Mc "Bender" Bob's new Copperhead race saw

[gunnarfan]

curious how this whole thing turned out.. and of course if billg still has any of those 820 saws about.

 

[ozflea]

Makes more than a competitive saw i can tell you i call it the Super Pro 820.

http://macbobaust.com/build1.html

Mc Bob.

 

[gunnarfan]

thats impressive. did the root one turn out alright or did i just miss the swap to an sp125 format?

oh by the way.. did you make out alright with that recoil i sent you under ebay user djnp? if i find any clean examples of similar parts saws i'll let you know.

 

[ozflea]

thats impressive. did the root one turn out alright or did i just miss the swap to an sp125 format?

oh by the way.. did you make out alright with that recoil i sent you under ebay user djnp? if i find any clean examples of similar parts saws i'll let you know.

Yes an easy swap if you dont mind modifing the fuel tank to let the carb hang out in the breeze

Yes i would have gotten the recoil but shipping by sea to OZ takes fiorever by sea so i might have missed the dead line for feedback as it often happens
if thats the case thank you even though it's late.

The Root setup made a badly balanced saw so hence the need to chamge.

Mc Bob.

 

[gunnarfan]

i'm going to have to keep an eye out for one of those copperhead motors. i'll just have to unload some more junk and see about ordering one. all i see mostly are the old westbends on ebay. no worries about feedback or any of that stuff it was quite a while ago. just letting you know that someone with cheap parts can be reached here and there. so the root saw is the one pictured that "isn't" the mac? looks great.

 

[gunnarfan]

as far as the mac parts go you use the mac oil tank and oiler long with the wrap handle right? the trigger and top i'm not too sure of.. was really curious if you use the mac 125 bottom support. doesn't look it when it gets to the handle. just curious... thats a nice looking saw.

 

[Chopwood]

Bob, are you still using 1/2 inch chain? I am sure 3/8 would be much faster on a big gear.

 

[ozflea]

To fit the Copperhead engine you need to make a rectangular adaptor to bolt the oil tank to the bottom of the engine i used mild steel and countersunk the four bolts securing the plate to the engine and then drilled and threaded the holes to retain the oil tank now you need to make the adaptor plate about 3/8" thick so you can provide a pulse hole for the auto oiler i drilled down and then drilled in to link the pulse passage.

I used a piece of 1'8" plate to make an adaptor to mount the Mac rear cushion to the rear bolts holding the uper intake manifold.

The lower brace frame was custom made from 1/8" flat strap and the lower rear handle brace welded to it anf curved it accordingly to meet the upper section of the pistol grip.

Since i used the Boysen intake reed assy and Tillerton HR carby i cut the base out of a SP125 fuel tank and made a new round fuel tank to suit.

A bit of messng around but it works and works very well

Footnote the Copperhead and the Vintage engine are the same except for the extra cooling size fins on the Copperhead so i ordered a Vintage version as it fitted up better in both frames and if you use the Copperhead the extra size in the cooling fins will make it harder to fit into the SP125 frame.

Yes and i'm running 3/8" chain.

Mc Bob.

 

[820wards]

make the adaptor plate about 3/8" thick so you can provide a pulse hole for the auto oiler i drilled down and then drilled in to link the pulse passage.

Ozflea,

What type of auto oiler are you planning to use for the saw? I have an old WARDS 820 saw that I would like to use an auto oil system if possible.

jerry-

 

[ozflea]

make the adaptor plate about 3/8" thick so you can provide a pulse hole for the auto oiler i drilled down and then drilled in to link the pulse passage.

Ozflea,

What type of auto oiler are you planning to use for the saw? I have an old WARDS 820 saw that I would like to use an auto oil system if possible.

jerry-

I used the auto oiler off the SP125 and oil tank as the SP125 frames take the Copperhead real neat


Mc Bob.

 

[820wards]

I used the auto oiler off the SP125 and oil tank as the SP125 frames take the Copperhead real neat


Mc Bob.

