McCulloch Chain Saws

[heimannm]

No photos so you'll have to take my word for it but I ran about three tanks of fuel through my PM850 today cutting up some large chunks of locust. All of the good stuff had already been taken so these were mostly crotches that wouldn't work so well in my splitter. I did split what I could, then slabbed and blocked up the rest into firewood size pieces. Filled the Ranger twice.

Running the PM850 is a real joy. I have a like new Dolmar 7900 with a 25" bar and for limbing and bucking it is a great saw but you really have to keep it in the high speed power band. I have a 28" bar on the 850 and it is almost unstoppable even in good hardwood like the locust, the torque is just amazing.

Mark

 

[Brian Thacker]

Kevin. For sure the clutch side seal works. I put one in my CP125

I managed to buy a 57898 from Bob J. It's also a metric seal 17X35X7

57897 which is the outer seal which apparently protects the points from any oil seepage through the inner seal..... I was unable to find one from a seal supplier but I found this part on a power washer made by Nilfisk I think it may work. but did not pursue it.
The IPL can be accessed through the link below


Clutch side crank seal -PTO seal: 104432 or 104486. Use SKF 6640. Confirmed correct The seal is a standard 17X35X7 metric seal

FW side. F/W inner seal: 57898. Crosses to Metric seal 17X30X5

-F/W outer seal: 57897. Aftermarket? NOT SURE OF SEAL SIZE BUT NILFISK ALTO page 3, PART 3, PN 301003078 Oil seal Öldichtung 17 x 30 x3 https://www.htcab.com/sites/default/files/htc_sprangskisser/Poseidon 4.pdf

No info on the gear case seals

Tim, Be careful using the 17X30X5 seal. It is not quite as small as the OEM seal on the shaft part of the seal. I don't have the numbers in front of me at this moment but it is a few thousands larger than the OEM seal. If you slide it over your PTO shaft you will find that the outer lip of the seal does not touch the shaft and it should fit snug to the shaft. I looked for a long while for a seal with the proper dimensions as the OEM. 17mm is close but not close enough for me. I felt it would not seal and without the outer lip touching the shaft completely that on the PTO side it might let debris in to the inner lip of the seal and cause a leak. SKS makes a seal the right dimension but I could never find one for sale but also this seal was plastic case and was not rated for the heat that a PTO seal could endure. I wound up using a 17X30X5 seal but I also used a shaft repair sleeve. It fits over a worn shaft and and makes it a few thousands bigger.

This will make the shaft a few thousands bigger and the seal will fit better.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Transfer-C...613?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0

The part number is a National 99068, The part to the left is the part that slides over the shaft and the part on the right is used to tap the left piece on and is thrown away after used.

Brian

 

[fossil]

Tim, Be careful using the 17X30X5 seal. It is not quite as small as the OEM seal on the shaft part of the seal. I don't have the numbers in front of me at this moment but it is a few thousands larger than the OEM seal. If you slide it over your PTO shaft you will find that the outer lip of the seal does not touch the shaft and it should fit snug to the shaft. I looked for a long while for a seal with the proper dimensions as the OEM. 17mm is close but not close enough for me. I felt it would not seal and without the outer lip touching the shaft completely that on the PTO side it might let debris in to the inner lip of the seal and cause a leak. SKS makes a seal the right dimension but I could never find one for sale but also this seal was plastic case and was not rated for the heat that a PTO seal could endure. I wound up using a 17X30X5 seal but I also used a shaft repair sleeve. It fits over a worn shaft and and makes it a few thousands bigger.

This will make the shaft a few thousands bigger and the seal will fit better.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Transfer-C...613?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0

The part number is a National 99068, The part to the left is the part that slides over the shaft and the part on the right is used to tap the left piece on and is thrown away after used.

Brian

Thanks Brian but the seal I used fit up properly. Mine was sealing lip only. There was no dust seal on it if I recall correctly. It was also a nitrile coated seal.
There are metric seals that have deliberate variances in dimensions which can make it confusing.

Very few of the original seals in the old saws had dust seal lips on them so I don't get concerned about that.

Normal interference between the sealing lip and the shaft is generally .040" to .050"

Thanks for the heads up.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

It's all apart now and needs a few things. but it looks like it should be a good runner.

Cool score, Tim. I'm curious if you found two types of sealant on the short block and whether there was any excess slopped into the bottom pan or any evidence of sealant smearing on the piston. Mine was a real mess as you may recall and I ran across another thread where the guy posted pics of his and the resemblance was so close they could have been pics of my piston and bottom pan.

 

[Scott Sonntag]

Have you checked the kill wire at the coil?

The wire itself is good, but doesn’t hurt to recheck it, thanks for the input
Scott

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Sometimes we simply tend to overlook the obvious while reverse engineering everything else around it trying to solve the wrong problem. Been there, done that..., more than once! It's called "experience". LOL

So did you fix your switch?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Interesting reading here on the improvements made on the SP comparing them to issues on the CP

I took the liberty of converting the images to a PDF for anyone interested in adding the info to their archives.

 

[fossil]

Cool score, Tim. I'm curious if you found two types of sealant on the short block and whether there was any excess slopped into the bottom pan or any evidence of sealant smearing on the piston. Mine was a real mess as you may recall and I ran across another thread where the guy posted pics of his and the resemblance was so close they could have been pics of my piston and bottom pan.

