McCulloch Chain Saws

[heimannm]

Here are some photos of the Titan 50/57 manual oiler and lines.

The clear line below is attached to the output of the manual oiler.



The other end of the output line from the manual oiler connects to the black, hard plastic line shown below.



Finally, this photo shows the disintegrated line from the manual pump connected to the hard black plastic oil line, and the disintegrated pickup line to the automatic pump with the spring inside.



Mark

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Here are some photos of the Titan 50/57 manual oiler and lines.

View attachment 738654 The clear line below is attached to the output of the manual oiler.

View attachment 738655

The other end of the output line from the manual oiler connects to the black, hard plastic line shown below.

View attachment 738658

Finally, this photo shows the disintegrated line from the manual pump connected to the hard black plastic oil line, and the disintegrated pickup line to the automatic pump with the spring inside.

View attachment 738659

Mark

That's AWESOME, thanks Mark I don't know why I couldn't see the pictures in the other post. That gives me a better understanding of the routing of lines even though the 70 has the oil tank in front of the power head.
It kills me that someone just dropped this saw at the scrap yard.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

In love with this bar I hit it with a wire buff on a grinder was a tad rusty and 90 percent of the paint was gone far out it came out nice really like these speed tip bars.
Dam its heavy now though wow I'm a little short 5 foot 9 lol and this thing is just about dragging on the ground Haha.

Do the modern carlton speed tip bars still have that nice blued finish under the paint? I notice the old Oregon bars I have are just bare

 

[Huskybill]

I’m 5’11” / 290# I could pick up 400# parts and put them on the machine. Muscles like popeye from running that 2100 in the woods for decades.

Funny my partner 1655 I went to do a one hand pick up and for the first time I found that old saw heavy. The weights never bothered me before.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

I’m 5’11” / 290# I could pick up 400# parts and put them on the machine. Muscles like popeye from running that 2100 in the woods for decades.

Funny my partner 1655 I went to do a one hand pick up and for the first time I found that old saw heavy. The weights never bothered me before.

You got any macs hiding in your shed mr husky man? I'd love a 2100 but I'll settle for a lowly 288 instead

 

[Huskybill]

I have a Montgomery Wards 610 which is a mcculloch and I have a MW 2.0 /9” bar which is a mcculloch too just relabeled.

Nothing wrong with a 288xp. I have a few partners. I gave my only jred 910e to my son he likes jred.

Let’s not forget it’s probably the mccullochs, the homelites, the pioneer saws ect. That made this country / world what it is today in the lumber industry. Plus the strong willed lumber jacks who worked hard before modern equipment.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

I have a Montgomery Wards 610 which is a mcculloch and I have a MW 2.0 /9” bar which is a mcculloch too just relabeled.

Nothing wrong with a 288xp. I have a few partners. I gave my only jred 910e to my son he likes jred.

Let’s not forget it’s probably the mccullochs, the homelites, the pioneer saws ect. That made this country / world what it is today in the lumber industry. Plus the strong willed lumber jacks who worked hard before modern equipment.

Absolutely agree there they have a huge place in history. Yeah the 288 would be an awesome saw ya pick a nice 1 up here in nz for 400 to 600 bucks nz so 1 hell of a saw for the price especially for firewood.

Have you ever ran a 82cc 10 series? A mac that still has a fight I recon. My mates got a new 390xp stock still and it doesn't have much over my pm800 in 24inch wood not bad for a saw design basically from the late 60s

 

[Huskybill]

I think I have a 181/288 tucked away somewhere they need to be checked out. The prices on these seem to be going up. I have a 385xp with about ten cords of wood it cut. I was thinking about a 390xp kit for it. It took cutting ten cords of firewood to break it in. These new saws have tighter tolarences.
Speaking of older saws ever watch buckin billy Ray Smith on you tube.? He runs older mcculloch saws for his tree cutting business. Watching him I figured I needed a few older saws. His are reworked by his buddy, walker. But those old mcculloch s can cut. I think the older saws are torque monsters.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

I think I have a 181/288 tucked away somewhere they need to be checked out. The prices on these seem to be going up. I have a 385xp with about ten cords of wood it cut. I was thinking about a 390xp kit for it. It took cutting ten cords of firewood to break it in. These new saws have tighter tolarences.
Speaking of older saws ever watch buckin billy Ray Smith on you tube.? He runs older mcculloch saws for his tree cutting business. Watching him I figured I needed a few older saws. His are reworked by his buddy, walker. But those old mcculloch s can cut. I think the older saws are torque monsters.

