McCulloch Chain Saws

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piglosi - does that mean you added the spring? If so, that would be good information to have tucked away somewhere.

Vinny - keep us updated on the ongoing performance of the sleeved 82 cc saw(s). Somebody expressed a concern about the tool steel rings in a steel liner, but I know that more that a few of the big, older saws ran thin tool steel rings in a steel or cast iron sleeve. Some of the thick ring sets had a chrome plated top ring and plane cast bottom ring.

Mark
 
No problem. So far no issue for me with the sleeve or any 82cc saw.

I did buck up a 24 inch log tonight with the sp125. Steel bore. Running a 30 inch bar and 3/8 chain. What a monster. So easy to use. It took no time to cut that log up. The daughter did not make it out with me so no action shots.

And thankyou. Glad to be back to sawing.
 
Not all 125 had chrome bores. The cp125 was steel, the early sp125 was steel, then they changed to chrome. The last 125s were chrome, sp125c.

The 797 had the same muffler as the cp125. Directional round.

Well, im returning to saws. That ol truck had me all year. Ive spent the last hr reading 15 pages of the forum. Looks like some new saws for some. Today i started cutting again. Ran 2 tanks thru the sp81. 28" bar. What a nice saw. Gonna clean it off and grab an 850. Also 28" bar. Im cutting lots of red oak this year. Some is rather large. I ended up with a new wood splitter to. I had a tractor supply huskee splitter for 20 years. Its been in a photo or 2 ive posted. I sold the ol gal and upgraded to a wolf ridge. Its quite different to run but sure saves the back. I like it. It is faster and just as strong. Smashed the heck out of my pinky finger. But all is well. 4 more days of cutting will get me thru just fine. Im planning on getting a 123cc saw out this evening to play a bit. Peehaps my daughter can take a photo or 2. Enjoy your day fellas
Like Mark...I am watching and waiting to see how the sleeved 82cc saws hold up Vinny.
 
piglosi - does that mean you added the spring? If so, that would be good information to have tucked away somewhere.

Vinny - keep us updated on the ongoing performance of the sleeved 82 cc saw(s). Somebody expressed a concern about the tool steel rings in a steel liner, but I know that more that a few of the big, older saws ran thin tool steel rings in a steel or cast iron sleeve. Some of the thick ring sets had a chrome plated top ring and plane cast bottom ring.

Mark
Yes I added spring 85891 to the springless SDC 3 carb and it work fine
piglosi - does that mean you added the spring? If so, that would be good information to have tucked away somewhere.

Vinny - keep us updated on the ongoing performance of the sleeved 82 cc saw(s). Somebody expressed a concern about the tool steel rings in a steel liner, but I know that more that a few of the big, older saws ran thin tool steel rings in a steel or cast iron sleeve. Some of the thick ring sets had a chrome plated top ring and plane cast bottom ring.
piglosi - does that mean you added the spring? If so, that would be good information to have tucked away somewhere.

Vinny - keep us updated on the ongoing performance of the sleeved 82 cc saw(s). Somebody expressed a concern about the tool steel rings in a steel liner, but I know that more that a few of the big, older saws ran thin tool steel rings in a steel or cast iron sleeve. Some of the thick ring sets had a chrome plated top ring and plane cast bottom ring.

Mark
Yes spring 85891 works on the SDC3 or SDC without a throttle return spring. I made sure the throttle shaft was retained with clip and spring installed on top in same place as the “sprinted” SDC carbs
 
piglosi - does that mean you added the spring? If so, that would be good information to have tucked away somewhere.

Vinny - keep us updated on the ongoing performance of the sleeved 82 cc saw(s). Somebody expressed a concern about the tool steel rings in a steel liner, but I know that more that a few of the big, older saws ran thin tool steel rings in a steel or cast iron sleeve. Some of the thick ring sets had a chrome plated top ring and plane cast bottom ring.

Mark
Yes I added the spring to the springless SDC carb. There is a clip for the throttle shaft
piglosi - does that mean you added the spring? If so, that would be good information to have tucked away somewhere.

Vinny - keep us updated on the ongoing performance of the sleeved 82 cc saw(s). Somebody expressed a concern about the tool steel rings in a steel liner, but I know that more that a few of the big, older saws ran thin tool steel rings in a steel or cast iron sleeve. Some of the thick ring sets had a chrome plated top ring and plane cast bottom ring.
 
Auto - the clutch covers will interchange, but some of the early models like the 1-50 did not have the bar adjuster in the clutch cover. Instead, there was a screw with an oversize head in the bar pad that engaged a slot milled in the bar. You can eliminate that screw (in the bar pad) and use the adjuster in the clutch cover provided your bar is drilled/milled for both.

This is the fuel tank with bar pad from a D-30, you can see the bar adjust screw with the oversize head just below the bar studs. The clutch cover on that was would not have the bar adjust screw and bar nut incorporated in it.

DSC02648.JPG

As you can see below, no bar adjust screw in this clutch cover.

DSC02680.JPG

This clutch cover had the bar adjust screw incorporated as you can see just below the bar studs.

DSC05785.JPG

Mark
 
Finished up today. All my firewood is split and stacked. The new splitrer is a major back saver. Me and the wife split up in 2.5 days what normally takes us 5 days. I was impressed with it. Today i cut up using a pm850. 28 bar. Ran great. This one is not a sleeved engine. Its a nikosil engine i got from iowa. Before sleeving. Sorry. Theres only so much time and so many saws.....it is burning some bar oil though. Havta look into that.
 
Auto - the clutch covers will interchange, but some of the early models like the 1-50 did not have the bar adjuster in the clutch cover. Instead, there was a screw with an oversize head in the bar pad that engaged a slot milled in the bar. You can eliminate that screw (in the bar pad) and use the adjuster in the clutch cover provided your bar is drilled/milled for both.

This is the fuel tank with bar pad from a D-30, you can see the bar adjust screw with the oversize head just below the bar studs. The clutch cover on that was would not have the bar adjust screw and bar nut incorporated in it.

View attachment 1122623

As you can see below, no bar adjust screw in this clutch cover.

View attachment 1122625

This clutch cover had the bar adjust screw incorporated as you can see just below the bar studs.

View attachment 1122627

Mark
is the saw with the Goose on it a d-30? I love that shape and air filter cover, but not crazy about that (is it an oiler button?) sticking out the top 😂

how about wrap around bars, are they all pretty much the same?
 
The D-30 and D-36 are "center pull" starters. Rather an odd arrangement and one that did not prove to be very well accepted. There is no oiler button as these two models and early 1-40 and 1-50 saws utilized the Lubri-Mac system that directed crankcase residue to the bar pad to oil the bar and chain. You were supposed to run a 10:1 mix ratio in those models. The button is the choke.

DSC02678.JPG

The full wrap handlebars are universal on the front tank saws and were found on many D-30/36, most of the 1-5X saws, and the Super 250.

$(KGrHqZ,!q!E8WZNZl90BPV!5J(SLQ~~60_58.jpg

McCulloch Super 250's 1.JPG

Mark
 

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