rd blade. My assistant broke the first one--it flexes some, so you need to use care not to get it in a bind.
Put that thing in competition with my other polesaw, the Stihl model, and that Stihl saw would hang its head in shame.
The Silky blade I use is a Zubat. I fitted it to a cheap (Corona?) homeowner adjustable fiberglass handle. I use that thing a lot, carry it up into the canopy when climbing even. Nice tool. I think I'm on my 2nd or 3rd blade. My assistant broke the first one--it flexes some, so you need to use care not to get it in a bind.
Put that thing in competition with my other polesaw, the Stihl model, and that Stihl saw would hang its head in shame.
Like anything else, it depends on how you use it. In storm cleanup, I have cut some fairly large diameter (14-inch?) limbs with a powered pole saw (STIHL MS131), that would have been very difficult to do with a manual pole saw. Sometimes access is difficult, but I can place the bar and pull the trigger, where I would have trouble doing the motions. Sometimes, I have to move quickly once the limb releases. Sometimes, I am using it horizontally to reach into a tangled mess from several feet away, where I don't want to climb in among limbs which may release unexpectedly.
If I was an arborist in a bucket, or tied into a tree, it might be different. When I am pruning trees in my yard for aesthetics, I like using the simpler pole saw. Lots of different situations. Good to have options. I do know guys that had cheap, powered pole saws who cussed at them. I have used my cheap Remington electric down in Katrina (all we could get) and my battery powered ones in other storm clean up efforts. They don't have the reach, but really save the arms, as long as the chains are sharp!
Philbert
If I was an arborist in a bucket, or tied into a tree, it might be different. When I am pruning trees in my yard for aesthetics, I like using the simpler pole saw. Lots of different situations. Good to have options. I do know guys that had cheap, powered pole saws who cussed at them. I have used my cheap Remington electric down in Katrina (all we could get) and my battery powered ones in other storm clean up efforts. They don't have the reach, but really save the arms, as long as the chains are sharp!
Philbert
Just be careful cutting limbs from the ground. Plan how you go about it one limb at a time and be ready to get the hell out of the way, fast. Most limbs requiring more than a single stroke to get through come down vertically. There’s a lot of spring there that can propel the butt end with plenty of force to make for a bad day. Long limbs are always trying to take me out. Also, those poles are perfect for guiding the limbs right into you. When I cut a limb I plan on it hitting my pole and coming at me. So I set myself up with an unobstructed path so I can pull out away from it in case it does. Respect that even what seems to be a small limb can hurt you.
I've got a couple of them, both pretty old, one aluminum the other fiberglass. Main use has been pruning my orchard.
Watch out dropping stuff, wear goggles or safety shield, I came close to poking an eye out, when a hung up pruned off sucker on an apple tree hit me.
Watch out dropping stuff, wear goggles or safety shield, I came close to poking an eye out, when a hung up pruned off sucker on an apple tree hit me.
If I climb up in the tree I've had good success using a battery powered Millwaukee saws all. Lots quicker than hand sawing and can make a pretty clean cut.
This is mostly smaller limbs , 1-3", in my orchard/fruit trees.
Anybody else use a saws all?
This is mostly smaller limbs , 1-3", in my orchard/fruit trees.
Anybody else use a saws all?
I use a recip saw with a a pruning blade for working in tight hedges, etc., especially where the branches tend to whip around a lot, and there isn't easy access for a lopper.
I use one with a cheap / disposable wood cutting blade for roots in dirt.
Philbert
If your hand saw cuts a 1" branch slower than a sawzall you have the wrong hand saw. My Silky Sugoi will zip through a 1" branch in one or two strokes. Its a whole lot easier to carry around too.
I have also used a battery-powered recip saw doing storm damage work, where it's hard to tell if it is a tree mixed with a house, or a house mixed with a tree, Used a 'carbide, nail embedded, demolition blade' (all those words are important; there are so many variations) to separate building materials from tree stuff, before the chainsaws come in. I once kept a single blade going for 3 days, and lots of battery charges! Cut up to 8-inch oak limbs with it, along with studs, plywood, particle board, corrugated metal, wiring, conduit, . . . . Not a place where you would want to use your Silky Sugoi. I do have a folding Silky hand saw for trail work, which is nice when you don't want to drag out a saw, PPE, etc.
Again, different tools for different applications.
Philbert
Again, different tools for different applications.
Philbert
I use a sawzall often for root pruning. I've tried using for pruning, but agree that Silky handsaws are faster, easier to control, lighter to carry and make a clearer cut.
I have two manual shaft saws, as I utilize one frequently. I have a Silky sharp edge (fail to remember precisely which one) that I custom-fitted to a modest property holder shaft outfit for which the first Chinese-made cutting edge demonstrated inadequately. It has something like a 15- - 16' reach. I likewise have a Stihl unit that will reach to 21', that I utilize just when I can't reach with the Silky. The Stihl sharp edge cuts fine and dandy, however in no way like just as the Silky.
Have you or @ATH. Tried a pruning blade in the sawzall?
Yes...I use those all the time for roots. I've tried on other pruning... periodically still make that mistake.
Thursday, we pruned a birch for a client. He asked if we could leave a few 4-5" logs. Had already put the chainsaw away, but had the sawzall out to cut a root. Before cutting that root (and obviously dulling the blade) I went to cut the logs to length. Half way through first cut, I quit, got the Sugoi and it took less than half the time to make a full cut than the sawzall pruning blade did the partial cut.
Yes. For pruning. But I use a coarse wood cutting blade for roots, due to all the dirt.
Philbert
Curious thing--post # 35 above, by a new member this morning from India, is nothing more than a translation of part of my post #7 from earlier this week. Have seen another similar thing here in the past. Bot in the making?
Here's this morning's post from a new member today, and then the original that I wrote earlier.
Here's this morning's post from a new member today, and then the original that I wrote earlier.
I'm not too concerned about this. Just curious.
After hearing the good things, I'd like to retro-fit my pole saw with a Sliky blade.
What's a good source, maybe with pictures so I can see what fitment issues there might be?
What's a good source, maybe with pictures so I can see what fitment issues there might be?
