Thats just it, im not sure how to set the metering lever on these so I just left it alone. It runs worse than before I touched it lol
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Some info in the attached on the flatback maintenance and settings.
Thats just it, im not sure how to set the metering lever on these so I just left it alone. It runs worse than before I touched it lol
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I made some plates to block off the intake and exhaust when testing saws, rubber blanking gaskets are pretty handy here.
Gorilla tape will also work for vacuum testing but you need something more for the pressure test.
Mark
Good point Brian - if the automatic oil pump is not properly installed and well sealed the port through the oil tank will leak.
Brandon - listen/bubble check the area around the base of the automatic oil pump.
Mark
$65 for a 550 seems to be a good deal but you don't know what has been done to it. That red knob on the side of the AF cover is definitely not stock.
View attachment 566530
Mark
The 550's did come with the primer flat back. Hard to say what that knob is for.
2broke - for you pig rich saw, the correct position of the metering needle is level with the body of the carburetor.
View attachment 566545
Older flat back carburetors had a sintered metal plug they called a capillary seal under the large welch plug, but most later ones had a plastic ball check valve. If the check valve is somehow damaged it would allow too much fuel to pass at low speeds. Fi the ball was missing altogether it might explain too rich at higher speeds as well as the ball does obstruct the flow somewhat.
If you want to pop that 1" welch plug out and check, I can send you a replacement welch plug.
How confident are you that the H and L jets are in fact the originals and of the correct length?
Mark
I have some rubber from an old car tire inner tube. I will try that next time I re-test.
Also I have the oil tank top off and I sprayed soapy water around the oil pump.
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I've found the exhaust port hard to seal off unless you cut the rubber so it fits into the same machined slot as the gasket.
A failing coil can cut out when it gets hot? Just a stab in the dark.So worked on the 440 for a couple of hours again tonight...... the metering lever was indeed set too high. Set it proper and put the car back together. I also swapped the mixture screws from my other flatback because they seemed to hold and adjustment better. I got it running and took it out to tune it in wood.
Got the high side tuned in good for a nice smooth cut and a little fourstroke unloaded. Then was messing with the idle speed and the lower mixture to try to get it to idle a little better and it just shut off like I hit kill switch. Now I seem to have lost spark. I took it back apart and cleaned and regapped the points twice now and still no joy. It will dimly light my spark tester but won't jump the gap on the plug with the plug held against the head.
So after a second time taking it apart and cleaning the points I got frustrated and came inside.
Does anyone think my cool just gave out? This is my third "big" Mac and haven't had an ignition problem that couldn't be fixed by dressing the points. Oh btw I also unhooked the kill switch and visually inspected the wire from the points to the coil.
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