Maximizing firewood cutting performance from a MS260?

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rustyb

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I opened the muffler and did the carb swap but would like to do some more.....without sending it away to have ported, etc. I'm basically looking to maximize this saws firewood cutting efficiency. 75% of the wood I cut is 16" in dia and less. Roughly 20% is in the 18" range and the remaining 5 % in the 20-24" range. The density of the wood varies all across the board.

Currently, my saw is totally stock with the exception of the aforementioned mods. I'm also running an 18" bar.

Would a different chain, 16" bar and perhaps a different sprocket give my saw enough of an efficiency gain to justify the $? Is there anything else I can do myself?

Thanks.
 
Well you said you didn't want to spend the $$$ to have it ported and you've already opened up the muffler, are you using full chisel chain?? When that bar wears out or you bend it I would switch to a 16''. On that size saw thats what I really like to run.
 
its my opinion that the 026 excells at tree work ..but mine will buck fire wood,, well enough as it ll takes down pressure in hardwood,well....just my guess but if u not gonna have it modded.. your best progess will be in getting the chain rite ,,and mabe looking at thining your oil a tad if its real cold..just my opinion ,,as ive owned one all of a month now,,so theys some here mite know that saw better than me..
 
Hi rustyb

The 026 ought to be doing well for what you describe if it is running properly. Remember that it`s a small saw. If tach tuning, tune it to run at around 13,500rpm rather than the factory spec of 14k, you`ll have more power.

As far as hardware mods are concerned, I`d stick with the 7 tooth rim on the 026 and probably opt for a 16" bar when your 18" is worn out, but 2" of unused bar shouldn`t make that much difference. The difference between your stock Stihl bar and a good replacement will probably be significant. Those Stihl sprocket noses of late( past few years) seem to be low quality and power robbing. The best bar I`ve use with the 026 is the Windsor Mini Pro which weras well and has a nice free wheeling nose.

Your chain type is also very important. Get full chisel now if you are running the semi, and forget the safety chain. I like the Oregon 22LP which does have bumper links or 26RS. I don`t believe the lower profile chains cut as fast. As always, sharp is crucial, especially with small displacement saws.

Russ
 
I have tried an 8 tooth with the .325 on a 260, I think you would gain only in softer wood less than 6-8 inches in diamiter. Otherwise it is dificult to keep the saw from getting bogged.
 
I agree with Timberwolf, I`ve had the same results. I also found it to be a real PITA to install the chain on the 8 tooth and bar.

The 8 tooth rim for the 026 is the same one that the 036 runs if you have trouble finding it, or you could do the economical thing and switch to a GB or Oregon rim and sprocket system and be able to run rims that cost 1/3 to 1/2 of what the Stihl rims cost.

Russ
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. Looks like the proper chain that is kept sharp is my ticket. The question is, being that I'm not that familar with chain terminology, where can I get a better grasp of this ie,...as far as I know, my saw has the safety chain. What is full chisel and semi, what makes them better, etc?

Also, are there some good reads on the subject or a "Sharpening for Dummies" sort of article floating around on the web?

Thanks again.
 
go to madsens site they have a lot of info..t ype in chain saw on search and u should find it. if not their email and that info is recently put on one of the post..
i think.. oregon site is another source..
 

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