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McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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Ok, so I have 2 problems. First, the aftermarket fuel line I installed (Stens) had a pin hole in it. I probably caused it forcing a spring inside to keep the flimsy line from kinking. I reinstalled the oe line with some teflon tape for now. Anyone come up with a viable option to fix this yet? The aftermarket lines suck and those no leak line kits are quite pricey.
That did not solve my problem, still running very erratic so I swapped the carb from my good running 10-10 and it runs perfect.
I am going to get back in the carb but I'm wondering what y'all think I should be looking for? It's like it is just randomly running out of fuel, that is why I asked about the metering lever but I set it level with the metering chamber floor and I guess that's where it should be.
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That did not solve my problem, still running very erratic so I swapped the carb from my good running 10-10 and it runs perfect.
I am going to get back in the carb but I'm wondering what y'all think I should be looking for? It's like it is just randomly running out of fuel, that is why I asked about the metering lever but I set it level with the metering chamber floor and I guess that's where it should be.
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This is good news have you got a log lying around to let it eat?
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I do, but unfortunately it is dark here at this point so that will need to wait until tomorrow. I think I'm going to order a high speed check valve for the carb.
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I should have put three more out but there like an 8 cylinder lol.
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Went back out to the shop after the 5-10 had achance to cool off and it fired right back up no problem. Which welch plug is the check valve under? Of course I lost the smaller one that came in my kit.
Messing with other saws, I made an interesting discovery. On the PM700 that I got from Poge I had noticed the muffler cover looked a bit strange so I decided to investigate. It is the reed type muffler and apparently the reed broke at some point. So, someone thought it would be a good idea to unbolt what was left of the reed, slide it down to cover the hole and weld it on three sides!!!!! I wish I had taken pictures!!! I dont know how the saw ran at all, kind of explains why it seemed a bit down on power for the short test cut I did with it when I first got it. For now I just ground the reed off with my angle grinder and put it back together. I will probably make another custom cover for it.
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Messing with other saws, I made an interesting discovery. On the PM700 that I got from Poge I had noticed the muffler cover looked a bit strange so I decided to investigate. It is the reed type muffler and apparently the reed broke at some point. So, someone thought it would be a good idea to unbolt what was left of the reed, slide it down to cover the hole and weld it on three sides!!!!! I wish I had taken pictures!!! I dont know how the saw ran at all, kind of explains why it seemed a bit down on power for the short test cut I did with it when I first got it. For now I just ground the reed off with my angle grinder and put it back together. I will probably make another custom cover for it.
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Weekend Commentary - From Personal Experience
No truer statement has been made here than this:
Or this:
For the unwary, buying a Mac parts saw is like hopping on a runaway train.
Be careful out there.
Ron
This commentary is brought to you by Blind Squirrel Falling, one of America's greatest imaginary businesses. The views expressed are those of the author, and though true, they are not the official position of BS Falling.
No truer statement has been made here than this:
Good times ahead then
I like that too the rat rod. Need to build a muffler cover like Kevin's and I like how its bits of a few saws. I love these 10s for that so many parts fit or can fiddle to fit. You can always build some kind of running saw from a box of a few.
Or this:
For the unwary, buying a Mac parts saw is like hopping on a runaway train.
Be careful out there.
Ron
This commentary is brought to you by Blind Squirrel Falling, one of America's greatest imaginary businesses. The views expressed are those of the author, and though true, they are not the official position of BS Falling.
You said it once too Ron. "That's not a parts saw thats a saw waiting for parts"
I am almost done cleaning up the 33 Series saws in preparation for moving them over to the museum. The latest subject is another 39 that, if I remember correctly, came from Bob Johnson a few years ago. I need to try an find an original fuel cap as the custom unit on the saw does stand out a bit...the problem is the 39 is an early model saw and the diameter of the threaded portion is smaller than most of the series.
As received
Now
The bar polished up nicely as well, can you tell I was wearing a red coat?
Mark
As received
Now
The bar polished up nicely as well, can you tell I was wearing a red coat?
Mark
That is awesoooooomme!!!!!
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Could be a bad check valve.
Ed
Ed
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That's what I'm thinking, just seems weird, the rest of the carb was really clean and probably could have gone without a kit.
How about the fuel line? Anyone got ideas there?
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The bigger one , I usually just run my 700s without the reed.
I did a write up on changing the check valve a few pages back , it can be tricky, baking the carb a 250° degrees for about 30minutes helps the brass insert pop out.
Ther are 2 types of check valves , 1 is like a soft diaphragm material that turns to goo and the other 1 is a harder fiber material that is tan and I've only seen it in the non H adjusted carbs, but could be in others.
It doesn't matter how much you clean that carburetor you won't be able to tell whats under the plug, I've cleaned them so well the valve material was totally gone, its the tiny black disc that comes in the rebuild kit. The brass insert is its own complete kit.
Mark, would you know a modern part number for the crank seals for the MAC 35?
Brian
Brian
It's my recent understanding that along with the two types of check valves, there are also thick and thin pump side gaskets for different SDC models. May want to check which carb you have to determine which gasket it requires.
SDC Pump Side Gaskets
SDC Pump Side Gaskets
Agreed on the aftermarket lines, I've had a couple turn to hard plastic under fuel exposure. If I recall, Oregon makes one that's decent, but I've never tried it personally.
It seems there are several other solutions posted, a popular one being teflon tape. I went with thick fuel line with tygon run through it on two 10-10, both holding up well:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/the-unofficial-mac-10-10-thread.201506/page-65
You wouldn't necessarily have to change the barb, but it's a heck of a lot easier than fighting with the factory "fat" one.
I started researching various bulkhead barbs at one point and have a few in mind I'd like to try, but have yet to pull the trigger on.
