McCulloch Chain Saws

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The long air filter, yellow paint, and no "full wrap" bar identifies is as a 35, could be a 35A. There should be a model number stamped just above the fuel cap, below the points cover.

The Super 33 also has the long filter, but has a different paint scheme and the "full wrap" style bar like the 39.

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The "regular" 33 has a short air filter.

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They are somewhat different to work on but in reality are actually pretty simple saws.

Mark
 
back on the super 250. I removed the points cover only to find everything was gone. The guy did leave me a parts saw and it has 248 stamped on crank case. Guessing it is a 250 as well? Anyways I took the points out of it and put them in the super and after a learning curve on the adjustment. Started at .025 had weak spark and then went to .023 now spark is strong. Saw starts and runs as it should. So it looks like the module must have been bad. I made a cut in a log and let it idle for a while and restarted it and it runs as it should. I wonder why the module doesn't work well on the mac saws? Thanks for the help thus far


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I think the location is critical, not too close to the magnets and away from heat.

I don't trust electronics in my old saws, next time aim for 0.020" or just a bit less on the point gap. At 0.023" you might get the occasional "snap back" if you don't pull with authority.

Good to know it is running again and even better that you didn't have to mess with the reeds; it can be done of course but is it a lot more work.

Mark
 
The long air filter, yellow paint, and no "full wrap" bar identifies is as a 35, could be a 35A. There should be a model number stamped just above the fuel cap, below the points cover.

The Super 33 also has the long filter, but has a different paint scheme and the "full wrap" style bar like the 39.

View attachment 449520

The "regular" 33 has a short air filter.

View attachment 449521

They are somewhat different to work on but in reality are actually pretty simple saws.

Mark
Thanks Mark, stamp says 13487 b
 
There you go, Sheldon nailed it.

If you need any tips or pointers on the saw let me know. I have had some experience and find them rather pleasurable to work on.

To replace the starter rope, all you have to do is stick a long 1/4-20 bolt in the starter pulley through the back of the handle and wind it up.

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Mark
 
I responded to a local add for a big old heavy Mcculloch with 26 " bar. The gentleman could not identify the model over the phone so I crossed my fingers and went over to have a look. After chatting with him for a bit and telling him I wasn't interested in it. He asked me politely to just take it.:laugh:
 
I thought I saw on acres site it said .025 so that is where I started. Maybe I mis-read it. I'm glad as well to be able to call the guy and have it go away at this point


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That there's a lightweight, McCullah chainsaw...what like Marcell keeps on his pulp wood truck. Cut through any screen door in 2 seconds flat. Must have one helluva chip opening on the clutch cover. :)

Love me some Jerry Clower!

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That guy cracks me up! I love the sound effects for the saw!
 
Pull the muffler and look at the piston for aluminum transfer. If it's clean and it runs, your all set. Maybe change the fuel filter and fuel line if the line feels like a wet noodle, otherwise call it good and have fun.

By the way, there was a decent clean one like that on CL in Mollala Oregon, is that the one?
 
Some McCandy for you folks.

Like new 3-10E and PM 850 Super. I decided to fuel them up and see if they would run yesterday since they've both been taken to the woods in the past. I have mixed feelings about the PM850S, it actually started on the very first pull. A saw like that could ruin the McCulloch reputation. The 3-10E was more McCulloch like but did start and run without resorting to a prime down the throat. I have the battery pack out for now. That's a McCulloch branded (Sears) air compressor on the bench in background.

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I also made a small cart with castors for the McCulloch Shop Vac, I will keep this one in the attic so I don't have to drag one up and down the ladder when I need to clean up the "upper level".

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Finally getting around to my early 10-10A. Got points, flat muffler, spark, LOW compression. No scoring on the p/c looking through the exhaust. Plenty of carbon though. Guess I'm gonna replace seals and rings
Gotta say I was surprised to see its a clamshell.
So, I'm assuming the seals go on when the case is split. What surprises need I look for when doing the seals and rings?
 

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