McCulloch Chain Saws

[rwoods]

North East Tennessee MAC Report

Beautiful afternoon in North East Tennessee mid-60s to 70 with cloudy skies and a nice breeze. My usual Sunday family activities were interrupted by some with a stomach bug and my wife not feeling well after her 2nd shingles vaccine shot so I did a little cutting to get the world back in balance as Jethro has knocked it out of whack with all his Zland cutting.

The 800 took down two MAC worthy trees today both 30".

30" White oak. Only got an 8' log out of the big end due to the twins. (Note the split tree in the background.)


30" Red oak. Got an 18' log off the big end. (Note the split tree in the second picture.)

In excess of 4000#, the red oak log proved too heavy for my tractor to lift so I had to chain the tractor to a tree and winch it to the log pile.

I believe the split tree in the pictures is hickory. My experience with it began about a month ago with a big wind blown oak stuck in its forks about 30' up. The tree split when I winched out the oak using two snatch blocks. It left a large 15' dangling slab which I spent 20 minutes with the tractor today removing so I could safely work around it. Later when I cut the red oak, a limb hit it dead center and split it down the middle. I could have saved the earlier tractor work. The potential energy in an upright tree is certainly a reckoning force.

Be safe,

Ron

 

[northwest saws]

Alright folks I need a little help. I picked this up just a couple days ago. I think it's a 2-10 but not sure. Label is gone and there are no other identifiers next to the serial. There is no decomp and also no powersharp hardware. Any thoughts?

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

 

[Syncop8r]

Well it looks identical to my 2-10. Mind you, I haven't seen a RH-start 10-10 to compare.

I think mine says
11976
C3
in the same place.

 

[Woodslasher]

Alright folks I need a little help. I picked this up just a couple days ago. I think it's a 2-10 but not sure. Label is gone and there are no other identifiers next to the serial. There is no decomp and also no powersharp hardware. Any thoughts?

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

Could be a 5-10 that isn't a DSP. If it's not a 5-10 I'd say it's a 2-10.

 

[matt_lamb_160]

The top cover looks just like my 2-10, but the stop switch is more like my 10-10 (the 2-10 I have is a push in button for starting with a decomp and throttle lock). The linkages for the carb adjustment screws seem to look like my 2-10 (I would need to see a better top view image of yours).

All the 2-10s that I have seen with the deep top and Walbro have the decompressor style switch.

 

[Syncop8r]

The top cover looks just like my 2-10, but the stop switch is more like my 10-10 (the 2-10 I have is a push in button for starting with a decomp and throttle lock).

The stop switch looks the same as on my 2-10.

 

[matt_lamb_160]

Clearly, I haven't seen enough! For the sake of interest, the ID numbers on my 2-10 and 3-10 both start with A1 ... . My later 10-10 is A11.

 

[northwest saws]

Someone ran it without the air filter for a bit. Exhaust side of piston looks good but I have yet to examine the intake side. Choke is on the right and oiler is on the left.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

 

[Woodslasher]

After roughly two weeks of enforced inaction, I was finally able to wrench on some Macs again. I had a bear of a time re-assembling the carb on 5-10, first the staples holding the diaphragms together were in too far so I had to remove them, then I had to try and re-assemble the primer by memory. That didn't work, so I had to consult the ipl. It's all back together now and I installed a new Buna-N line and grommet, I'm very pleased with how it fits. Next I pulled the wrap off of my 10-10 which was down there to get its badly rocked chain ground and I swapped it over to the 5-10. I put the original half wrap back on the 10-10 as the 5-10's was narrower looking. I'll split up my posts to accommodate the pics.

 

[Woodslasher]

Next up was swapping a new, sparkly clean tank from a parts saw to my 1-42, along with a sweet chrome full wrap. It was pretty straightforward and I'm hoping it's all the saw needs to become a runner. I'm thinking the inner recoil mount/plate thingy will get pulled from the parts saw along with the lower handle brace and put on my ported 1-43.

 

[heimannm]

Do you see that nylon line running through the back side of your fuel tank Dan? That it the fuel tank vent so that saw will utilize a non-vented fuel cap. Later saws did not have the additional vent line and so required the fuel cap with the duck bill valve and the sintered metal vent.

Mark

 

[emf123]

Do you see that nylon line running through the back side of your fuel tank Dan? That it the fuel tank vent so that saw will utilize a non-vented fuel cap. Later saws did not have the additional vent line and so required the fuel cap with the duck bill valve and the sintered metal vent.

