McCulloch Chain Saws

[Modifiedmark]

Mark, thanks for showing that plate in use. I never paid that much attention to it as I had no clue what chain that was for. I knew chances of me having a chain for it was low.

That chain looks a lot like the older Carlton chain

 

[sawfun]

Is this saw bigger than 100cc. Is it a good deal at $200 shipped?
Thanks


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If that's the Ebay 895, IT'S NOT! "8" series are gear drive. That saw is likely a 99cc or 103cc direct drive. If you get it and is 790, I'd trade you for the correct top cover as I could use an 895 top cover with that emblem.

 

[brandonstc6]

If that's the Ebay 895, IT'S NOT! "8" series are gear drive. That saw is likely a 99cc or 103cc direct drive. If you get it and is 790, I'd trade you for the correct top cover as I could use an 895 top cover with that emblem.

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind, I am thinking about offering $150


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[brandonstc6]

Well, I bought it for $160 shipped. The seller said it is model 873b. What model saw does number does this mean the saw is


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[brandonstc6]

The seller is including a super pro 81 air filter cover.


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[sawfun]

There is no 873b, though that number may be stamped on the block. The saw is likely a 740, 790, or if it has a DSP valve, its a 795. It would be good to see the underside of the engine block for other numbers. The sp81 cover won't fit as its for a smaller 10 series but is still good trading stock. Either way, it's a good worthy 6 cube project. when you get it, check for numbers and pull the muffler and look at the piston/bore condition. If it's good, you may only need a fuel line and filter, carb rebuild, and seals would be a good idea. You may have to clean points and or replace a on denser if it has no spark. Those things are normal on a vintage saw.

 

[brandonstc6]

There is no 873b, though that number may be stamped on the block. The saw is likely a 740, 790, or if it has a DSP valve, its a 795. It would be good to see the underside of the engine block for other numbers. The sp81 cover won't fit as its for a smaller 10 series but is still good trading stock. Either way, it's a good worthy 6 cube project. when you get it, check for numbers and pull the muffler and look at the piston/bore condition. If it's good, you may only need a fuel line and filter, carb rebuild, and seals would be a good idea. You may have to clean points and or replace a on denser if it has no spark. Those things are normal on a vintage saw.

Thanks, I will check it out when I get it. A member here wants to trade the 895 cover off it for a 740 cover. I do expect to replace the points and condenser. I have a super 250 with no spark that I plan to replace the points and condenser on. I will probably sell or trade the super pro 81 cover. I think I got a good deal.


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[heimannm]

Brandon - from the views I see above, it does not appear to have the automatic oil pump on the top of the oil tank (front of the saw); that would make it a 1-7X.

1-70 thru 1-72 are all 87cc; 1-70 is more torque, 1-71 is a high revving saw, 1-72 seems to be a good blend
1-75 is 95 cc; I don't have a 1-75 yet but my 1-85 (gear drive) is a screamer and one of the best sounding saws I own
1-76 is 99 cc; pulls its guts out. I had a spare 1-76 so I added the gear case to make it a 1-86...I like the 1-85 better.

I have the 1-71, 1-72, and 1-76 that are runners, they pull a chain well but the manual oiler get tedious after a while. The 1-72 with the town & country muffler



The 1-76 in locust



Mark - there were several manufacturers of the GLX type chain, I have some McCulloch and some Carlton on hand.

astn - the extra bumpers are both anti-kickback and low vibration, I think some Engineer decided since they had to have the guards, they might as well make them look aggressive

Mark

 

[astnmacgto]

Brandon - from the views I see above, it does not appear to have the automatic oil pump on the top of the oil tank (front of the saw); that would make it a 1-7X.

1-70 thru 1-72 are all 87cc; 1-70 is more torque, 1-71 is a high revving saw, 1-72 seems to be a good blend
1-75 is 95 cc; I don't have a 1-75 yet but my 1-85 (gear drive) is a screamer and one of the best sounding saws I own
1-76 is 99 cc; pulls its guts out. I had a spare 1-76 so I added the gear case to make it a 1-86...I like the 1-85 better.