Bob,
Any chance you could take a picture of the pump mounted so I can see how you did it.

Thanks
jerry-

 

[ozflea]

It's just a rectanglular piece of 3/8" steel the holes to secure the plate to the engine are countersunk then the four holes for the Mc SP125 tank are marked drilled and taped the hole for the pulse line is plumb centre coming from the top and is drilled deep enough so the hole intersects a second hole that aligns with the pulse hole for the oil pump. You may need to drill another hole in the intake manifold on the engine side of the reed block to feed the pulse like i did.

My US820 Westbend Copperhead / Vintage engine has the 10 degree tapered crank so i can use the McCulloch clutch.
If your trying this using a straight shaft crank then forget it as it won't work.

Bob.

 

[820wards]

It's just a rectanglular piece of 3/8" steel the holes to secure the plate to the engine are countersunk then the four holes for the Mc SP125 tank are marked drilled and taped the hole for the pulse line is plumb centre coming from the top and is drilled deep enough so the hole intersects a second hole that aligns with the pulse hole for the oil pump. You may need to drill another hole in the intake manifold on the engine side of the reed block to feed the pulse like i did.

My US820 Westbend Copperhead / Vintage engine has the 10 degree tapered crank so i can use the McCulloch clutch.
If your trying this using a straight shaft crank then forget it as it won't work.

Bob.

Bob,

All three of my 820 motors have the tapered shaft. What model McCulloch oiler should I get?

Thanks
jerry-

 

[ozflea]

Bob,

All three of my 820 motors have the tapered shaft. What model McCulloch oiler should I get?

Thanks
jerry-

Right for a cushioned saw you need the oil tank and lower half of an old fuel tank, handle bar you will need to fabricate a lower brace it's front mount will use the origional SP bolt and belly out in the underneath section to clear the westbends transfer cover retaining bolts the rear handle from the lower section i made from 1/16" flat bar curved in two pieces to meet at the rear of the upper pistol grip.

Mc Bob.

 

[820wards]

Right for a cushioned saw you need the oil tank and lower half of an old fuel tank, handle bar you will need to fabricate a lower brace it's front mount will use the origional SP bolt and belly out in the underneath section to clear the westbends transfer cover retaining bolts the rear handle from the lower section i made from 1/16" flat bar curved in two pieces to meet at the rear of the upper pistol grip.

Mc Bob.

Mc Bob,

I have a 1967 WARDS 820 saw. The oilier is getting old and pretty worn out. What I have been trying to find is newer style replacement so when mine finally quits I'll have a backup ready. I'll see if I can order the pump you described.

One of the motors I have, I purchased from Art Martin about 1-1/2 years ago. I'm using it as a power head for a mill I have been building. Art lives about an hour from me so it's been nice to visit him when I can.

Thanks
jerry-

 

[ozflea]

Mc Bob,

I have a 1967 WARDS 820 saw. The oilier is getting old and pretty worn out. What I have been trying to find is newer style replacement so when mine finally quits I'll have a backup ready. I'll see if I can order the pump you described.

One of the motors I have, I purchased from Art Martin about 1-1/2 years ago. I'm using it as a power head for a mill I have been building. Art lives about an hour from me so it's been nice to visit him when I can.

Thanks
jerry-

Well small world ain't it i meet Art a couple of years ago now when i visited the States and attended Placerville to take part in some saw racing and i still talk with him occasionally by email.

I wouldn't have a clue what a wards 820 is as i haven't really seen one but the reason i slipped in the New Copperhead 820 was to get a feel for what the mystical Mac 102 Kart Engine would have been like in a saw like the SP125 Hence i have numbered mine a SP820 ............ the Mac 102 had it ever got into a large scale production run would have shared a lot with the US 820 like chrome bore and 133cc but in my opinion the Mac engine would not have had some of the week points that still plage the US820 LIKE ROD BOLTS.



Mc Bob.

