McCulloch Chain Saws

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The 1-46 has good comp but no spark and the PM10-10 will run on prime but not pulling fuel. Fuel lines feel pretty hard so I'm not terribly surprised. The broken handle is kind of a bummer to me as I don't see many of these around here, so unless a new tank/handle comes around it's probably going to be sold as parts or torn down and stored as parts. The clutch and sprocket look really nice on it still and the rest of the saw is pretty clean, kinda too bad it broke in the first place. I'm going to swap in a known good coil onto the 1-46 and see what happens.
 
Before pulling the flywheel to inspect:
If you have access to a Ohmmeter you can disconnect the wire coming from under the flywheel and read the points opening and closing. I prefer a analog ohmmeter (non-digital) for such. The magneto coils very seldom go bad on them old Macs. You can also get a reading on the condenser when the points are open.
As for the parts keep a eye open for a parts saw as their are several that used the same broken parts you mention, such as the 1-43, 1-50, and maybe the 250.
Broken handle is a bummer.
 
Before pulling the flywheel to inspect:
If you have access to a Ohmmeter you can disconnect the wire coming from under the flywheel and read the points opening and closing. I prefer a analog ohmmeter (non-digital) for such. The magneto coils very seldom go bad on them old Macs. You can also get a reading on the condenser when the points are open.
As for the parts keep a eye open for a parts saw as their are several that used the same broken parts you mention, such as the 1-43, 1-50, and maybe the 250.
Broken handle is a bummer.
Yeah I plan on checking it over and cleaning it. I already have a parts saw that has a known good coil worst case scenario. Broken handle sucks but it was a good deal for the saws, cost me a total of 65 for both, with the price of shipping these days they are 100% worth it as parts saws if I don't fix them.
 
I swear this is the last saw for a while lol. (Sometimes they just all come at once) I found a PM 570 locally and it had low comp (90 psi at best) so I offered the folks a fair price and they declined. Fast forward and they contact me letting me know I can have it for my price. I take it home and check the cylinder which looked fine but just didn't pull more than barely enough to consider it 'startable'. So I noticed that it had a decomp and upon inspecting, the decomp was stuck open hence the low comp. Needless to say it now is pulling about 140-145psi which is much better considering that I thought it was a burnt saw. Will go through this one soon as I was hoping to use it for a bit around the farm given that it has AV and isn't too terribly heavy. IMG_5764.jpg
 
I swear this is the last saw for a while lol. (Sometimes they just all come at once) I found a PM 570 locally and it had low comp (90 psi at best) so I offered the folks a fair price and they declined. Fast forward and they contact me letting me know I can have it for my price. I take it home and check the cylinder which looked fine but just didn't pull more than barely enough to consider it 'startable'. So I noticed that it had a decomp and upon inspecting, the decomp was stuck open hence the low comp. Needless to say it now is pulling about 140-145psi which is much better considering that I thought it was a burnt saw. Will go through this one soon as I was hoping to use it for a bit around the farm given that it has AV and isn't too terribly heavy. View attachment 1162173
More rare than some realize. An oddity for sure. Congrats!
 
I swear this is the last saw for a while lol. (Sometimes they just all come at once) I found a PM 570 locally and it had low comp (90 psi at best) so I offered the folks a fair price and they declined. Fast forward and they contact me letting me know I can have it for my price. I take it home and check the cylinder which looked fine but just didn't pull more than barely enough to consider it 'startable'. So I noticed that it had a decomp and upon inspecting, the decomp was stuck open hence the low comp. Needless to say it now is pulling about 140-145psi which is much better considering that I thought it was a burnt saw. Will go through this one soon as I was hoping to use it for a bit around the farm given that it has AV and isn't too terribly heavy. View attachment 1162173
Yeah kinda like I'm never drinking again, I swear, till next weekend 🤣😂🤮🤮
 
Looking for advice. I know I need to mess with things a little more but I can't be out in the shop to play today so I thought I'd ask here. I picked up a 610 and got it running and idling good but when I try to throttle it up it lugs and dies. First I checked the L and H needles and set them to a starting point (each out about 1 & 1/4 turns). Started and idles, played with the high jet but same thing. Thought it needs a new carb kit and I had another freshly rebuilt HDB with a new kit that was removed from another 610 that I parted out which has a messed up throttle spring. I removed that kit and rebuilt the other carb. Now it runs, idles and I can throttle up about 3/4 of the way but when I try to open it up fully it starts to die unless I back off the throttle. I have another new kit but didn't want to take the time to swap things out again before I ask you guys if I'm missing something? because I know the kit I put in it from the messed up carb was new. Do these symptoms tell anyone what else I should look at? My thought is the possibility of a bad fuel filter or an obstruction in the impulse port. I can replace the filter easy enough but my question is about the impulse line and how can I make sure it's clean? Should I spray carb cleaner through it or can that mess up things like seals or bearings in the crank case? Anything else I may have overlooked? Thank you guys (or girls - I try not to assume only men work on chainsaws 😂).
 
Just released a new (Tried and tested) kit for the early flatback also known as a Mac-5 which is different than the typical.

These are used on the D30, D36, 1-40, 1-50, 1-60, 640, saws

https://www.oldsawshop.com/McCulloch-Early-Walbro-Flatback-Carburetor-kit-p636213381

Bryan Gray did a nice video on prototype installation and testing:

The port he noticed missing has been added even thought it ran just fine without on the prototype he tested.

Not a common carb, but I'll be keeping them on the shelf and ready to ship if the need arises
 

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Looking for advice. I know I need to mess with things a little more but I can't be out in the shop to play today so I thought I'd ask here. I picked up a 610 and got it running and idling good but when I try to throttle it up it lugs and dies. First I checked the L and H needles and set them to a starting point (each out about 1 & 1/4 turns). Started and idles, played with the high jet but same thing. Thought it needs a new carb kit and I had another freshly rebuilt HDB with a new kit that was removed from another 610 that I parted out which has a messed up throttle spring. I removed that kit and rebuilt the other carb. Now it runs, idles and I can throttle up about 3/4 of the way but when I try to open it up fully it starts to die unless I back off the throttle. I have another new kit but didn't want to take the time to swap things out again before I ask you guys if I'm missing something? because I know the kit I put in it from the messed up carb was new. Do these symptoms tell anyone what else I should look at? My thought is the possibility of a bad fuel filter or an obstruction in the impulse port. I can replace the filter easy enough but my question is about the impulse line and how can I make sure it's clean? Should I spray carb cleaner through it or can that mess up things like seals or bearings in the crank case? Anything else I may have overlooked? Thank you guys (or girls - I try not to assume only men work on chainsaws 😂).
Sounds like the high speed check valve.
 
If you haven't already removed the flywheel to clean the points, I would recommend that as a good starting place on the 1-46.

Mark
And test the condenser while you are in there. I have only ever had one dodgy one on a 550, but they are easy to test and a potential pain if you don't.

The only time I have ever had zero spark on a front tank McCulloch, the flywheel rubbed a hole in the installation of the wire to the condenser due to incorrect installation. They are usually very reliable spark wise. In saying so, you can certainly tell the difference with new points.
 
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