I have the 1-71, 1-72, and 1-76 that are runners, they pull a chain well but the manual oiler get tedious after a while. The 1-72 with the town & country muffler

View attachment 546685

The 1-76 in locust

View attachment 546686

Mark - there were several manufacturers of the GLX type chain, I have some McCulloch and some Carlton on hand.

astn - the extra bumpers are both anti-kickback and low vibration, I think some Engineer decided since they had to have the guards, they might as well make them look aggressive

Mark

I'm assuming you are back stateside again? I always enjoy the pictures you put up of you exercising your fleet of yellow.

 

[brandonstc6]

Brandon - from the views I see above, it does not appear to have the automatic oil pump on the top of the oil tank (front of the saw); that would make it a 1-7X.

1-70 thru 1-72 are all 87cc; 1-70 is more torque, 1-71 is a high revving saw, 1-72 seems to be a good blend
1-75 is 95 cc; I don't have a 1-75 yet but my 1-85 (gear drive) is a screamer and one of the best sounding saws I own
1-76 is 99 cc; pulls its guts out. I had a spare 1-76 so I added the gear case to make it a 1-86...I like the 1-85 better.

I have the 1-71, 1-72, and 1-76 that are runners, they pull a chain well but the manual oiler get tedious after a while. The 1-72 with the town & country muffler

View attachment 546685

The 1-76 in locust

View attachment 546686

Mark - there were several manufacturers of the GLX type chain, I have some McCulloch and some Carlton on hand.

astn - the extra bumpers are both anti-kickback and low vibration, I think some Engineer decided since they had to have the guards, they might as well make them look aggressive

Mark

Thanks for the information. I was really hoping for a 99 cc saw but anything above 87cc would be good too. I knew you would know


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[Rio95]

Just got 2 Super 250 saws, first one fired straight up on a prime. Checked the piston and cylinder, they are clean, but relatively worn, nothing unexpected. Compression feels good, haven't got around to testing it yet. Haven't looked over the second saw yet either.

Now, my question is, what is the general troubleshooting method method the flat back carb? Thinking I will just pull it down and clean it, check the gaskets and diaphragms, Replace if required and put it back together. It isn't pulling fuel by itself, only runs on prime. Are there any tips or tricks?

 

[heimannm]

There is a fairly complete thread on the McCulloch carburetor, see the link in my signature.

Mark

 

[rwoods]

Cool snow blower attachment - now just put one of those BPs on the Magna Trac. Ron

 

[heimannm]

I was doing something else and that photo somehow crept into my post...after the first outing I determined I needed the impeller to spin a bit faster so I changed the v-belt drive.

Let's keep the McCulloch thread packed with McCulloch saws, I used one of my SP125's to buck up this cottonwood trunk. While it's not great firewood, it does keep the house warm during these mild winter days we are enjoying in Iowa.



I also used the 7-10 on some of the smaller stuff on this particular project. Some of that elm is keeping the cottonwood company in the wood stove.



Mark

Mark

 

[brandonstc6]

I put a NOS carburetor on my super pro 60 because the old one had a problem with the needle/seat. My saw runs great now.

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[brandonstc6]

I put a NOS carburetor on my pro Mac 700. It still will not run. I can get it to fire occasionally with compression release out but when I mash it in, it won't fire at all. Could I have a weak coil?
Thanks


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[brandonstc6]

I mean it won't fire on gas. The plug is firing.


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[rwoods]

Let's round out the year with some MAC action. OK, how about just some MAC noise. Ron

 

[fossil]

I mean it won't fire on gas. The plug is firing.


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Did you try changing the spark plug on the 700? The 700's came with an electronic module or a coil with breaker points under the flywheel. Which do you have?

Just in case you have a shorted on off switch or wire, pull the wire off at the coil. If it runs, the problem is there.

Generally speaking, The saw should fire and run for a couple of seconds after priming it by shooting some mix through the carb throat or into the spark plug hole.

If it won't do that then the issue(s) could be spark (from the points through to the spark plug components), low compression or a flywheel that has sheared the key, changing the ignition timing.

 

[brandonstc6]

I have electronic ignition the was completely rebuilt and gear oil was used for assembly lube. When gas is squirted into the carburetor it will run if the compression release is out but not when it is in. The compression is 175 psi. The flywheel key isn't sheared and the spark plug is new


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