McCulloch Chain Saws

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Ok thanks guys awesome. It doesn't like the 3/8 chain but it is warn and haven't tried 325 but doubt it will be 325. I have a 3/8 on it now. I couldn't remember if it was 358 or 354 but knew it was something oddball they had. I have a loop of sabre chain and it's nice. When did sabre bite the dust?

That's a nice bar there Tim

The primer Oring is 012 if anyone wants to know.

Sorry about the gazillion questions I am searching and reading hard putting the knowledge in my head also lol

 

[heimannm]

358 chain is .354 pitch in .058 gauge, 350 chain is .354 pitch in .050 gauge.

Looking at parts and documents I have I see several part numbers for .354 fixed rim type sprockets for 10 Series and part numbers for .354 fixed rim type drums for the large frame saws in both 7 and 8 tooth but none are 62572. That means little with McCulloch since they seemed to change part numbers and have several different part numbers for the same piece.

Mark

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

358 chain is .354 pitch in .058 gauge, 350 chain is .354 pitch in .050 gauge.

Looking at parts and documents I have I see several part numbers for .354 fixed rim type sprockets for 10 Series and part numbers for .354 fixed rim type drums for the large frame saws in both 7 and 8 tooth but none are 62572. That means little with McCulloch since they seemed to change part numbers and have several different part numbers for the same piece.

Mark

Thanks Mark the funny old Mac part numbers eh. I've just had a closer look with 3/8 chain and yeah no way it's 3/8 but no big deal I won't be chasing up funny old chain im intending to use it a bit hear n there and at a sharpen every half tank or so it wouldn't last long.

It's also got this on it too

 

[vinnywv]

Thanks Mark the funny old Mac part numbers eh. I've just had a closer look with 3/8 chain and yeah no way it's 3/8 but no big deal I won't be chasing up funny old chain im intending to use it a bit hear n there and at a sharpen every half tank or so it wouldn't last long.

It's also got this on it tooView attachment 752941

Hi jethro, that 6-10 i worked on last week had one of those on it to. I swapped it out for a floating rim and drum. I had trouble at first with it thinking it was 3/8 pitch. When i rolled the chain it just sounded rough. I determined it to be .354 also. Slightly different but close. Its in a drawer now. I have a couple of nos floating rims in .354 also. Probably not going to ever be used by me.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Hi jethro, that 6-10 i worked on last week had one of those on it to. I swapped it out for a floating rim and drum. I had trouble at first with it thinking it was 3/8 pitch. When i rolled the chain it just sounded rough. I determined it to be .354 also. Slightly different but close. Its in a drawer now. I have a couple of nos floating rims in .354 also. Probably not going to ever be used by me.

Ok so was it just standard issue on those old saws then I spose.

I wonder how much of that chain is still out there maybe 1 day someone mite want those rims of yours or... Maybe not lol who knows

 

[fossil]

Ok thanks guys awesome. It doesn't like the 3/8 chain but it is warn and haven't tried 325 but doubt it will be 325. I have a 3/8 on it now. I couldn't remember if it was 358 or 354 but knew it was something oddball they had. I have a loop of sabre chain and it's nice. When did sabre bite the dust?

That's a nice bar there Tim

The primer Oring is 012 if anyone wants to know.

Sorry about the gazillion questions I am searching and reading hard putting the knowledge in my head also lol

Not sure when Sabre went out of business or if they were bought out. I know the name lives ion in Europe and maybe other places as well. Information about Sabre is scarce from what I've found.
I have at least one Sabre chain somewhere. What I have not been able to find is whether or not they actually made bars or contracted them out. The steel in the ones I have is very hard.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Not sure when Sabre went out of business or if they were bought out. I know the name lives ion in Europe and maybe other places as well. Information about Sabre is scarce from what I've found.
I have at least one Sabre chain somewhere. What I have not been able to find is whether or not they actually made bars or contracted them out. The steel in the ones I have is very hard.

Oh right well that's a bugger it's nice learning about these old company's thanks Tim. It seems a lot of bars are made in Canada is there a heap of bar factorys there or just 1 making them all for everyone?

Tried to fit a pm10-10 flywheel to the 2-10 last night and it's quite different the 2-10 has 2 sets of magnets and is smaller and lighter
Maybe three fins lighter lol
It's come up amazing so much paint loss has turned out to be 30 year old dirt the piston looks new down the port. From a saw that I grabbed because i didn't want it to die alone and knew it had some handy bits and is now 1 of my nicest saws yet the oldest too.

Will get a cutting video today hopfully

 

[vinnywv]

Boy that did clean up nice. I bet it handles easy. That series is pretty light weight. Have fun.