Mark

Where does that vent line come out at? It's really long, I've never noticed that before.

 

[heimannm]

The line (Item 29) vents in the vicinity of the bar pad, there is a fitting the IPL identified as Item 31 - "Orifice Assembly" that screw in from the outside of the bar pad. On later models with the vented cap the hole in the bar pad was fit with a plug before the casting was changed to eliminate the hole altogether.

Mark

 

[rarefish383]

Mmmhhh? Pop up piston?

Well, I got up the next morning and following the old carpenters advice, I measured twice. Both rods are the same. I did have the piston in backwards and flipped it around. I stuck the assembly in the cylinder, and holding down on the bearings with my thumb and forefinger I spun it around. Right at TDC there was a thump that pushed the small bearing out of the journal. Took it back apart and could see nothing out of order in the cylinder. Put the piston back in and spun it around some more, the thump was still there, but it didn't lift the bearing out of the journal. Put the case back together with no sealer and just finger tight. It spun around fine. Took it apart and put the sealer on it and torqued it down. Every thing is spinning over smooth as silk.

I need to get oil and gas tank gaskets. Should I use a thin layer of sealer on them, figured I'd just do it? I used an ice pick to pump the oil pump and it seems OK. Do they make rebuild kits for the pumps? If not, do they still make new ones? All the parts are clean, so just need those few parts to put it back together. Plus, I need to find the crank key, last I saw it, it was bouncing under a book case in the corner.

I've heard guys say a 7-10 will pull a 28" bar, and started to look for one. But, I've got so many saws in that range, I don't see beating on it. Think I'll look for a 20-24".

 

[fossil]

The oil tanks can be difficult to seal up. Poge uses a rubber infused cork gasket which works well.

I would get the oiler working first and get it adjusted right before you put sealer on the oil tank cover.

@heimannm knows those oilers better than most. Does the manual oiler work?

 

[heimannm]

Don't use any sealer on the oil tank gasket, you often need to go back in to adjust the automatic oil pump so any sealer highly complicates the task. eBay seller gotfishon makes a nice reproduction oil tank gasket from relatively thick material that seals well with just the screw as long as the mating surfaces are clean and smooth.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/McCULLOCH-...821196&hash=item26383db69b:g:lMAAAOSwZJRei5ps
You can find NOS pumps on eBay from time to time but most of the time all that is needed is to replace the gasket (hard rubber seal) between the tank and the automatic pump and make sure the clip is in place. Some of the early saws had three screws that secured the automatic oil pump in place, those used a thinner gasket from more conventional gasket material. If you take the manual pump off the top of the oil tank do not lose the small disk (some are phenolic, some are aluminum) that make one check valve. There is a fairly comprehensive thread on the 10 Series oiler to help you check things out before you put it all back together.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/mcculloch-10-series-oiler.249620/
Mark

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The oil tanks can be difficult to seal up. Poge uses a rubber infused cork gasket which works well.

That would be for the fuel tank gasket. The viton gaskets from Sawzilla also come highly recommended if one isn't inclined to make their own.

If a sealer must be used for the oil tank due to uneven mating surfaces, Dirko is about as forgiving as it gets for ease of removal and re-application. Motoseal would probably be next. As Mark says, a gasket is all that should be necessary.

 

[fossil]

That would be for the fuel tank gasket.

I thought you were using Fel Pro 3018 for the oil tank gasket. Must have been someone else.

 

[xl130]

Hello Mac gurus. I have a question...
I have been having a heck of a time getting a 1-72 to run. I put a new set of diaphragms into it awhile back and replaced the needle and seat. Pit back in and it had not been cooperative.
It will run off of a shot of gas into the carb but will not pull fuel from the tank or a bottle.

I just opened it again to take another peek. I realized I was lazy first time through and did not put a new gasket in on the pump portion(top....) I think the wrong gasket may have been put in at one point or another prior to me obtaining the saw.

I have a RK88HL kit. Is that the correct kit for a HL19ET?
Here is a couple pictures....the new one is on the left The old one on the right. Which one is correct? I hardly ever work on these older carbs...,

Thanks for any help or advice!

 

[heimannm]

The 1-72 utilizes a large felt wick/filter but the fuel must make its way through a relatively small passage was from the filter to the fitting for the fuel line to the carburetor. Once you are sure the carburetor is fit with all the correct gaskets and diaphragms also verify that fuel can actually pass from the tank to the carburetor.

Mark