McCulloch Chain Saws

[rwoods]

SP 105 video link

[video=youtube;QoUHfAS7USs]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QoUHfAS7USs[/video] Ron

 

[promac850]

It seems like you got another good Mac Ron. Hopefully it is as good or better than you expect it to be.

 

[Evanrude]

PM700, PM800, PM850, SP81, that's about all I can think of right now. Parts are fairly common for these saws, and many do interchange.

If you're not 'stuck' on having a RH starter, then you have a wide world of options. Among LH start Mac saws over 70cc, there's the 1-50 family, or a 200, 250, 300, 380, 450, 450, 550, 105, 125, SP70, or 7-10. The saws Promac610 listed would also be great choices.

RH start saws over 70cc would include a 6-10, CP70, 440, 790, 795, 797, or 1-70series (such as a 1-70 or 1-72). Parts (especialy bars) would be easiest to find for the 6-10, 7-10, CP70, SP70, or the saws ProMac listed. The 'rest' aren't that bad either though as far as parts are concerned.




The saws you suggested would be great choices for him. He did state he likes the RH start Macs however, so he'd have to "settle" for an LH side starter setup if he went with one of your suggestions. I doubt that'd be much of a problem however.



Think it'll take that long???:msp_lol:

Thanks guys! I'll keep my eyes open. I was looking at the 1-70's and was worried about parts availability so thats why I asked here. I'll check out the other models you've suggested. The RH starter isnt a must, I just thought it was neat. Thanks again!

 

[HeRoze]

That sounds like it would work. Trimming it so it matches the angle of the chamfer on the bottom of the cylinder. Will see what I can do tomorrow. ===

If you get something to work, please update us - I've got a couple of these coming in the future.

 

[promac850]

Alright, this is quite frustrating. I have spent two hours working on getting the rings in... I noticed that there are in fact, two chamfers leading into the bottom of the cylinder... Which means you can get the rings past the first chamfer, but it is nearly impossible to get them past the second one... I used the caulk tube trick, and whittled it down many times, and still no luck. Tried the pick trick, no access to the rings once they're past the first chamfer. It's driving me ####in nuts. :bang:

I think there really is a special factory tool that would allow one who is assembling this engine to get it together very easily. If anyone has that tool, I'll buy it for 25 bucks.


RandyMac, what say you?

 

[djones]

Like many mechanics I have several sets of feeler guages. Have you tried using two or more sets at once down the side of the cylinder to guide them in ? I would imagine that 3 sets would be ideal. They're flexible enough to be pushed out of your way while working the piston in.

 

[promac850]

Like many mechanics I have several sets of feeler guages. Have you tried using two or more sets at once down the side of the cylinder to guide them in ? I would imagine that 3 sets would be ideal. They're flexible enough to be pushed out of your way while working the piston in.

Hmmm... will go give that a shot. Hopefully it works.

 

[promac850]

Still won't go together. I'm running out of patience. I even went as far to polish those little chamfers in hopes that the damn thing would slide in easier. Still didn't work, feeler gauges, pick, pop can, caulk tube; geez, how the #### am I supposed to get it together? I've put various other small engines back together, and the rings weren't that much trouble. I don't understand why it's so fricking hard on this thing.

 

[stinkbait]

I have never had a problam installing a piston in a 10 series. The cylinder is tapered at the bottom. Just stick your finger in a bottle of 2stroke oil and wipe it all overs the piston and then slide it in the cylinder. Wiggle it a little if you have to.

 

[homelitejim]

Still won't go together. I'm running out of patience. I even went as far to polish those little chamfers in hopes that the damn thing would slide in easier. Still didn't work, feeler gauges, pick, pop can, caulk tube; geez, how the #### am I supposed to get it together? I've put various other small engines back together, and the rings weren't that much trouble. I don't understand why it's so fricking hard on this thing.

Remember to be calm, anger only breaks rings. Take a break and try again later, it isn't going anywhere, and we will still be here when you get it done. Best to do it right and not throw it across the room. Remember to smile.:msp_biggrin:

 

[promac850]

I have never had a problam installing a piston in a 10 series. The cylinder is tapered at the bottom. Just stick your finger in a bottle of 2stroke oil and wipe it all overs the piston and then slide it in the cylinder. Wiggle it a little if you have to.

Got the piston in, but why is it so hard to push it into the cylinder? I had the skirt past the chamfers, but geez, I could hardly get the piston to move at all. What happened? Without the rings, the piston slid fine in the cylinder. What now?

P.S. yes the rings were in the grooves, in the proper position.

 

[Busmech]

Still won't go together. I'm running out of patience. I even went as far to polish those little chamfers in hopes that the damn thing would slide in easier. Still didn't work, feeler gauges, pick, pop can, caulk tube; geez, how the #### am I supposed to get it together? I've put various other small engines back together, and the rings weren't that much trouble. I don't understand why it's so fricking hard on this thing.

Have you checked the end gap? I had a similar problem with an old Mac, the rings I bought off ebay were misslabled, they were a size to big.

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

Got the piston in, but why is it so hard to push it into the cylinder? I had the skirt past the chamfers, but geez, I could hardly get the piston to move at all. What happened? Without the rings, the piston slid fine in the cylinder. What now?

P.S. yes the rings were in the grooves, in the proper position.

Remove your piston out of the cylinder. Remove the rings off the piston
place it in to the cylinder and check the end gap.
If the ends are closed you need to file some off each end for the right gap.

 

[promac850]

Yea I checked the end gap a long time ago. It was right within specs.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Did you lubricate the rings real good before inserting the piston?

 

[djones]

The only thing I could come up with at this point would be using an aluminum soda can to get you to the second chamfer. Cut to close dimensions of the piston without rings, lube well and push or tap with a hammer handle.

we're counting on you to solve this problem for future rebuilds, don't give up.

 

[promac850]

Did you lubricate the rings real good before inserting the piston?

Yeah, basically dunked it in oil. Maybe I need to coat the piston and cylinder walls a little better. I'm gonna go out there and look for any signs of something hanging up on a port or whatever. Don't worry too much, I will get this thing together.

 

[briantutt]

Poulan Pro

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/98495.htm

Better go here with that comment before Randy gets after ya :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[promac850]

Got it in again. moved a little easier this time, but still a little "sticky" at certain parts of the cycle. :msp_confused: I checked, the rings were not catching the exhaust port at all. I wonder if the skirt of the piston somehow got swaged a bit from sitting in the sun. (I always had it sitting at BDC when I was done for the day, and the crank rested on the lower crankcase so the bearings were supported)

Could it be the 15W-40 oil I'm using to lube this stuff up?

 

[RandyMac]

I have the Poulan Pro and I am very satisfied with it. Especially with the cutting speed and power with the anti-vibration system. Clean slices... I got it for $160 since my old Craftsman has gone kaput...

Oh Christ!

I think you miss clicked, look for the Poulan thread

LOL!
Sounds like a Poulan ad.