McCulloch Chain Saws

[CM76]

Question about bearing interchanges. McCulloch bearing # 66016 which is used for the main bearings on the CP/SP125, probably kart 101s and 797s, and who knows what else. Does anybody have the interchange for these? All I can find on the races is SSB USA and it is decidedly unhelpful.

Thanks, Chris B.

Hi Chris,

I have used NSK replacement bearings for all of my SP125 rebuilds. The bearing part No. is 6203VVC3E NS7S.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Chris.

 

[Brian13]

Looks GREAT Brian. Those Super 250's just don't look "right" unless they are wearing a bar like that. BTW-I've stolen these pics you just posted, and am reposting them in the "chainsaw beauty contest" thread. Yell at me if you want me to remove them...

Tune the high speed so that the saw flutters between "four stroking" and "running clean". It will lean out a bit in the cut and run great, without risking the engine.

If I would have known you were going to post elsewhere I would have stole the spikes for the photo op as well. My ear is not so good in judging the four stroking, but I get the idea. Just going to take some playing with.

 

[donthraen]

theirs a 1-53 on eBay 30 min. left only 25 dollars + shipping is that a good price

 

[cbfarmall]

Hi Chris,

I have used NSK replacement bearings for all of my SP125 rebuilds. The bearing part No. is 6203VVC3E NS7S.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Chris.

This is precisely the info I was looking for. Thanks, Chris B.

 

[buzz sawyer]

just to please the 250S club leader...


this saw obviously doesn't like belgians....grrrr

Picture seems blurry - or is that a little beer foam?

 

[donthraen]

Picture seems blurry - or is that a little beer foam?

every time I sharpen my chains that happens to me---that's how I paint my homelites

 

[belgian]

Hope you are ok

Thanks Calvin, but it was a minor bite from the chain only, nothing to worry about. I thought is was a nice pic with the super 250 logo in the background.

Picture seems blurry - or is that a little beer foam?

Let me say that the blood running in my vains gets diluted once in a while...:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

 

[motif]

mcculloch 7-38

Hi Guys,
just bought new mcculloch 7-38 and wanted to ask if it's any good?
I've done few bucking yesterday and I see chain oil is a little leaking?
granted I put a little too much oil in first place but I removed it. Now When I put chainsaw on the ground there are some oil drops after a while.
Also exhaust is a little dark from oil, is it normal?

here is my chainsaw:

One more question I have , how to do bucking small and short logs safely without a buck stand?

thanks

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Hi Guys,
just bought new mcculloch 7-38 and wanted to ask if it's any good?
I've done few bucking yesterday and I see chain oil is a little leaking?
granted I put a little too much oil in first place but I removed it. Now When I put chainsaw on the ground there are some oil drops after a while.
Also exhaust is a little dark from oil, is it normal?

here is my chainsaw:

One more question I have , how to do bucking small and short logs safely without a buck stand?

thanks

Kinda looks like a Poulan Pro, doesn't it? If so, I'd say probably not as good as a Stihl or Husky but generally you get what you pay for. As for the dripping oil..lots of saws do that especially right after they've been run. Just watch where you park it!

 

[Urbicide]

Hi Guys,
just bought new mcculloch 7-38 and wanted to ask if it's any good?
I've done few bucking yesterday and I see chain oil is a little leaking?
granted I put a little too much oil in first place but I removed it. Now When I put chainsaw on the ground there are some oil drops after a while.
Also exhaust is a little dark from oil, is it normal?

here is my chainsaw:

One more question I have , how to do bucking small and short logs safely without a buck stand?

thanks

Motif, welcome to ArboristSite. Some bar oil dripping off of a saw is common and considered normal. Due to gravity, the bar oil which has been pumped onto the bar and chain while cutting will eventually make its way to the lowest point before dripping off. You might try momentarily opening the bar oil fill cap to vent off any built up pressure from within the oil tank when you are finished cutting. Another way of looking at it would be that the saw is not leaking. It is just marking its territory.

The oil residue collecting on the muffler is also a common occurrence. 2-stroke engines, by the nature of the design, are not extremely clean burning engines. A certain amount of un-burnt fuel mixture is expelled from the cylinder along with the exhaust. The type of 2-stroke oil and the amount mixed in the gasoline play a big part in this. A good quality synthetic oil mix will burn cleaner and help reduce the amount of residue collecting on the muffler.

It is more difficult to safely buck up shorter pieces of wood. There are several devices you can buy to help accomplish this more safely. Chain saw protective pants or chain saw chaps will help protect your legs from accidental contact with a moving chain. Steel toed work boots will help protect your feet. Good leather work gloves, hearing protection, and eye protection are all important. You want to keep the chain from coming in contact with the ground underneath the logs which you are cutting. Cut through most of the log, then roll it over and finish your cut. Some do a balancing act by keeping one leg on the log to stabilize it while cutting. It is not a really safe technique to use.

