McCulloch Chain Saws

[heimannm]

D-30 or D-36, hard to know the difference. There should be a model and serial number stamped on the bottom of the crankcase. If the black clutch cover was original it would indicate a D-36.

The center pull units are not rare, and most that your find will not have been used that much. Both the D-30 and D-36 would have originally been equipment with the Lubri-Mac system that scavenged "heavy crankcase residue" and directed it towards the bar for bar/chain lubrication. For the system to work effectively you were supposed to use a 10:1 mix ratio. There was a retrofit for those saw that added a divider on the front of the fuel tank and an oil tank added with a manual oiler like the one you found. The clutch cover from any large frame direct drive saw will work on that one. Yours appears to have the screw with the oversize head that catches a thumbnail slot in the bar for adjusting chain tension so there is no chain tension screw in the clutch cover. If you find a clutch cover with the adjusting screw in it, just remove the original tension adjust screw. You will find the chain tension adjust in the clutch cover is much more user friendly than the oversize screw on the saw body.

The only rare saw in the group was the D-45 which would be indistinguishable from a 1-51 with the long black AF cover and full wrap handle bar. I have a D-45 clone made from a 1-42 saw with the other bits added to it. I think the real D-45 models came with a black starter as well.



This D-30 block has the Lubri-Mac "automatic oiler" under the slotted cover. That one was Serial #26.



I believe that particular saw went to live with my friend Jim in Indiana.



Mark

 

[brandonstc6]

That is very helpful, thanks a lot. This is a very interesting saw and the only one I've seen like it. The very first saw I fixed was a Mac and I really like the old MACs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[heimannm]

You may want to consider a different starter handle, I think the hemostats may prove a bit awkward for starting.



No external/manual oiler



Mark

 

[brandonstc6]

That is a very nice saw. I checked mine and it is a D36. I will get a better recoil starter handle, lol. The hemostats are just to keep from loosing the rope. The saw seems to have good compression and it will need a carburetor kit. I may or may not paint it, i don't know.

 

[46 Poulan]

Question for you Mark[ The Mcculloch Man]--I have a 250 Mcculloch -Tried to crank. Fuel came out of bar oil hole. Took apart-Made new gaskets--What do you use to seal off 4 bolts and 3 screws inside fuel tank?? Mine has auto oiler. Thanks David--Southwest Ga.--Looking foward to 80cc's of power--Also have another mac 10-10 and project 250

 

[svk]

Hi guys.

Above the bar oil hole on my 2-10 is another hole that bar oil pours out of when cutting horizontally. Assuming this is the breather hole and there should be some sort of a duckbill in there?

 

[fossil]

If it's the hole towards the front of the bar pad, mine has a cotter pin in it. The head is on the outside, the legs are in the oil tank

 

[svk]

If it's the hole towards the front of the bar pad, mine has a cotter pin in it. The head is on the outside, the legs are in the oil tank

Does it weep when cutting horizontally?

 

[fossil]

Never even tried to run it. I bought it as a parts saw for the muffler for a 7-10A and RH starter for my 5-10A but the 2-10A is in such nice shape I hate to use it for parts.

The pin is pretty tight in the hole so I doubt it would leak enough you would notice it. The Poulan 3400 - 4000 uses the same type and location (behind the bar pad on those) for the oil tank vent and it the pin is tight leakage is not noticeable at all.

Now I'll have to hunt for another RH starter for the 5-10A and repair the muffler on the 7-10A.

 

[svk]

Never even tried to run it. I bought it as a parts saw for the muffler for a 7-10A and RH starter for my 5-10A but the 2-10A is in such nice shape I hate to use it for parts.

The pin is pretty tight in the hole so I doubt it would leak enough you would notice it. The Poulan 3400 - 4000 uses the same type and location (behind the bar pad on those) for the oil tank vent and it the pin is tight leakage is not noticeable at all.

Now I'll have to hunt for another RH starter for the 5-10A and repair the muffler on the 7-10A.

Cool, thank you.

@mortalitool

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I've also read that a roll pin works as a substitute breather. Greatly reduces (not totally eliminates) the oil dripping and also provides tank breathing without having to get inside to bend cotter pin legs.

 

[fossil]

Hi Poge

 

[Hoggwood]

Just thinking out loud on the cotter pins.

I haven't had to replace any in the tanks, but could the legs be bent and inserted like a toggle bolt. Pull it back out a tad once it is in there and spread the legs further? Might be too tight going in with the pin legs doubled back though.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Hi Tim.

 

[fossil]

With the 10 series it's easy to pull the tank cover put a new pin in.

 

[svk]

The cover is already off on this one so it will be an easy fix.

This one is sporting new crank seals and I've got a new bar to throw on as well. (Fingers crossed) it's finally ready to run!

 

[heimannm]

SvK - If the hole you are talking about is on the same side as the oil discharge, I think there is supposed to be a plug/ball in it sealing it closed.

46 - I use Threebond on any threads that need to be sealed.

Mark

 

[svk]

SvK - If the hole you are talking about is on the same side as the oil discharge, I think there is supposed to be a plug/ball in it sealing it closed.

46 - I use Threebond on any threads that need to be sealed.

Mark

Correct as usual Doctor


Found this pic in the trading post.

 

[astnmacgto]

Correct as usual Doctor


Found this pic in the trading post.

View attachment 539409

So that's what that is, I have one of those kits that I bought with some nos parts, I better keep it incase I run into that problem

 

[fossil]

I thought you were talking abut this hole with the cotter pin in it.