McCulloch Chain Saws

[PogoInTheWoods]

If it's not, you'll just get more practice takin' it apart and puttin' it back together a few more times.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

If I press it down to the chamber floor the needle does move.

Actually, It should open the needle sooner than that -- about halfway between resting and the chamber floor. It should be fairly obvious as opposed to "did I see it move the needle a little bit?"

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I just happened to have one handy...

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[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Looks like it may have taken a little work to get that notch cleaned out. Makes all the difference in the world too, doesn't it? Are Humboldts a common practice down your way, or are you the only guy in NZ who uses them after watching all those BBR vids? LOL

And the cows are gonna get out.

Hahaha probably the only 1 lol. Every time I try conventional I make a mess of it well what id consider a mess anyway so just kinda stuck with them for ease and also I like the way the tree let's go of the stump. It kinda gets a shove forwards rather than holding on the last little bit and bouncing up or even sitting on the stump. Another thing is it makes a better first round for firewood but yeah mostly just easier.

The cleaning was needed i slightly messed it up a tad and had a we dutchman to sort.

Too many Billy Ray vids lol. Couldn't of put it any better. It's actually the only way I've learned how to cut trees and file a chain. If ya can stand the guy there is learning to be done. Have had some bad leaners some big ass trees. Had trees leading hard back and pretty much his methods will get ya through.

Bore cut and snipped the trigger on a hard leaner yesterday to avoid a chair and the property owner was quite surprised at that technique. He had dropped 1 tree a couple weeks back with his ms 170. It was a leaner he had no idea about hinges or notches or anything he chewed it off and down it came and now he sees he was actually rather lucky not to smash his shed or himself. He recons it took an hour lol the hinge was the bit the bar couldn't reach. This is not a dig at him but this is how most people cut down a tree if they never seek some knowledge and never have any idea of the danger.

 

[buzz sawyer]

I got it even with the carb body, used a small flat screwdriver to hold the needle end down close to the retaining pin and bent the larger diaphragm end down until even. If I press it down to the chamber floor the needle does move. Does that sound good enough for an old Mini Mac?

View attachment 860699

Yeah, they don't use a lot of fuel.

 

[MacAttack]

I just happened to have on handy...

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Mine seems to function about the same, I can try to upload a video. I sure appreciate you taking the time to do that!

 

[Syncop8r]

Bore cut and snipped the trigger on a hard leaner yesterday to avoid a chair and the property owner was quite surprised at that technique.

I recently watched some sort of 'official' US tree-felling video where they said to do a bore cut as standard and the upper front cut was a really steep angle.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

I recently watched some sort of 'official' US tree-felling video where they said to do a bore cut as standard and the upper front cut was a really steep angle.

It's a pretty safe way of felling a tree. I don't get it if not needed though but no doubt there will be reasons. If no lean or a backwards lean it seems kinda pointless just makes it awkward to wedge

 

[2broke2ride]

Need ideas on Pro Mac 10 10s with no spark. Saw was given to me as-is so I never saw it running. Flywheel magnets seem very strong. I tried another used coil assembly and got weak spark. Because the spark improved with faster pulls on the starter, I reduced the gap from 0.010 to 0.005 and spark improved. The wire to the kill switch is not shorting to ground and I even disconnected it from the coil. Coil is grounded correctly. Tried two other plugs - no change. Will try changing the plug wire on the replacement coil today. I did try another wire on the orig. coil - no change. Compression is 140. Saw was originally packed with sawdust/oil. I thought maybe the lack of air caused the orig. coil to overheat. Maybe it affected the flywheel magnets?

I hope someone can help you, I have no useful input, only thing I can think of is weak magnets. I have a similar issue right now with a Stihl blower.

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[PogoInTheWoods]

I'd check for correct keyway/timing alignment in both cases.

 

[buzz sawyer]

I hope someone can help you, I have no useful input, only thing I can think of is weak magnets. I have a similar issue right now with a Stihl blower.

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk

I'd check for correct keyway/timing alignment in both cases.

Good suggestions, Thanks! - Both on the to-do list. Flywheel on the way to try. I did get the XL12 and 4-20 homelites running - funny, the older saws always run.

 

[MacAttack]

I made my own video operating the inlet lever and needle with a toothpick, I tried to get a few shots showing how close the lever is to even with the carb body. I feel like this will work? Considering I never even bothered to check this on other Mini Macs, but this one was leaking gas and running obscenely rich, no doubt because some idiot had bent the inlet lever up about a 1/8 inch above the carb body.

 

[Manic84]

It looks about right. The needle doesn't really have to move that much to let fuel in. From experience, when needle movement is really noticeable, usually the lever is set too high and it'll flood out royally.
Just set the lever about as close to flush with the carb body as you can, and do a pressure test to remove any doubts or problems early.

 

[MacAttack]

It looks about right. The needle doesn't really have to move that much to let fuel in. From experience, when needle movement is really noticeable, usually the lever is set too high and it'll flood out royally.
Just set the lever about as close to flush with the carb body as you can, and do a pressure test to remove any doubts or problems early.

Yep, part of my procedure on these carbs is to pressure test the fuel line before the saw gets assembled. If it holds, it's good to go. They are a pretty simple device, I have a Mini Mac 30 that runs great that has never been apart, the carb has never been allowed to sit unused for any length of time so the original components never stiffened up or broke down. I've only ever had problems with these little Walbro carbs when they've sat long enough for the diaphragms to get stiff, or like in this case when some dummy had been inside them.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Good suggestions, Thanks! - Both on the to-do list. Flywheel on the way to try. I did get the XL12 and 4-20 homelites running - funny, the older saws always run.

I'd check for correct keyway/timing alignment in both cases.

Update - I pulled the flywheel and it was aligned correctly. I reinstalled it and turned the engine with my cordless drill. I found that at 200 rpm, no spark. When I got to 800 - 1000 rpm, I have nice consistent spark. I've never measured this on any other saw so I have nothing to compare. Unless this is normal, seems like this has to point to either flywheel or coil/module.

 

[heimannm]

Does anyone have an idea where I can find material suitable for making fuel pump and metering diaphragms? I would like to locate some of the Mylar/Teflon material if possible.



Mark

 

[2broke2ride]

Got this thing today, not sure if I scored or not lol. It was free but it is rough. The piston looks like crap through the intake port, probably from ingesting a steady diet of sawdust thanks to he failed air filter. And the carb and fuel tank both had rusty water in them. But it blows 160psi on my gauge and fires on prime so I will kit the carb and see if it will run.

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[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Got this thing today, not sure if I scored or not lol. It was free but it is rough. The piston looks like crap through the intake port, probably from ingesting a steady diet of sawdust thanks to he failed air filter. And the carb and fuel tank both had rusty water in them. But it blows 160psi on my gauge and fires on prime so I will kit the carb and see if it will run.

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If anything there's a clutch and ignition for a 10 lol

 

[edju1958]

One good thing is the tank is plastic,so it'll clean up good.I've got a good engine for a 610,it just needs seals.I had it running last yr.for a very short time.I didn't do a compression test,but it wouldn't take much to do one.

 

[heimannm]

With 160 PSI compression it should run pretty well, a new one might be over 200 PSI but they still run and cut down below 130. It won't be your favorite saw to run, but it might make a good loaner...

Mark