McCulloch Chain Saws

[vinnywv]

A Mac version of this. View attachment 1076903

How good do those 3d scanners work I wonder.

Also to go on this... View attachment 1076911View attachment 1076908
I have the stihl 1 floating around but its just not the same. I'd be happy with a husky but me n stihl are not friends lol.

Vinny sent me a 610 on a random Christmas decoration that's perfect for my smaller scale truck. I found yesterday while shifting. My boy pushed the button on the thing a million times.

Hey griswold!!! Lol

 

[bob kern]

A Mac version of this. View attachment 1076903

How good do those 3d scanners work I wonder.

Also to go on this... View attachment 1076911View attachment 1076908
I have the stihl 1 floating around but its just not the same. I'd be happy with a husky but me n stihl are not friends lol.

Vinny sent me a 610 on a random Christmas decoration that's perfect for my smaller scale truck. I found yesterday while shifting. My boy pushed the button on the thing a million times.

My daughter is big into beading right now and is going to attempt a Mac saw key chain.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Hey griswold!!! Lol

Awww man. No joke a million times lol

 

[j-jock]

j-jock - yes, 0.030" overize. The steel or cast iron sleeves in the saws would easily accomodate the 0.030 overize pistons. I am told on the kart engines that some were bored 0.100" oversize or even a bit more. The sleeves start to get pretty thin at that point. McCulloch emphasized their ability to bore oversize and keep the saws running...until chrome plating took over.

View attachment 1076783

Mark

Thanks, Mark. I love learning about that kind of stuff. My reaction to the amount of overbore, comes from my own experience of boring out a Ford 428 (FE) to .100 over, and even though we had checked the amount of meat in the bore, had the cylinder crack and fail because of flexing.
I know there is more meat in an aircooled cylinder, so I guess I was asking what the overbore limit is. I am guessing that for competition saws, guys are boring saw cylinders, just like we bore out engines, and we don't hear about it when they fail.

I normally use a top plate angle of 25° for chisel and 30° for semi chisel. Some promote using a 10° "up" angle on the chisel chain and some chain vises on grinders are adjustable so you can achieve that affect. I tend to keep the file/vise horizontal for both chisel and semi chisel chain.

You can adjust the angles on your chains according to your conditions and needs. A shallower angle (20° vs 25°) would produce an edge that does not cut quite as fast but would hold up longer, etc. etc. I know some of the McCulloch supplied file plates had 35° and 40° angles on them for some of their semi chisel chains. I also have some of the flat type file guides with 22° and 30° lines scribed.

View attachment 1076788

View attachment 1076789


Remember that anything you do to make it cut faster will ultimately result in the chain dulling faster as well.

Check the drive sprocket and the oiler on the PM55, sounds like something is amiss there Ed.

Mark

I use chisel chain, and have been filing 35 degrees, with a slight up angle. After a couple of hand filings, I use a guide to keep the chain where I want it. Most of my experience is with hemlock, fir, maple, and alder, and I always had nice chips.
One faller friend, used to hand file his chisel chain with an approximate 15 degree up angle, but he didn't screw around with dull chains. The second he didn't feel the chain was cutting right, he would change it. His theory was, that even though he might change the chain one extra time during the day, he was job of falling the trees went easier, and he got more done. He was a bull bucker for most of his career, so someone thought he was doing it right.
I also ran my own twin powerhead Alaska Mill, and found that for cutting maple, I got good results with a 5 degree angle on the chain.

 

[edju1958]

I normally use a top plate angle of 25° for chisel and 30° for semi chisel. Some promote using a 10° "up" angle on the chisel chain and some chain vises on grinders are adjustable so you can achieve that affect. I tend to keep the file/vise horizontal for both chisel and semi chisel chain.

You can adjust the angles on your chains according to your conditions and needs. A shallower angle (20° vs 25°) would produce an edge that does not cut quite as fast but would hold up longer, etc. etc. I know some of the McCulloch supplied file plates had 35° and 40° angles on them for some of their semi chisel chains. I also have some of the flat type file guides with 22° and 30° lines scribed.

View attachment 1076788

View attachment 1076789


Remember that anything you do to make it cut faster will ultimately result in the chain dulling faster as well.

Check the drive sprocket and the oiler on the PM55, sounds like something is amiss there Ed.

Mark

I pulled the PM55 apart today & all seemed to be good,although it had a spur sprocket on the clutch drum that was in good shape,I pulled it off to grease the bearing & opted to put a rim drive on in it's place.I fired up the saw & the chain moved freely.My son tends to fofget to use the manual oiler.He's to spoiled by the automatic only features of the Stihl & Husky.The bar on the saw (chain too) is pretty much brand new,only used last yr.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Finally a long wanted saw is heading my way thanks to Ruamati another mac guy from down here for spotting it
Was the guys grandfather's saw but the starter screws kept falling otherwise runs well and carves through wood he says. So hopefully it's a good one.

I've got 700s and 7-10s galore but the SP or even CP has been alluding me.

The cool thing for me is I got the saws story and they are chuffed it's going to a good home and not the dump

 

[vinnywv]

Youll like it. Congratulations. Great price too.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Youll like it. Congratulations. Great price too.

Thanks Vinny . Yeah he put a make an offer thing on the auction so thought bugger it I'll just offer him a decent but fair price n see what happens

 

[heimannm]

The SP70 is a bit of an underrated saw in my opinion. PM700's will fetch a high price on eBay but the SP70's often slip under the radar. From a recent eBay sale:

Pro Mac 700

$331

$36

$367

for parts or not working, motor does not turn, possible bent connector rod, piston loose…

I need to dig out 2 or 3 from the attic over my garage and offer them up as is, scored pistons, bad mufflers, missing clutch covers, should still be $200 saws don't you think???????

