McCulloch Chain Saws

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Thanks, thats the first time ive cut with it. It really ran great. Chain wont stop though. Ill look into that later. Weak spring perhaps. But i was impressed. After i got started i gave it full throttle. You can hear it in the second cut really well. Great saw.

Is it bushed or bearing? I remember Kevin having trouble not long ago with a chain not stopping
 
Hi gang,I've been out of action due to back surgery earlier this month.I started dipping my fingers back into the oil slowly.I picked up a fairly good looking Timberbear a couple of weeks ago & I tore it apart the other day to examine the P&C.They both looked good,no scoring & good compression.I swapped over the bar & chain off my old TB & had to swap the carb as well.I have myself a nice running TB once again.I'll try to get some pics on here tomorrow.
Ed

Glad your mending. Ron
 
Ill swap clutches with the other cp ive got. Thatll narrow it down quick.
The Remington I have has an organic clutch when it gets hot it'll spin the chain at idle, and the pro mac 55 has a new rim sprocket drum and it'll spin until I make a few cuts ( all metal). I don't know if you have some new parts in there but they might just have to wear a little.
 
Riddle me this Batman??? So i swapped the clutches out and the other clutch worked as it should on the cp125 that is in the video. Chain stopped moving just fine. I thought ok, the spring is weak in that one clutch.
So for ***** and giggles i put the clutch in question onto the other cp125 and the chain comes to a stop at idle?????
My thoughts are...for one leave them be and live life, for sure..2nd the other cp125 i have has a different reed valve set up from a sp125 and runs a bit different. It will out cut the other cp125 and definately outcut my sp105 and its no slouch. It also idles smoother. Im guessing its lower at idle enough to disengage the drum. Still may have a weaker spring but to quote maintenance supervisor, "Problem Solved" ha ha
 
How far gone is the chain? No better time to learn is now man. Make sure the cutter has a C shape from the side make sure if its chisel chain that the working corner is nice if not keep filling until it is.

Go n get a raker gauge a progressive 1 like the husky type then the shorter cutters wont matter. It's like tying shoes man. Top plate angle isn't very crucial side plate angle (the C) is and raker height is. That's all that's needed to get a chain cutting as good as most grinder jobs from the apprentice at the saw shop if not better.

Once you get quite good at it youl never take a chain there to be butchered again lol

Another thing is the old nearly gone chains cut the best of all.

It takes 5 or 6 min to whip around a 20 inch bar with a file between tanks and chains last a long long time as the nice edge is only a couple strokes away.

Also ya bar never gets a hammering as the chain pulls itself into the wood

I'm not sure. It looks relatively good but I usually judge a chain by how it cuts. It is a mixed bag when cutting, which I think it is due to the chain-to-bar fit more than anything. Sometimes it seems to hook up well and cut fast and sometimes it just won't go. I'll attach a pic of the chain itself. There seems to be a lot of 'slop' when it try to tilt the chain left/right in the bar groove. More than my 10-10S which is in good condition. I suspect that's why it cuts at an angle. So it seems to me that I'd have to pinch the bar tighter to make the slot narrower. Unsure if I can do that evenly along the whole cutting surface of the bar.

Thanks,
Rob
 

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I'm not sure. It looks relatively good but I usually judge a chain by how it cuts. It is a mixed bag when cutting, which I think it is due to the chain-to-bar fit more than anything. Sometimes it seems to hook up well and cut fast and sometimes it just won't go. I'll attach a pic of the chain itself. There seems to be a lot of 'slop' when it try to tilt the chain left/right in the bar groove. More than my 10-10S which is in good condition. I suspect that's why it cuts at an angle. So it seems to me that I'd have to pinch the bar tighter to make the slot narrower. Unsure if I can do that evenly along the whole cutting surface of the bar.

Thanks,
Rob

Ok well the chain has a heap of life left so that's good. Will need a file for sure The bar needs dressed definitely is it laminated or a solid bar? I'm told laminated bars don't take well to squeezing but I've never tried as all my bars are solid.

I gently take a hammer and knock knock all the way along and keep checking with the drivers until it's nice
 
Thanks for the additional tips. When I get some time I'll take the bar off and maybe run one of my other chains on it to see if it is the chain or the bar groove that is the problem. Maybe someone just bought the wrong chain for it and that's the root of the problem. Part of me wants to just buy a new bar and chain (can get them for about $36 on eBay) but the other part of me says "the saw only cost you $20 so that would be stupid."

Rob
 
Thanks for the additional tips. When I get some time I'll take the bar off and maybe run one of my other chains on it to see if it is the chain or the bar groove that is the problem. Maybe someone just bought the wrong chain for it and that's the root of the problem. Part of me wants to just buy a new bar and chain (can get them for about $36 on eBay) but the other part of me says "the saw only cost you $20 so that would be stupid."

Rob

Cool man it's a great feeling getting a chain n bar cutting well. Job satisfaction.
I'm enjoying fixing up mates stuff and the look on there face when it falls through the wood
 
I'm not sure. It looks relatively good but I usually judge a chain by how it cuts. It is a mixed bag when cutting, which I think it is due to the chain-to-bar fit more than anything. Sometimes it seems to hook up well and cut fast and sometimes it just won't go. I'll attach a pic of the chain itself. There seems to be a lot of 'slop' when it try to tilt the chain left/right in the bar groove. More than my 10-10S which is in good condition. I suspect that's why it cuts at an angle. So it seems to me that I'd have to pinch the bar tighter to make the slot narrower. Unsure if I can do that evenly along the whole cutting surface of the bar.

Thanks,
Rob

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TM90U78?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Buy one of these also , cheap amd easy.
 
Ok maybe a McCulloch question, I just got done putting a 3400 poulan countervibe together and I'm not all that impressed with it? The saw runs great ,does everything it should but honestly I thought it would be about as powerful as my pro mac 55 or 10-10s and its not ?plain ans simple. So my question is should it be as powerful as my pro mac 10-10s or 55?
 
Ok maybe a McCulloch question...,

Sounds more like a Poulan question. LOL

The 3400's certainly have their own following but are notorious for being low compression saws. I suspect that would play a major role in any favorable comparison to a 10-10S or PM55 power-wise. I'd grab one of the Macs over a 3400 any day unless I wanted or needed the a/v. Obviously a difference in favor of the Poulan there.
 
Sounds more like a Poulan question. LOL

The 3400's certainly have their own following but are notorious for being low compression saws. I suspect that would play a major role in any favorable comparison to a 10-10S or PM55 power-wise. I'd grab one of the Macs over a 3400 any day unless I wanted or needed the a/v. Obviously a difference in favor of the Poulan there.

Ok , I was just wondering and it seems be like an older husky 55 as far as feel for the cutting capability but I have at least 2 regular 10-10 automatics thay definitely have more grunt .
P.S. I didnt want to offend any one on the green team.
 

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