 

[vinnywv]

Saw this today, thought it was interesting. Ive read several posts on meaning and names. Typically the "compression release button" is whats used on modern saws. That automatically pop back up. Mcculloch also used the "DSP valve which is called De Stroking Port" that was a lever. Manually oen and closed by the oerator. But i read this in an ad i saw on ebay thats from a 5-10 series brochure. They actually referred to it as a "Decreased starting Pull" . I just found it interesting.

 

[vinnywv]

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

That's cool old Mac were master's of marketing eh.

It's very very light I picked up an empty pm10-10 with no bar and clutch cover and the 2-10 fully fueled ready with a 16" on it still felt lighter

 

[fossil]

Oh right well that's a bugger it's nice learning about these old company's thanks Tim. It seems a lot of bars are made in Canada is there a heap of bar factorys there or just 1 making them all for everyone?

As far as I know the only two companies making bars in Canada is Blount (Oregon) in Guelph Ontario and Cannon Bar Works in Langley, British Columbia.

Oregon has made bars for a lot of companies as did Windsor

The Oregon plant is about 45 minutes from me and makes all the solid steel bars there as well as a lot of the chain.

The Oregon sales rep from Oklahoma said I could get a plant tour of the Guelph plant but have not done so yet.

Apparently the plant used to be the Planer Chain company which Oregon bought in 1952.

 

[sawfun]

As far as I know the only two companies making bars in Canada is Blount (Oregon) in Guelph Ontario and Cannon Bar Works in Langley, British Columbia.

Oregon has made bars for a lot of companies as did Windsor

The Oregon plant is about 45 minutes from me and makes all the solid steel bars there as well as a lot of the chain.

The Oregon ales rep from Oklahoma said I could get a plant tour of the Guelph plant but have not done so yet.

Apparently the plant used to be the Planer Chain company which Oregon bought in 1952.

Funny, I drive in front of the Oregon chain plant several times a day. Around back you can see their pile of test logs. Most look 24".

 

[fossil]

Funny, I drive in front of the Oregon chain plant several times a day. Around back you can see their pile of test logs. Most look 24".

Do you live down near Guelph?

 

[heimannm]

Don is in Portland, OR. Oregon also operations in Oregon (USA). I picked up a load of smaller saws from a shop out there last year that had been used in testing the kick-back tendencies of different chains.

From the Oregon website:

2002
Blount's corporate headquarters moved from Montgomery, Alabama to Portland, Oregon to the headquarters offices of the company's Outdoor Products segment that consists of Oregon Cutting Systems and ICS. James S. Osterman was elected President and Chief Executive Officer of Blount International, Inc, after serving for 15 years as President of the Outdoor Products Group. Mr. Osterman became Chairman and Chief Executive Officer in 2005.

Some of the saws from Oregon, notice how they modified the handles to fit in their test rig.



Mark

 

[BigBlue]

I have a nice mid-80's vintage Pro Mac 10-10S that I rebuilt a year ago. It has started having an issue that I'm not sure how to diagnose:

It runs like a top for a while. Maybe 10-20 minutes. Then it starts to idle high and when I give it throttle it wants to die. The more gas I give it the more it dies. When it gets like this it will stay that way through restarts (while still warm). Once it's cold the cycle will repeat. But it doesn't act up as soon as the engine warms up... it takes a while, as noted. It's not vapor lock. I've opened the gas cap and that doesn't help.

Any thoughts appreciated.

Thanks,
Rob

 

[joeymt33]

I have a nice mid-80's vintage Pro Mac 10-10S that I rebuilt a year ago. It has started having an issue that I'm not sure how to diagnose:

It runs like a top for a while. Maybe 10-20 minutes. Then it starts to idle high and when I give it throttle it wants to die. The more gas I give it the more it dies. When it gets like this it will stay that way through restarts (while still warm). Once it's cold the cycle will repeat. But it doesn't act up as soon as the engine warms up... it takes a while, as noted. It's not vapor lock. I've opened the gas cap and that doesn't help.

Any thoughts appreciated.

Thanks,
Rob

Have you tried to bottle feed it to see if it is a fuel issue or not? I keep some mix in a spray bottle for times like that.

 

[BigBlue]

Have you tried to bottle feed it to see if it is a fuel issue or not? I keep some mix in a spray bottle for times like that.

Not sure what you mean? Can you explain further, please?

Thanks,
Rob

 

[mogulmasher]

Spray/squirt some fuel directly in carb and fire it up. Keep giving it a shot in the carb to keep it running once it starts. If your able to keep it going you have a fuel delivery issue.

Start in the fuel tank, check filter, condition of fuel line and if there is junk floating around in there. Then check line connection to carb, is it loose, is it split, etc. If that all checks out time to pull carb apart.

 

[joeymt33]

Not sure what you mean? Can you explain further, please?

Thanks,
Rob

Sorry for the slow response time. Just what he mentioned above, if you can or can’t keep it going with a spray bottle it will help point you in a direction