Drptrch
Addicted to ArboristSite
Any ideas on model ? TIA
Erik
Erik
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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Going by what remains of that magnesium muffler cover plus the airbox etc. its either a SP105,SP125 or SP125C.
Drptrch
Addicted to ArboristSite
Guy can’t find any numbers on it and doesn’t know what it is.
Any tips to Id’ing I can pass on to him
Erik
Remove muffler and spark plug. Small magnet to bore. If it sticks then it is not a C. Measure bore and stroke to determine 105 or 125. Acres site will have the numbers.
Ron
Drptrch
Addicted to ArboristSite
Beetlejuice
Addicted to ArboristSite
Quite a bar on that.. Looks cool..
Beetlejuice
Addicted to ArboristSite
This is a 125 ..might help
Is that a taped up operator presence lever on the grip? If so, the tank is likely from a SP125C. Is the decomp activated by a valve with a button in the head? Then likely isn’t a CP motor. Others here know way more than me. Ron
Finally getting ready to put my SP125C together.
Piston ceramic coated on top and powder coated on the sides. Thanks Ron.
SDC carb with both High and Low adjustment.
Cylinder Nicomed by US Chrome
New Reeds
New gaskets, seals, fuel line, pulse line and all new bearings.
Cannot wait to get it up and running again.
Brian
Piston ceramic coated on top and powder coated on the sides. Thanks Ron.
SDC carb with both High and Low adjustment.
Cylinder Nicomed by US Chrome
New Reeds
New gaskets, seals, fuel line, pulse line and all new bearings.
Cannot wait to get it up and running again.
Brian
Attachments
Good to see you’re working on it. Next we’ll figure out what to do with the 101b. Weld it or resleeve. Ron
Beetlejuice
Addicted to ArboristSite
,,
That's a lot of saw when it's tired.. I can't imagine what it's like being fresh..
BigBlue
ArboristSite Operative
Off-topic question: Anyone here know of a good forum like this but for Briggs & Stratton small engines? I have a carb leak on a B&S 5hp that I need help with.
Thanks,
Rob
Thanks,
Rob
Beetlejuice
Addicted to ArboristSite
What I do is shut off the gas, take off the bowl, pop easily the float up and down, turn the gas on and make sure the needle valve is working. And go from there
BigBlue
ArboristSite Operative
It's more specific question than that. I rebuilt the carb fully (which is extremely simple compared to most) but it leaks at the gasket between the fuel tank and bottom of the carb when reassembled. This is with a new gasket. I have questions for some B&S experts about the gasket. BTW, there is no bowl on this type of B&S engine.
Thanks,
Rob
Beetlejuice
Addicted to ArboristSite
Then I am out of ideas. Heard there are some great electric motors that (as the electric implys), run on a plug.
Is it the type that has the tank mounted onto the carb? If it is then the only place it can leak is out of the tank or the gasket between the tank and carb. These gaskets are readily available. Make sure that both surfaces are clean and free of any old gasket. If it is leaking from the tank you can line the tank with red kote and stop that. These tanks a prone to rust threw.
Brian
Brian
BigBlue
ArboristSite Operative
Yes, it is. I was trying not to corrupt this Mac thread with B&S talk, but since you're offering advice I'll throw out more...
I'm not 100% sure whether the leak is coming from the tank-to-carb area or from the cover of the diaphragm. Both the gasket and diaphragm are new. I've tightened all screws as tightly as I dare. When running, gas comes out from the area near the diaphragm cover but looks like it is all along the tank gasket. Anyway, the tank gasket is the primary question because the old one that came off looks extra thick and in two layers. The new one is normal thin gasket material. So I wanted some B&S experts to weigh in on whether I need a different gasket, a second one, or ???
I did thoroughly remove all old gasket and cleaned the surfaces. Used a scraper where needed and then carb cleaner and a scotch-brite pad. Surfaces are definitely clean and smooth. The tank-to-carb gasket is as shown in the picture below but only 3 of the little holes have screws holding things down, so there isn't really 'even' pressure on it. But there also really isn't a reason for gas to come out there. The tank is 1/2 full and I'm just running the engine in the garage, not actually using the tiller so it isn't like gas is sloshing around.
Rob
Beetlejuice
Addicted to ArboristSite
Rob, I'm with you now.. The pick-up tube is a pressure fit.. Might check thatYes, it is. I was trying not to corrupt this Mac thread with B&S talk, but since you're offering advice I'll throw out more...
I'm not 100% sure whether the leak is coming from the tank-to-carb area or from the cover of the diaphragm. Both the gasket and diaphragm are new. I've tightened all screws as tightly as I dare. When running, gas comes out from the area near the diaphragm cover but looks like it is all along the tank gasket. Anyway, the tank gasket is the primary question because the old one that came off looks extra thick and in two layers. The new one is normal thin gasket material. So I wanted some B&S experts to weigh in on whether I need a different gasket, a second one, or ???
I did thoroughly remove all old gasket and cleaned the surfaces. Used a scraper where needed and then carb cleaner and a scotch-brite pad. Surfaces are definitely clean and smooth. The tank-to-carb gasket is as shown in the picture below but only 3 of the little holes have screws holding things down, so there isn't really 'even' pressure on it. But there also really isn't a reason for gas to come out there. The tank is 1/2 full and I'm just running the engine in the garage, not actually using the tiller so it isn't like gas is sloshing around.
Rob
BigBlue
ArboristSite Operative
You asked if "the tank is mounted on the carb". I read too fast. The carb is on top of the tank on this tiller.
What do you mean by "the pick-up tube is a pressure fit? I did replace the end (the part with the screen) on the long metal pick-up tube but there is also a shorter plastic tube going into a little 'catch-pan' in the tank too. Unsure what that one actually does. But I didn't have either of them removed from the carb.
Rob
I'm sure some of you know, but I recently bought an unknown saw. The saw is very obviously a super pro 80 variant. But unfortunately, someone removed the i.d. tag at some point, obviously a long time ago. What I'm trying to narrow down, is is it an 80 or an 81? It came with a chain brake clutch cover, has the fully adjustable walbro carb, red decomp, and the newer logo on the recoil cover and the clutch cover. I'm leaning toward it being an 81, probably an electronic ignition. Anyone have any insight on identifying it?
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