Here are a some tools for you to consider. These are available from Bailey's, whose customer service is legendary.

http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?SKW=TIMBERJACK HANDLE&catID=11507

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=15730&catID=9730

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=CB41&catID=9730

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=SB1500&catID=9730

 

[Urbicide]

Thanks Calvin, but it was a minor bite from the chain only, nothing to worry about. I thought is was a nice pic with the super 250 logo in the background.



Let me say that the blood running in my veins gets diluted once in a while...:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

Looks like some ketchup dripped off of your hamburger and onto your hand. Rather have it end up there than on top of your shoes.

 

[Eccentric]

Thanks Calvin, but it was a minor bite from the chain only, nothing to worry about. I thought is was a nice pic with the super 250 logo in the background.


Let me say that the blood running in my vains gets diluted once in a while...:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

There's a bit of your blood/beer foam mix smeared on the Super 250 nameplate (right under "McCulloch") as well. Nice...

If I would have known you were going to post elsewhere I would have stole the spikes for the photo op as well. My ear is not so good in judging the four stroking, but I get the idea. Just going to take some playing with.

Sorry about the 'covert' grab of your pics. Didn't know your Super 250 wasn't "fully dressed" for the photo-op. Still looked great in the pics. You'll get the tuning down fine.

 

[motif]

Motif, welcome to ArboristSite. Some bar oil dripping off of a saw is common and considered normal. Due to gravity, the bar oil which has been pumped onto the bar and chain while cutting will eventually make its way to the lowest point before dripping off. You might try momentarily opening the bar oil fill cap to vent off any built up pressure from within the oil tank when you are finished cutting. Another way of looking at it would be that the saw is not leaking. It is just marking its territory.

The oil residue collecting on the muffler is also a common occurrence. 2-stroke engines, by the nature of the design, are not extremely clean burning engines. A certain amount of un-burnt fuel mixture is expelled from the cylinder along with the exhaust. The type of 2-stroke oil and the amount mixed in the gasoline play a big part in this. A good quality synthetic oil mix will burn cleaner and help reduce the amount of residue collecting on the muffler.

It is more difficult to safely buck up shorter pieces of wood. There are several devices you can buy to help accomplish this more safely. Chain saw protective pants or chain saw chaps will help protect your legs from accidental contact with a moving chain. Steel toed work boots will help protect your feet. Good leather work gloves, hearing protection, and eye protection are all important. You want to keep the chain from coming in contact with the ground underneath the logs which you are cutting. Cut through most of the log, then roll it over and finish your cut. Some do a balancing act by keeping one leg on the log to stabilize it while cutting. It is not a really safe technique to use.

Here are a some tools for you to consider. These are available from Bailey's, whose customer service is legendary.

http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?SKW=TIMBERJACK HANDLE&catID=11507

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=15730&catID=9730

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=CB41&catID=9730

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=SB1500&catID=9730

thank you Urbicide, very useful tips - appreciate it.

One more question I have now, when I cut wood should I use whole throtle or depends? When I go all the way it is very loud and I wonder if it's good for the engine.

 

[GASoline71]

Wide Open... that saw isn't "loud" my friend... trust me.

Gary

 

[briantutt]

All or none, that's how they run...

 

[Urbicide]

thank you Urbicide, very useful tips - appreciate it.



One more question I have now, when I cut wood should I use whole throttle or depends? When I go all the way it is very loud and I wonder if it's good for the engine.

Your are welcome.


+3

Full throttle. Most saw carburetors are not set up to run at a mid throttle application, so you are in a sense running the saw in a very lean fuel / air mix. The basic carburetor has 2 separate fuel mix adjustments. The low speed circuit just handles idling and provides the initial burst of fuel when the trigger is suddenly engaged for making a cut. The high speed component does not really come into play until the RPM's reach a certain level and the air velocity through the carburetor is great enough to draw fuel from the high speed circuit side of the carburetor. In addition to providing lubrication, the incoming fuel charge plays a major part in keeping the saw cool.

 

[donthraen]

thank you Urbicide, very useful tips - appreciate it.

One more question I have now, when I cut wood should I use whole throtle or depends? When I go all the way it is very loud and I wonder if it's good for the engine.

all open but be careful with small sticks they like to fly back at you

 

[donthraen]

motif hello you just joined a good group of people but 1 thing that saw isn't loud most of these people will agree that one is a whisper to them

 

[RandyMac]

Quiet it will be, it's song might not even register in my right ear. It's loud in there, all that singing and roaring, it takes a real saw to really be heard.

 

[cpr]

Super 250 roll call: present!