Thats shiiiiiinnyy
I pulled the clutch on the PM700,what a mess,broken spider & broken spindles on the other side where the rim fit on.I never saw anything like it before.
Also,I took a compression test on it & to tell the truth I'm surprised the saw even ran.On 5 pulls it only had 80# & on 10 pulls it only had 115# compression.I called Bob J.& cancelled my parts order for it.As far as I'm concerned the saw is now a parts saw (what few parts are left).Good old Feebay for ya.
Ed
You could add a wing to the museum with what you could get for those on ebay. LOLI also uncovered these while looking for additional 600 Series air filters.
It has the giant 5/8" mac pintail chain on it.
gear drive chain, its huge compared to 3/8" pitch. This stuff makes 1/2" look small.A what now?
If you are asking about your PM8200, it has a gasket between the carb and the tank, then a rubber boot to the intake insulator, then a gasket between the insulator and the cylinder.Saw starts and runs for little bit. Then it revs up and stalls out. Pretty sure gasket between carb and block is shot. Where can I find a replacement? I’m clearly not using right keywords as I keep getting carb kit results!
For restoration purposes the hard nose bar is great... but honestly I don't care for them in daily use.Well, since the 7-10 turned into a dumpster fire, I switched to the Super 250. Have yet to run it, but it does fire on prime (sounds so good), and I can pick the saw up by the pull start - which is saying something when the PHO weighs in at ~20lbs. Haven't put the guage on it yet. Excited about this and it looks to be in pretty good condition, aside from the tank rot I posted a while back. So... new tank courtesy of Bob (that one hurt a little), and reassembly pending a couple gaskets and bolt grommets. Oil pump is kinda crusty, but functionally feels very smooth. I assume the carb will need to be run through, but I'm gonna try it out as-is and see what happens.
The oil tank bolt/nut situation cracks me up, just... why? You have to take the tank apart just to bolt it up? Not a big deal, just griping. I actually found it funny because this is my first one like this, so after unbolting it I'm like "what's that rattling sound in the oil tank?" Good thing though, because the oil tank breather felt was just laying in the tank instead of being secured via the cotter pin, and honestly the tank popped apart with no problem - going to re-use the gasket as it didn't adhere/tear.
Still need a bar and chain. The clutch sprocket should be a .404 based on the numbers I saw (51774B) so I'm debating whether or not I want to try and find a .404 sprocket nose bar or just go hardnose. I've read a LOT of posts about one vs the other, but have yet to find a post about the real world difference other than the whole hardnose in dirty wood situation. That said, I'm thinking this would be pretty sweet:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-MC...IN-COMBO-125-250-300-450-550-D44/142856934727
Thanks! This is more along the lines of a real world answer I was looking for. From what I've read, it's not hard to adapt a D009 to fit, so I might go that route. Do you modify bars to fit, or use adapters? Or both. I've read other threads about bar adaptation, but curious what your experience is since you mentioned it.For restoration purposes the hard nose bar is great... but honestly I don't care for them in daily use.
If I was gonna cut with it more than expeditions or gtg's I'd adapt a modern sprocket nose to it , in my opinion it just works better and is alittle easier on the thumb when oiling with a push button.
I've adapted modern bars to McCulloch, Remington, and big homelites and have enjoyed cutting with the cheaper selections.
Well for the big homelite using a D009 bar mount is pretty close , the slot needs wided maybe a mm and the adjustment holes bored just a little ,same is pretty much the same for the Remington. The 10 series mac is one I've done a k095 husky bar for but it oils through the adjustment hole on top so any bar you put a slot down from the rail is gonna oil.Thanks! This is more along the lines of a real world answer I was looking for. From what I've read, it's not hard to adapt a D009 to fit, so I might go that route. Do you modify bars to fit, or use adapters? Or both. I've read other threads about bar adaptation, but curious what your experience is since you mentioned it.
Air filter? Yeah no joke .No offense but when someone wants to give me a Mac In the future I’m gonna want a 50 dollar bill to go with it.
This sucker is kicking my arse.