McCulloch Chain Saws

[super44]

The old girl has really good compression but might not have spark. The next dark night with no rain I will check it. I drained the gas and it seemed to have a lot of grit in it. Is it better to leave the saw alone or get the parts and make it into a chainsaw?

 

[Mac&Homelite]

The old girl has really good compression but might not have spark. The next dark night with no rain I will check it. I drained the gas and it seemed to have a lot of grit in it. Is it better to leave the saw alone or get the parts and make it into a chainsaw?

I'd personally keep it as a cutoff saw, looks cooler that way and serves a different purpose. If you really want a saw, I'm sure someone has one laying around that you could get for pennies.

 

[heimannm]

I have a 795 in the attic that is in good condition except for the fuel tank full of stinking, thick old gas/tar. On the left in the photo below, I could let it go for a reasonable sum. Converting one to a chainsaw is more involved than you may think, no oil tank, etc. on the cut off saws.



Mark

 

[super44]

It is the only one in my collection of that style and will likely stay as it is. I do hope to hear it run as it may be useful. What is considered a reasonable sum for good condition 795?

 

[heimannm]

Super 44 - PM sent

Mark

 

[Brian Van]

I'm looking at a Buddy's pm 610. It is very hard to start. Once it starts it runs and idles, but bogs down in a piece of wood. Is their a post in this thread dealing with this?

 

[heimannm]

I have the full wrap handles for the LH start 10 Series rigid saws now. Fits fine with the stock clutch cover on any of the 1-10 through 7-10 saws including all RH start 10-10's. I suspect there are quite a few other 10-10 models with the older clutch cover as well so those are good to go as well.

Here it is on the 7-10 with a modified (short) clutch cover off a late model saw with a brake.





Here are 4 different clutch covers off LH start 10 Series saws. Upper right is the short cover for a chain brake with my first attempt at the layout for the modification. Upper left is one style early cover from LH start saws, lower left is another early style, lower right is a later cover but without brake. It would need a similar modification to fit the full wrap.

Mark

 

[Mac&Homelite]

Very nice looking full wraps!!! Wish I had a 10 series to put it on though... Soon enough I suppose.

 

[emf123]

Looks good Mark, hope to be able to check it out tomorrow! When do you think you'll be rolling in?

 

[Brian Van]

The 7-10 is what became the 700 or bigger?

 

[heimannm]

7-10 was just before the PM700, same basic engine and displacement but I prefer the 7-10 with a little less weight and bulk due to the shorter clutch cover. I think the 7-10 had better porting too, I ran mine against a very fresh PM700 and beat it pretty handily every time.

Mark

 

[rocketnorton]

is a d44 worth putting any time/$$$ in? rescued one from scrap, missin starter, clutch. rolls over, 90 psi.
if not, is available for parts. pics later, if any interest.

 

[Brian Van]

7-10 was just before the PM700, same basic engine and displacement but I prefer the 7-10 with a little less weight and bulk due to the shorter clutch cover. I think the 7-10 had better porting too, I ran mine against a very fresh PM700 and beat it pretty handily every time.

Mark

that's a nice looking saw. Thanks for shpwingboit

Well they

 

[Brian Van]

Thanks for sharing it with us.

 

[CM76]

Ok guys, I'm still having some problems with my Tilly hl carb for my 250. Got a rebuild kit installed, with the exception of the brass part that the needle rides in (no socket). Saw still doesn't have high rpms and spits out way to much fuel into the air box. I have a lake inside it after a couple of minutes running. What is there left to do? Could it still have something to do with an air leak as I never did a pressure/vac test on it?

What condition are your reeds in? I have had a similar condition happen on a large McCulloch and it ended up being a cracked intake reed. The saw would start and idle absolutely fine, but would spit fuel back through the carb when trying to accelerate. Worthwhile checking.

Chris

 

[Brian Van]

Just got a Mac 3200 gave to me. Looks brand new. But has no spark. Any ideas? If its a coil, can I get one for it?

 

[heimannm]

Pete - The D-44 was a hot rod in its day, but yours is missing some of the hard to find pieces and compression is low. Maybe next week you will find a busted saw in the scrap head with the flywheel side missing and the clutch and cover/starter intact...

Brian - The plastic Mac saws were somewhat notorious for coil failures. Unless you can find a donor saw for cheap, you can expect to pay $40 to $50 or more for a replacement.

Mark

 

[rocketnorton]

is a d44 worth putting any time/$$$ in? rescued one from scrap, missin starter, clutch. rolls over, 90 psi.
if not, is available for parts. pics later, if any interest.

it has been spoken for. member local to me. he's done me few freebies.

 

[Mac&Homelite]

What condition are your reeds in? I have had a similar condition happen on a large McCulloch and it ended up being a cracked intake reed. The saw would start and idle absolutely fine, but would spit fuel back through the carb when trying to accelerate. Worthwhile checking.

Chris

When I had it apart, the reed valves appeared to be in mint condition. Both worked as expected, although I didn't completely strip that part down to see the other side of the valves. Will have to look into later.

 

[Mac&Homelite]

Just got a Mac 3200 gave to me. Looks brand new. But has no spark. Any ideas? If its a coil, can I get one for it?

Dad had one I fixed up. Could barely get $40 from it. Probably worth parting out though, especially if it looks cosmetically nice and the oil filler cap hasn't been knocked off yet.