McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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Another saved from the scrap bin
A fellow stopped in yesterday with a Jenn Feng 50cc McCulloch that needed starter work.
With the starter fixed I asked him to start the saw...low and behold it was running backwards? Apparently it fired on the up stroke (as it should) but kicked it backwards and it kept going albeit somewhat lethargic. He switched it off, I suggested he try it again and it was running in the proper direction.
Never say never...
Mark
With the starter fixed I asked him to start the saw...low and behold it was running backwards? Apparently it fired on the up stroke (as it should) but kicked it backwards and it kept going albeit somewhat lethargic. He switched it off, I suggested he try it again and it was running in the proper direction.
Never say never...
Mark
That happened to me occasionally with a shindaiwa 488
Those saws are for cutting from the other side of the tree. Lol
InvictusRisen
ArboristSite Lurker
I've seen that happen on 2 stroke dirt bikes. I swear I saw a video of a guy on a starting line shoot off backwards when the gate drops, but now I can't find the video
Rotax Steve
ArboristSite Lurker
Would that cup be the same as a 250 (24104A)? I could use one of those.
fechtichmac
ArboristSite Operative
Partner 5500 does it also from time to time.
Fuel filters - do we just use something generic? 
Finished this yesterday. Had to completely go thru the greaseball. Covers are little rough but it's solid. Came to me with a 2:1 gearset but I found in my stash a complete 3:1 set with the proper oil pump.
Rotax - Yes, the 250 oiler cup and the 33/35/39 primer cup are the same, 24104.
If Jeff doesn't get back to you check with me, I have a few of his replacement cups as well as a few of the OEM 23104 cups.
Mark
If Jeff doesn't get back to you check with me, I have a few of his replacement cups as well as a few of the OEM 23104 cups.
Mark
My original primer cup looks like 67116. The new cup I installed looks like 24104. I haven't checked rthe oiler cup - the oiler is working fine - but may be on the way out.
Evening folks. FYI I ran across a couple 3516 ish type saws this evening that I probably won't try to get going. If anyone is looking for a part/ parts saw, let me know. Will put on market place later.
Had the 3406 Cat I’m my Western Star run backwards when I was a little late on the clutch pulling a belly dump in soft groundI've seen that happen on 2 stroke dirt bikes. I swear I saw a video of a guy on a starting line shoot off backwards when the gate drops, but now I can't find the video
I'm tracking down an air leak on my sp125. It always idled fast until it warmed up and then it ran fine but the fast idle concerned me. P&C show no damage or wear. Compression is very strong. I removed the tank as I planned to replace the intake boot anyway - it was ok. I've eliminated the decomp valve, intake gaskets, spark plug, clutch side crank seal, and all areas around the oil pump housing. I haven't pulled the flywheel yet. I did install new seals when I built the saw. When pressure is applied, I hear air around the oil tank area. Do I need to remove the oil pump and seal off the passage? Any other areas of concern that are unique to this saw?
Just thought - I will loosen the oil cap to see if air is leaking into the oil tank. No bubbles.
Just thought - I will loosen the oil cap to see if air is leaking into the oil tank. No bubbles.
They will potentially leak through the pulse pump if it is worn. I don't think that is a big concern since when the saw is running the pulse is going "both ways". If you end up with oil leaking into the crankcase it would be time to replace the pulse pump.
The same thing will happen on any of the McCulloch saws with a pulse pump. It can drive you crazy trying to track down the leak if you are not aware of it.
Mark
The same thing will happen on any of the McCulloch saws with a pulse pump. It can drive you crazy trying to track down the leak if you are not aware of it.
Mark
Found it. Leaking though the hole in the blue circle - see pic. On the other side you can see an angled passage going inward. If I cover it with my finger, it holds Vac and pressure. There was a small piece of foam covering the hole. This side uses two seals - an inner seal with the lip facing in and an outer seal with the lip facing out. Maybe the inner seal is leaking? I haven't pulled the side cover off yet. Funny, I don't remember a problem with this when I built it, but it was probably 10+ years ago. I'll probably go ahead and replace the seals and clean the points anyway since I have it down this far and I already have the seals.
I am going to post this photo in the chainsaw thread. Since there was a piece of foam over the hole, seems like this may be normal - some kind of bleed hole.
I believe they referred to that as a "weep hole", intended to drain any leakage from the crankshaft seal away from the points box. The second seal was insurance that the points stayed clean. I know some guys do not use two seals when they put the big saws together since the AM seals that fit the crankshaft and the bore of the crankcase cover (SKF 6763) are wider than the OEM 57897/57898 seals that occupy that bore and you can't fit the second thinner seal (57897) in the remaining space.
Mark
Mark
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