Must be contagious?I need to head to the shop and post my 2 saws up for sale.
Homelite collector in training! [emoji879]
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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Poor sob didnt get the memo?Someone didn't get the rare and valuable memo I guess.
Homelite collector in training! [emoji879]
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I have 4 610's & a Timberbear that are runners & I have no issues with them leaking oil at all.I do have issues with every one of the auto oilers though.I gave up on the auto oilers yrs.ago.
People are getting ridiculous ideas in their heads from EBay.... case in point. I guess my Mini Macs are worth at least 3 - 400???
To think i bought a minimac last year at the local flea market for $5.00. I got one heck of a bargain. Runs like a champ too
At least!
I understand if you have a new in box saw, but that 700 I saw has broken clutch cover and who knows what else "fixed" people are willfully ignorant or desperately stupid.
I'd take that deal any day of the week!
The older 600 Series saws had a separate check valve on the inlet very similar to the 10 Series, in fact the disk is the same. Replace the gasket and diaphragm and perhaps a shot of brake cleaner for the automatic oil pump (down the hole where the piston goes) and everyone has worked for me provided the pick up tube is still attached.
Mark
Mark
On the other hand, the later pumps with the integral check valve on the inlet side seem to be rather problematic...
Mark
Mark
So when I smashed my .020 over 10-10 a month ago I picked up another pro mac 10-10 at the scrap yard for 23$ for parts incase I didn't have something.
Well after cleaning it up... it was too nice to part out. It needed filters air/fuel ,carb kit,and a tank gasket.
I did use the fuel cap on my Pro Mac 60.
So I used a Homelite cap and discovered that the threaded shank that goes into the tank is too deep and allows fuel to leak out . An O-ring isn't really a good fit so I had a rubber grommet for a vacuum booster and took a razor and split it in half. The flat rubber seals much better ,it was a tight fit.
Well after cleaning it up... it was too nice to part out. It needed filters air/fuel ,carb kit,and a tank gasket.
I did use the fuel cap on my Pro Mac 60.
So I used a Homelite cap and discovered that the threaded shank that goes into the tank is too deep and allows fuel to leak out . An O-ring isn't really a good fit so I had a rubber grommet for a vacuum booster and took a razor and split it in half. The flat rubber seals much better ,it was a tight fit.
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Had a line on a super 797 for $50 today. Guy said I had first shot, then ghosted me. Post is deleted now. Figure someone probably offered him more, I never had the chance. I hope someone here or another enthusiast got it and it doesnt end up on Ebay for a quick buck.
Thanks @mogulmasher for sending me the link on it.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Thanks @mogulmasher for sending me the link on it.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Somebody might wanna jump on this Super 550....
https://fayar.craigslist.org/tls/d/rogers-chainsaw/7156419038.html
https://fayar.craigslist.org/tls/d/rogers-chainsaw/7156419038.html
Not for $350,missing the recoil cover & who knows else...
I now have some steel handles made up to fit the SP105/125 saws.
This is the SP105.
This is the SP125.
They are heavier than the original so I expect they will hold up very well.
If anyone is interested in one please send a PM.
Mark
This is the SP105.
This is the SP125.
They are heavier than the original so I expect they will hold up very well.
If anyone is interested in one please send a PM.
Mark
Gas cap experimentation happened today... This has been bugging me for a while, so I finally took action. Hopefully something worthwhile-ish 
10 series gas cap; duck bill had turned to goo, but when trying to get it apart (all plastic, not the brass center) it all crumbled, including the middle "tube" that is part of the gas cap. JBWeld to the rescue!
First I cut down the center tube with a 3/4" forstner, and then poked a wire through the vent hole (coated with oil) hoping that the JBWeld I was going to "pour" in there wouldn't stick. That mostly worked, and JBWeld flows reasonably well on a nice hot summer day and the wire maintained the hole with minimal grief removing it. Grease would probably be better than oil next time.
This is (was) a brass plug I picked up at the big box while contemplating this project one day. I drilled it out all the way through with a 5/32 to fit a duckbill (i think "poulan"? just because I had some) and then drilled it again with 13/64, but not all the way through. This left a seat of sorts for the duckbill, so it would push through and seal (hopefully).