Yeah I love watching Billy he has a favorite sp81 that's stock and it cuts with his very very trick 372. Its interesting to see the little 10-10s don't have to much to gain with porting and 1 of them was even slower than a stock 1. It seems a guy who wants to port 1 needs alot of experience on them and no doubt screw up a fair few before getting them figured out.

He has a couple ported 82cc saws that really crank though but it seems the smaller stuff is already near maxed from factory

 

[Little Jerrry]

With regards to replacing bearings on a 7-10A, because it's not a clamshell design, how do I ensure I install the bearings so I centre up the conrod correctly in the bore? Obviously the rod has a bit of freeplay, but are the bearings supposed to be pressed on at a certain distance or is one side supposed to be pressed on at a certain distance and the other is not fixed so you can more easily line up the bearings in the journal?

 

[heimannm]

The flywheel side bearing presses up against a step on the shaft and has a locating ring to fix its position in the crankcase. The PTO side is a needle bearing in a sleeve so it can float, the sleeve is held in position by either a small dowel pin or a ring depending on the vintage.

Mark

 

[Little Jerrry]

Thanks mate...given your collection I'm sure you have rebuild a tonne of saws - do you use a hydraulic press or just heat to get the bearings on the crankshaft

Are the locating ring and dowel pin essential or can the two crankcase halves torqued down hold everything in place? I only ask as I'm sourcing new bearings from USA and my concern is that I get sent a replacement bearing that fits the saw but does not have those locators (obviously I can get this confirmed by the seller) as they could be a generic fit for multiple saw models.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I might get hate in this thread but personally I really don't like the almost all bright yellow paint scheme on the McCulloch's. I'm going to have to think of a way to maybe have yellow accents (I can't do a McCulloch saw without yellow) or have satin black mixed with gloss yellow and chrome...i dont know yet.

Some occasional head-scratchin' here, but no hate. LOL

Black is used with yellow in the 10 series quite a bit. May find a scheme you like with a little Googling. I personally like the later PM700 scheme a lot.

 

[heimannm]

The PTO side bearing on the 70 cc saws and up are installed in an insert; the insert will have the hole for the dowel pin or the groove for the locating ring. The bearing (BH108?) presses into the insert; I made an arbor to fit the I.D. of the bearing very precisely to use pressing in bearings in to the insert. If not, you run the risk of twisting the housing slightly that will cause the bearing try to run off the shaft. I thought I had some photos but I can't locate them right now.

I have a bearing separator to pull the bearings and a small arbor press to put them on again. You can heat the bearings to install them but I have had success without heat.

Mark

 

[Little Jerrry]

Thanks Mark - makes sense now with regards to the insert. I definitely have all the tools to remove them, it's the delicate touch (or lack thereof) of the user that I'm worried about .

Do you recognise the number 11858791 - is it remotely close to a build number on a McCulloch? My lower crankcase / oil case lid had it roughly engraved into it but the saw had no ID tag. I'm not sure whether Australia imported them 100% or assembled them locally and did there own thing.

 

[Huskybill]

I just purchased two presses for doing crank bearings. A arbor press and a 12 ton press. With presses it’s easy to distort the case because of the locating pins one must block the case up off the table so the pins don’t contact the table. I ordered pieces of round stock to push the bearings out and in on there outer races.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

This will be fun for an hour or 6 haha

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

This will be fun for an hour or 6 hahaView attachment 739360

Boy that cross section is beautiful, That would make one nice table!

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Boy that cross section is beautiful, That would make one nice table!

Sadly its going in the log burner lol. Macrocarpa you guys call it Monterey cypress it's around 100 120 years old and 5 ft 9 inches wide. The 800 loved it although full comp semi chisel is about the worst chain I could be running though but came with the bar

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Sadly its going in the log burner lol. Macrocarpa you guys call it Monterey cypress it's around 100 120 years old and 5 ft 9 inches wide. The 800 loved it although full comp semi chisel is about the worst chain I could be running though but came with the bar

I have an outdoor burner for the house , but that doesn't stop me from squirreling away a few cool looking boards? You must be loaded with those trees.