 

[820wards]

Well small world ain't it i meet Art a couple of years ago now when i visited the States and attended Placerville to take part in some saw racing and i still talk with him occasionally by email.

I wouldn't have a clue what a wards 820 is as i haven't really seen one but the reason i slipped in the New Copperhead 820 was to get a feel for what the mystical Mac 102 Kart Engine would have been like in a saw like the SP125 Hence i have numbered mine a SP820 ............ the Mac 102 had it ever got into a large scale production run would have shared a lot with the US 820 like chrome bore and 133cc but in my opinion the Mac engine would not have had some of the week points that still plage the US820 LIKE ROD BOLTS.



Mc Bob.

Mc Bob,

I just talked to Art Thursday night. He's been selling off a lot of his saws.

The attached picture is my Montgomery Wards (Was a local department store that sold everything from women's underwear to chainsaws.) It was built using the 820 Powerbee motor. I use the saw primarily for cutting large oak trees for fire wood. I am using another 820 motor as a power head for a mill I have been building.

jerry-

 

[ozflea]

Mc Bob,

I just talked to Art Thursday night. He's been selling off a lot of his saws.

The attached picture is my Montgomery Wards (Was a local department store that sold everything from women's underwear to chainsaws.) It was built using the 820 Powerbee motor. I use the saw primarily for cutting large oak trees for fire wood. I am using another 820 motor as a power head for a mill I have been building.

jerry-

Ok i'm with you now as Art had one of these

Here's mine
http://macbobaust.com/build2.html

Mc Bob.

 

[820wards]

Ok i'm with you now as Art had one of these

Here's mine
http://macbobaust.com/build2.html

Mc Bob.

Art mentioned to me the other night that you and a few other loggers met him up in Orangevale a couple of years ago. Did he show you his shop? Pretty cool place.

The 820 motor that will be powering my mill is the one that Art had. He even gave me a carb for the motor. I machined an intake, but that was the easy part. The bracket for the mill is a go-cart frame I have modified to work for my mill. I'm currently working on the exhaust pipe for the motor. I only have a few more things to do and the mill will be ready to run.

My WARDS saw has had some up grades done to it to make it a dependable saw in the field. Kevlar reed valves, electronic ignition and a 1" intake/carb upgrade. It starts great and cuts big trees with ease. As you already know, it's not a light saw, but it sure cuts fast.

jerry-

 

[ozflea]

Art mentioned to me the other night that you and a few other loggers met him up in Orangevale a couple of years ago. Did he show you his shop? Pretty cool place.

The 820 motor that will be powering my mill is the one that Art had. He even gave me a carb for the motor. I machined an intake, but that was the easy part. The bracket for the mill is a go-cart frame I have modified to work for my mill. I'm currently working on the exhaust pipe for the motor. I only have a few more things to do and the mill will be ready to run.

My WARDS saw has had some up grades done to it to make it a dependable saw in the field. Kevlar reed valves, electronic ignition and a 1" intake/carb upgrade. It starts great and cuts big trees with ease. As you already know, it's not a light saw, but it sure cuts fast.

jerry-

Small world really that engine may have been the 820 Art offered me a few years back and had it not been for a stuff up on my behalf using paypal them i wouldn't have ended up with the Copperhead which i ended up buying a few weeks later. Indeed it worked out well as the Copperhead is the more powerful and was the better buy.

I'm copying the porting and other features of the Copperhead on another 820 and i'm just awaiting a few more bits to finish the engine off as i still need a cylinder head, head shroud, crankshaft and the better conrod of the Copperhead and it should be done.

Not sure till the coil mount gets here if i'll be able to replace the standard points ignition coil to my Electronic ignition conversion that i have been using on my Mac's, the unit i use is the same dimensions as the US820's PVL module and should fit up just fine as these electronic ignition modules have no rev limiter.

This engine will also have a few more improvements internally.
Anyway till all the parts are here i cannot put the cart before the horse.

McBob.