Back to the JBWeld filled cap... That got drilled out with a 3/16 and then tapped. The spring is actually a meter lever spring that I stretched out over a drift (both length and width). Not ideal, but it works until I can find something better. The JBWeld is perfect, because it's hard enough to hold threads, but soft enough that it seals the brass plug when threaded in. I also drilled a little pocket in there for the spring to sit in.
So far, so good... I have yet to field test this, but it doesn't dribble gas out the top of the cap any more! Still need to see how this goes though... might drill out the smaller hole in the brass to 11/64th - it really needs to be between 5/32 and 11/64 I think, but we'll see. 5/32 is kinda snug, and I'm afraid 11/64 will be too loose around the duckbill. Also need to find a better spring option. Anyway, as I said, it doesn't leak gas out the vent hole now when turned upside down, and the spring action should allow tank pressure to blow off before it forces the carb needle off it's seat. That spring is kinda weak though, so hopefully it keeps the duckbill seated after pressure blows off.
On the upside, now it's serviceable again, and that JBWeld will outlive the cap.
10 series gas cap; duck bill had turned to goo, but when trying to get it apart (all plastic, not the brass center) it all crumbled, including the middle "tube" that is part of the gas cap. JBWeld to the rescue!
First I cut down the center tube with a 3/4" forstner, and then poked a wire through the vent hole (coated with oil) hoping that the JBWeld I was going to "pour" in there wouldn't stick. That mostly worked, and JBWeld flows reasonably well on a nice hot summer day and the wire maintained the hole with minimal grief removing it. Grease would probably be better than oil next time.
This is (was) a brass plug I picked up at the big box while contemplating this project one day. I drilled it out all the way through with a 5/32 to fit a duckbill (i think "poulan"? just because I had some) and then drilled it again with 13/64, but not all the way through. This left a seat of sorts for the duckbill, so it would push through and seal (hopefully).
Back to the JBWeld filled cap... That got drilled out with a 3/16 and then tapped. The spring is actually a meter lever spring that I stretched out over a drift (both length and width). Not ideal, but it works until I can find something better. The JBWeld is perfect, because it's hard enough to hold threads, but soft enough that it seals the brass plug when threaded in. I also drilled a little pocket in there for the spring to sit in.
So far, so good... I have yet to field test this, but it doesn't dribble gas out the top of the cap any more! Still need to see how this goes though... might drill out the smaller hole in the brass to 11/64th - it really needs to be between 5/32 and 11/64 I think, but we'll see. 5/32 is kinda snug, and I'm afraid 11/64 will be too loose around the duckbill. Also need to find a better spring option. Anyway, as I said, it doesn't leak gas out the vent hole now when turned upside down, and the spring action should allow tank pressure to blow off before it forces the carb needle off it's seat. That spring is kinda weak though, so hopefully it keeps the duckbill seated after pressure blows off.
On the upside, now it's serviceable again, and that JBWeld will outlive the cap.
Do you notice the weight difference? I'm guessing on those animals probably not, especially for just the handle.
Ironically (to me) I'm in a weight debate of a different nature in my head right now - I'm contemplating a lightweight Tsumura 28" for my Super 250, but I keep wondering if it will make a noticeable difference or not on a saw that's inherently pretty hefty...
My 610 and the extras it came with - I finally took a little look at them. I assume they are 610s as well.
- The black one has a broken chain brake and needs a need spark plug lead/cap.
- The runner (with bar on) has a stiff chain brake, leaks bar oil and has some sort of makeshift repair to the fuel tank casing. Apart from that it seems to go fine.
- The other yellow one is missing the chain brake, has a broken bottom plate and no starter spring. (no model number)
That's just what is obvious from the outside.
- The black one has a broken chain brake and needs a need spark plug lead/cap.
- The runner (with bar on) has a stiff chain brake, leaks bar oil and has some sort of makeshift repair to the fuel tank casing. Apart from that it seems to go fine.
- The other yellow one is missing the chain brake, has a broken bottom plate and no starter spring. (no model number)
That's just what is obvious from the outside.
Looks like you can put together one complete saw and have some spare parts.
One already runs but yeah I'm hoping to get at least one of the others running. I'll check the cylinders sometime.