I did find a few spots of black crap on the piston. I haven't cleaned the bottom pan off yet. There seems to be a lot of excess tank sealer (clear) in the fuel tank. I don't know if it factory or other and I'm not sure if it leaks yet.

So far all I can see that it really needs is the lower front isolator, a clutch cover as the part over the muffler is broken. The upper front isolator is goo but I'm OK there. The muffler or duct is solid but interestingly, the spark arrestor inside broke in half and I was able to fish out the broken piece and one of the tubes to locate the screw came loose. It's the most forward one so it's either going to be a ****** getting it back in or I may have to rig something up. At least I have access through the hole where the spark arrestor broke out. Also the stud that holds the screen onto the dust is broken off. I will have to repair that.

I took the liberty of converting the images to a PDF for anyone interested in adding the info to their archives.

I have the whole bulletin in pdf but it's too big of a PDF to load (7 Mb) so I'll email you the whole thing.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Very nice of you, sir. Thank you.

And all things considered, it sounds like you did quite well on the 8200.

 

[fossil]

I need great patience here as the 70 and 82cc saws here are scarce. I'm happy with what I paid. The clutch / muffler cover might be a tough one to get. All the brake guts etc. are there and in good shape.

Going to order a new air compressor tomorrow. My old one (1984 cast iron pump) finally developed a rust hole in the tank despite my diligent draining of the condensate in the tank. It was really too small to do any continuous work with any air tools anyway. I hate to pitch a working pump for the sake of a tank though.

 

[2broke2ride]

Hey guys, what is the correct rebuild kit for a Tillotson HL19D?
Thanks

 

[fossil]

Pg 10

 

[2broke2ride]

Not turning up anything for the RK344. Is there an alternate (aftermarket) kit that works?

 

[fossil]

Not turning up anything for the RK344. Is there an alternate (aftermarket) kit that works?

I would try to match up individual PN's from the old doc and see if you can cross them. The other alternative would be to call these guys. They know their stuff and are the master warehouse for Tillotson

Master Warehouse
V.E Petersen Company, Inc
28101 East Broadway
P.O Box 615
Walbridge, Ohio 43465
Phone: 419-838-5911
Tell Free: 800-537-6212 U.S
Fax: 419-838-7405
[email protected]

 

[rwoods]

Bad MAC day. Bad Deere day. Otherwise a nice day - cool with Flo driving winds and clouds our way. I got my mowing done early today due to starting on it Thursday night. So I decided to work on the wood pile not to far from my basement. My little tractor was having trouble lifting a 30" log that had been bucked in place to firewood length with just a quick cut needed to sever each piece so I grabbed the only saw in the basement that had fuel - the 805 I got from Joey. I had a real difficult time cranking it. Had to bush prime it by splashing fuel on the air filter and squeezing it over the carb (fortunately Joey had modified this one by drilling a hole in the air filter bracket which made for easy and accurate access). After it cranked in seemed to run fine. Made the first tiny cut to halve the log. After moving the log next to the splitter, I cranked the 805 to make the next tiny cut. It died in the cut. I could crank it and it would idle but if you gave it any throttle it would start to die as if you were running out of fuel - so Brian, get ready it is coming to you soon. No big deal as I have several saws in the garage ready to cut just a longer walk up the hill and back. I get another saw and complete the cut. Hooked to the next log and while under tension lose all of the tractor's hydraulics. Several more trips to the garage only to discover that the pump screen is clogged and the dealership is closed until Monday. As I said weather was nice. Flo is expected here late tomorrow.

Ron

 

[heimannm]

I guess I have been slacking lately in my posting. I had been working on this Special Edition 10-10S and finally got it back together with everything working as it should. Initially I thought it would be an easy ring job but I discovered the cylinder had damage to the plating above the exhaust port so I ended up replacing the cylinder/crankcase, new piston/rings, wrist pin seemed a bit loose so I installed a NOS connecting rod. I did add the extra holes for the automatic oil pump to insure it would not leak.

I posted this in the classified ads here and in the other site and it has already been sold...







No need to despair, if you have your heart set on acquiring a 10-10S, I have another in works right now.



It really needed a good cleaning.



Mark

 

[rwoods]

Unlike many of the 1010S you see, at least this one seems to have been used more than once. Ron

 

[BigBlue]

Mark,

What did the 10-10S 'special edition' entail?

Rob

 

[Brian Thacker]

Unlike many of the 1010S you see, at least this one seems to have been used more than once. Ron

Ron it does seam like most of the 10-10s that you see is clean and mostly unused or little use, wonder why that is? Mine was very clean until I got it. I use the heck out of it and it seams to run great and is very reliable. Starts easy, cuts nicely.

Mark, The last one you redone yo said that the cylinder was messed up on. I am taking it that the cylinder is a chrome bore, am I right?

Brian

 

[Brian Thacker]

A guy on a facebook site just posted where he found a new 10-10s at a dealer that had never been sold. Why cannot I find deals like that.

He is asking where he should run it or not. NO SALE IT TO ME!!!...lol

Brian