be very gentle if using sand blaster , bead blaster is better
cool , glad you have done it before , where are you in aust , im in maryborough qld
If I remember correctly you replaced that oiler not too long ago,maybe last fall or early winter?I've found that with the impulse oilers that the standard B&C oil most people use is too heavy.If you cut the oil at a ratio of 1 pint of either kerosene or diesel fuel per gallon B&C oil you'll see yuou oiler problems go away.In summer you can cut the ratio back to 1/2 pint per gal.
I used to use the high dollar oil, but it's a little too thick so I get the cheap stuff or craftsman brand and that works in my old macs.
I post this on different threads a couple times a year. When I started working for my Dad in 1972, I had never heard of "Bar Oil". We used the cheapest 10W30 we could get at Walmart. When Dad's company got big enough that we started to get direct advertising from the manufacturers, I remember 2 different "Bar Oil" studies. One company said their oil was thicker, and better, because it stuck to the bar and carried the oil around the bar better. The other company said their oil was thinner and was better because it flew off the end of the bar, and carried heat off the bar better. They both had a pile of scientific research that proved their oil was best. We kept using 10W30 because it was way cheaper. We never had an oil related bar failure. Had guys drop climbing saws out of trees and bend bars in half. I'm 63 now and go through about 5 gallons of mix a month, playing with old saws, milling, and firewood. If I see a super sale on Bar oil I'll buy a couple gallons, otherwise it's still 10W30. Most of my old saws are 90+cc Homelites and a few 85-100 CC Macs. My favorite Mac is my 550.
