McCulloch Chain Saws

Wesspur
Rugged made
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I bought a cheap junk what was advertised as a 210A. As I posted here before this mainly as a parts saw for my project CP70 which was missing a RH clutch. So this saw arrived today and it definitely needs a soaking bath before even thinking about starting it. But I wanted to share some photos. For example, it does have the clutch (key and woodruff) I am looking for, which is great news as I wasn't sure about it when buying this online. It also has the oldschool style recoil starter that small wheel at the rope, which I am chuffed to see in person. And it has a strange thing that looks like a decomp coming from the kill switch. I've never seen that before and I didn't think 2-10s needed a decomp, but I am learning that with Mcculloch, you never know...

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Yokosukadweller said:
I bought a cheap junk what was advertised as a 210A. As I posted here before this mainly as a parts saw for my project CP70 which was missing a RH clutch. So this saw arrived today and it definitely needs a soaking bath before even thinking about starting it. But I wanted to share some photos. For example, it does have the clutch (key and woodruff) I am looking for, which is great news as I wasn't sure about it when buying this online. It also has the oldschool style recoil starter that small wheel at the rope, which I am chuffed to see in person. And it has a strange thing that looks like a decomp coming from the kill switch. I've never seen that before and I didn't think 2-10s needed a decomp, but I am learning that with Mcculloch, you never know...

View attachment 906305View attachment 906306View attachment 906307
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Wicked score on the starter cover
 
Hi guys, I've got a question about a Mac 10 hard nose bar (P/N 89503 UL), can I run .375" pitch chain on it?
I've noticed that its somewhat narrower than my Speed-Mac bar, and I recall reading that there was at some time .35(?)" Mac chain, so just checking. The .375" chain seems to go around the nose fine. Besides the part number, it just has 050 guage stamped on the tail.

I did find a 1987 IPL showing different chains for the two bars (both 20").

table.PNG
 
Marvin Booysen said:
Hi guys, I've got a question about a Mac 10 hard nose bar (P/N 89503 UL), can I run .375" pitch chain on it?
I've noticed that its somewhat narrower than my Speed-Mac bar, and I recall reading that there was at some time .35(?)" Mac chain, so just checking. The .375" chain seems to go around the nose fine. Besides the part number, it just has 050 guage stamped on the tail.

I did find a 1987 IPL showing different chains for the two bars (both 20").

View attachment 906401
Click to expand...

You can run whatever you like on a hard nose as long as it's the same gauge. That's the beauty of a hard nose
 
vinnywv said:
Yea nice score....i bet itll run.
Click to expand...
That's the thing - I opened up to flywheel and removed a lot of caked sawdust around the engine fins and also at the recoil cover. Then open carb and a teaspoon of fuel mix into it...and lo and behold, she started up readily at second pull.

Amazing saws really...from a different era when things were made to be repaired, and not like today where many things are either impossible to repair at home, or are defect by 'planned obsolescence'.

Now @SEAM who lives in the neighbouring prefecture (state) is helping me out with a spare clutch so I don't have to cannibalise this one here.

It means this is now another project saw instead of a parts saw. I now own 4 McCullochs, I can see where this is going...
 
Yokosukadweller said:
That's the thing - I opened up to flywheel and removed a lot of caked sawdust around the engine fins and also at the recoil cover. Then open carb and a teaspoon of fuel mix into it...and lo and behold, she started up readily at second pull.

Amazing saws really...from a different era when things were made to be repaired, and not like today where many things are either impossible to repair at home, or are defect by 'planned obsolescence'.

Now @SEAM who lives in the neighbouring prefecture (state) is helping me out with a spare clutch so I don't have to cannibalise this one here.

It means this is now another project saw instead of a parts saw. I now own 4 McCullochs, I can see where this is going...
Click to expand...

Great news now your hooked good and proper:)
 
Yokosukadweller said:
... didn't think 2-10s needed a decomp, but I am learning that with Mcculloch, you never know...
Click to expand...
My RHS 2-10A has the decomp like that, in fact pretty much every one I have seen does. I always use the decomp just to help the starter. The throttle lock I find better than the 10-10 series saws without the decomp too.
 
matt_lamb_160 said:
My RHS 2-10A has the decomp like that, in fact pretty much every one I have seen does. I always use the decomp just to help the starter. The throttle lock I find better than the 10-10 series saws without the decomp too.
Click to expand...
Didn't know it, first time for me to see this kind of decomp. I like it, but it currently doesn't look like its working, decades of sawdust I suspect. Will find out when I get the time to clean her up.
 
Got the day off work and starting to take the 2-10A apart for cleaning. Measured the bore and its 4.5cm ish, which jives with 55cc being 1.75" dia. Engine seems as clean on the inside as its dirty on the outside.
Chain oil in the oiler was extremely sticky and stringy, must've been in there for ages and fermented into something unknown.
Some screws missing - one from the muffler, see if I can find something that works.

This is only the second saw I am disassembling. Taking photos of all nuts and bolts to try to sort of map out the right way to put it back together when the time comes. Hope I can remember...

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Yokosukadweller said:
This is only the second saw I am disassembling. Taking photos of all nuts and bolts to try to sort of map out the right way to put it back together when the time comes. Hope I can remember...
Click to expand...
I use a cardboard box (pizza boxes are ideal) and draw a rough shape on it of each piece I'm taking off as I go. I make holes around each shape and push the bolts in to match where they are on the saw.
Works for me. One day I'll post a photo.
 
Well guys,I found this 450 on Feebay for a halfway decent price,so I bought it.The seller said he couldn't get it to run.I don't think he knew anything about the primer.It's just as well because there was no fuel filter in the tank.I put a new fuel filter in it,let it set with fuel in it for a few minutes,gave it a prime & pulled it over & it was running.It died right away ,so I checked the needle settings (I should make it a habit to do that right away,but always forget in the excitement).The hi needle was screwed in all the way,so I turned it out to 1 1/2 turns out & set the lo needle the same.I couldn't get the saw to hold a tune,so it's either got a dirty carb,or the crank seals need to be replaced.I tried starting the saw later & now it has no spark.I think the condenser crapped out.I've read that ignition chips don't hold up well in the large frame saws.I do have a few good condensers left from other Mac saws that I can put in to see if I can get spark back on it.
 

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