Mark

 

[Squareground3691]

The SP70 is a bit of an underrated saw in my opinion. PM700's will fetch a high price on eBay but the SP70's often slip under the radar. From a recent eBay sale:

Pro Mac 700

$331

$36

$367

for parts or not working, motor does not turn, possible bent connector rod, piston loose…

I need to dig out 2 or 3 from the attic over my garage and offer them up as is, scored pistons, bad mufflers, missing clutch covers, should still be $200 saws don't you think???????

Mark

Any noticeable performance difference ?

 

[heimannm]

I ran my SP70 bone stock (freshly rebuilt with a NOS piston and cylinder and NOS reed muffler) against AWOL and his slightly modified 7-10 a few years ago...the SP70 with the reed muffler was so quiet I didn't think it was working all that well but it was clearly faster than the 7-10 and a muffler modded 372 Husqvarna in a decent sized log that day.

I also ran my 7-10 (new piston rings, that's all) against a very nice PM700 at another event and it wasn't really close...the 7-10 was clearly stronger and faster than the PM700. The guy running the PM700 was a former McCulloch dealer and noted that the 7-10 was always a better saw than the PM700 version.

The PM700 saws were built in greater number and there are still more of them out there running and working so I believe they just have better publicity. Besides, who wants an old points ignition saw when you can have a PM700 with electronic ignition and the big, heavy aluminum clutch cover that extends over the muffler?

Mark

 

[Squareground3691]

I ran my SP70 bone stock (freshly rebuilt with a NOS piston and cylinder and NOS reed muffler) against AWOL and his slightly modified 7-10 a few years ago...the SP70 with the reed muffler was so quiet I didn't think it was working all that well but it was clearly faster than the 7-10 and a muffler modded 372 Husqvarna in a decent sized log that day.

I also ran my 7-10 (new piston rings, that's all) against a very nice PM700 at another event and it wasn't really close...the 7-10 was clearly stronger and faster than the PM700. The guy running the PM700 was a former McCulloch dealer and noted that the 7-10 was always a better saw than the PM700 version.

The PM700 saws were built in greater number and there are still more of them out there running and working so I believe they just have better publicity. Besides, who wants an old points ignition saw when you can have a PM700 with electronic ignition and the big, heavy aluminum clutch cover that extends over the muffler?

Mark

Thanks Mark , I do enjoy the 7-10 it’s got some grunt , and sounds even better,, I did see a SP70 awhile ago on Fee bay was in very good condition, but there going way up on the bidding nowadays,

 

[heimannm]

I can still feel and hear the power of the 7-10 hours after I shut it down...

Mark

 

[edju1958]

Congratulations Jethro on your newest acquisition! The SP/CP70 have alluded me as well.I've seen them pop up on Feebay from time to time,but they always go for way more than I'm willing to shell out.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

I ran my SP70 bone stock (freshly rebuilt with a NOS piston and cylinder and NOS reed muffler) against AWOL and his slightly modified 7-10 a few years ago...the SP70 with the reed muffler was so quiet I didn't think it was working all that well but it was clearly faster than the 7-10 and a muffler modded 372 Husqvarna in a decent sized log that day.

I also ran my 7-10 (new piston rings, that's all) against a very nice PM700 at another event and it wasn't really close...the 7-10 was clearly stronger and faster than the PM700. The guy running the PM700 was a former McCulloch dealer and noted that the 7-10 was always a better saw than the PM700 version.

The PM700 saws were built in greater number and there are still more of them out there running and working so I believe they just have better publicity. Besides, who wants an old points ignition saw when you can have a PM700 with electronic ignition and the big, heavy aluminum clutch cover that extends over the muffler?

Mark

So you reckon the SP has a little something over the 7-10? This I'm really curious about and I wonder what it is.

No idea what's going to show up yet was only 1 picture but worth thr gamble. I'm sure I'll be able to cobble it into a runner. Even if I have to do some sacrilege with re threading to metric.
As long as the cylinder is good. I have a piston. A random white box presumably LRB piston but looks OK

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

So you reckon the SP has a little something over the 7-10?

Now really, guys.... really?

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Now really, guys.... really?

Yeah lets not start that insanity again!

 

[edju1958]

My 450 has bad crank seals & I'm sure the carb can most likely use a rebuild too.I'm pretty sure I have a flat back carb kit that I got from Bob a couple yrs.back,but after that's gone where do I get another flat back kit from?

 

[vinnywv]

The SP70 is a bit of an underrated saw in my opinion. PM700's will fetch a high price on eBay but the SP70's often slip under the radar. From a recent eBay sale:

Pro Mac 700

$331

$36

$367

for parts or not working, motor does not turn, possible bent connector rod, piston loose…

I need to dig out 2 or 3 from the attic over my garage and offer them up as is, scored pistons, bad mufflers, missing clutch covers, should still be $200 saws don't you think???????

Mark

I have a sp70 with a fresh engine from ol bob a few yrs ago. Its got less that 20 hrs on it. It runs very well. It will definately out run my pm700. No question at all.

 

[vinnywv]

My 450 has bad crank seals & I'm sure the carb can most likely use a rebuild too.I'm pretty sure I have a flat back carb kit that I got from Bob a couple yrs.back,but after that's gone where do I get another flat back kit from?

Might try sugar creek supply.