McCulloch Chain Saws

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The blue would be the Target version, or yellow for the Leer or Entwistle I suppose although I believe my Entwistle is a PM700 power head.

I have seen elsewhere that the Leer actually used a 10-10 power head but Joey was pretty sure his (now mine) had a 7-10 in it when he got it.

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Mark
 
Well I managed to scan the 30 page Danarm 55mk2 ( all models ) and the upgrade mag supplement manual, but it came out as a 20 meg PDF file, and the site will not let me upload it!

Roland
The site limits attachments to less than about 9 meg. I have used this site to compress a document with some success.
https://smallpdf.com/compress-pdf
Also tried splitting the document into 3 or 4 parts. Then went to mediafire and large documents can be posted as a link.
 
Ugh. Never had this much bad luck. Have my favorite 10-10 tore down for rebuild. So was using my 1-43 and stihl 08s. Cut all.my fire wood last year with those two usually dead bang reliable. Last weekend Iin the woods 1-43 stopped picking up fuel and 08s stopped fireing had to finish load with a homie super ez lol. So got both tore apart on bench and will be cutting wood with myn610 650 frankensaw this weekend.
But it does bring up a need I have been pondering. I need a more midsize range of saws these days cause I am older and im not into as much bigtimber these days. Cutting tops behind loggers mostly. I have 7-10 cp70 or xl 12 or pioneer farmsaw that all run but need work that would be good midsize saws. Which would you guys suggest
Give that pioneer farmsaw some luvin as well
 
uIMG_20170328_081129.jpg I found a Mac/partner in a barn near Spokane.. I showed interest and the nice ol gentleman put it in my truck and told me to have a nice day.. Made my day about 3 years ago.. I've since found a carcass and have the both of them stashed.. Too big and too nice to run on a regular basis.. Besides, I have others that are easier to fix..
 
Advice, please. Just discovered that outside screw hole at the exhaust port is completely stripped on my 800 that I run the old style duct muffler. Should I tap it to the next larger size or use an insert? If insert, which type?

Off now to cut wood with a different saw. :(

Thanks, Ron
 
Advice, please. Just discovered that outside screw hole at the exhaust port is completely stripped on my 800 that I run the old style duct muffler. Should I tap it to the next larger size or use an insert? If insert, which type?

Off now to cut wood with a different saw. :(

Thanks, Ron
If money is no object, I really like time-sert inserts. It would be quite expensive if you are only using it once but you’ll never have trouble with it again.
http://www.timesert.com/
 
Received a couple packages
Thanks Mark you are amazing

Also a piston, rings and bearings for my SP80. Piston is aftermarket and looks amazing for the price! Thank you to Chainsawr for a great product
 
Time-sert it is, thanks to Brian for lending me his kit.

I was a little afraid that it wouldn't work because the hole was wallowed out so much the drill bit could be partially inserted. Decided to do both holes. The other had full depth threads but you could wiggle the screw until it bottomed. I noticed in my picture that some of my lube coating looks to be gone from the piston. I didn't notice it when working on the saw - so it may just be the light but it doesn't look like it. Despite taping the exhaust I still managed to get some tiny shavings down lower on the piston. I removed all I could see using electrical tape. Did a poor job with the safety wiring, but the holes didn't line up well enough to get allow the wire to pull through. If you are wondering about the wire running through my recently acquired MAC muffler bolt - the muffler duct was a little concave from past attempts trying to keep it tight from the top. Some may recall that I later made a spacer to hold it from the bottom. It worked for a few years but recently disintegrated in the heat. I was fortunate to find some muffler bolts recently, but have been unable to find any of the tie straps, thus the safety wire.

While I was at it, I opened the exhaust of a little more - ruined several small drill bits in the process. I don't remember the SS plate being so hard when I made it several years ago. Also noticed that my homemade bottom shroud is full of stress cracks. I guess I'll be making another at some point. Anyway it is up and running and loud.

Ran my pure stock non DSP 800 for a little while today but did most of my cutting with a much lighter 59cc off-brand saw. Sure missed the DSP while trying to start the 800 at 9*.

Need more good advice - what do I need to do to take the binding/slow return out of the recoil? Both my fav and the original 800 require a second pull to retract fully.

Ron

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Other than that off-brand bar, it looks pretty sitting on my $140 scratch and dent workbench I gave myself for Christmas. Maybe next year I'll give myself a MAC stencil and some black and yellow paint for that bar.
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I usually take them apart, clean them really good. Light sanding or wire brush on the axle and use some light grease on the contact points and axle. That usually takes care of it and works fine.
Your workbench looks good. Very nice.
I bet with those inserts you won't have any more trouble with exhaust screws. The threads being loose will cause the bolts to work loose easily. Now that the threads are good and tight it will hold.

Brian
 
Got busy on the SP80 today, was all stripped apart. Made an oil pump gasket using one of those tinsmiths hole punchs. Man they are great for that job provided each hole is marked with cross hatchs. Coated the gasket with Permatex gasket maker for insurance. Cracked out a cute little 1/4" MAC torque wrench. Awesome for these little engines. Had a terrible time getting the ignition to behave. Pulled points and dressed them good, cleaned with contact cleaner and a clean manilla strip. Back together and checked timing with a drill and timing light. Hits when it should when the mark on flywheel lines up with coil mounting screw.
Not sure what to think of that tapered clutch mount? Will torque that once I find the number.
New screen on rewind and proper mcculloch pull handle and all together now.
About 10 pulls to get fuel and she is running. Starts awesome and idles sweet.
Gotta sharpen that old chain for now.......
Having fun!
 
Some more eye candy for McCulloch lovers. Remember the big H&S spike for the direct drive saws?

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They evidently made a smaller one as well. I also got one for the large frame gear drive saws in a haul from fwgsaw last year. The gear drive spike has lived a hard life and had been cracked & re-welded before it came to me.

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Mark
 
Managed to get the fuel cap on the SP80 apart. The duckbill if that is what it was, went to mush. Everything held in by an aluminum plug. Will pickup a homelite duckbill to make a repair.
 

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