McCulloch Chain Saws

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See my edit above, still does not really spell it out but by now you may know that spark plug recommendations and applications are pretty flexible.

Not sure about the E3 plugs, but the "Easy Start" have had their own thread a time or two already.

Since this is a McCulloch thread, I will try to keep the focus on McCulloch stuff.

Mark

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According to one tree service guy I deal with, the McCulloch PM6 was "the best bucket saw ever", and I would guess he has at least two dozen in various stages of disrepair in his inventory today.

I have worked on my SP40, but have not yet spent any time on the little Mac's. One day in order to round out the collection I will have to get to work a few of the small ones. I have a couple (310's?) from Modified Mark and Lumber Inspector along with the SP40 just waiting for attention. Dan (Manyhobbies) has a PM6 waiting for me as well if I can ever get back up his way. I hear you must develop a certain love for a saw you have to pull the engine from the housing to work on the carburetor...

Mark

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I haven't seen an SP40 in quites some time Mark... that one is in nice shape. I know quite a few tree guys that started with PM6's and Poulan SD25's... they were the saws to have back then.

Gary
 
PM 650 chain brake

I can't quite figure out how to get the chain brake assy back together. It seems like the black hook/lever should hook on the pin that is mounted to the movable arm but the pin doesn't go far enough over. There is a witness slot in the casting that sort of implies that pin should go all the way over past the hook. Can someone verify this or even better explain how to get it back together? :chatter:
 
I can't quite figure out how to get the chain brake assy back together. It seems like the black hook/lever should hook on the pin that is mounted to the movable arm but the pin doesn't go far enough over. There is a witness slot in the casting that sort of implies that pin should go all the way over past the hook. Can someone verify this or even better explain how to get it back together? :chatter:

I might have a picture of one to share with you. I've dealt with it on one saw, but that was more than I wanted. I was lucky to be able to force the thing back together. Between that and working with rewind springs, they about do me in. I hate springs under tension! Starter pawl springs are about enough for me.

Is yours the regular wraparound brake handle or has it been changed to the newer flag handle? Some memory makes me think the actuation works a bit different between the two.
 
I am having some problems with chain tension on my Super Pro 40 (SP-40). I'll get the chain adjusted properly then start the saw and try to cut and the chain gets so tight that it can't move freely. I don't know if I'm missing a bolt somewhere or what. I am torquing the bar down tightly, there is only one nut that holds it on, correct?
 
I am having some problems with chain tension on my Super Pro 40 (SP-40). I'll get the chain adjusted properly then start the saw and try to cut and the chain gets so tight that it can't move freely. I don't know if I'm missing a bolt somewhere or what. I am torquing the bar down tightly, there is only one nut that holds it on, correct?

Sounds like an oiling issue perhaps? If you don't have enough oil getting to the bar rails, the chain will quickly heat up and expand. . . Making the chain too tight. Check that your bar-oil holes aren't plugged, clean the saw by the clutch, and clean the bar rails while you're at it.

Also make sure the tensioner is properly seated in the bar hole.

If the bar nuts are tight, the chain shouldn't tighten or loosen without another cause, like misalignment or heat.
 
1968, I knew you were just a lad.

It is a special thing to have and run a family relic, good job Gary!!

Thanks Randy... it's a pretty cool little saw. I really wish I would have got a hold of my gramps 250 Super before my step-gramma sold it off after gramps went to the big shovel operator shack in the sky... :)

Gary
 
Sounds like an oiling issue perhaps? If you don't have enough oil getting to the bar rails, the chain will quickly heat up and expand. . . Making the chain too tight. Check that your bar-oil holes aren't plugged, clean the saw by the clutch, and clean the bar rails while you're at it.

Also make sure the tensioner is properly seated in the bar hole.

If the bar nuts are tight, the chain shouldn't tighten or loosen without another cause, like misalignment or heat.

That is part of the problem. The oiler was working yesterday but I don't think it's working now. Where are the oiler holes located? The other part of the problem is the chain tension; I set it properly and a few seconds later it tightens up so much that it can't roll on the bar. I can fix it by loosening the bar nut and playing with the adjuster screw but it keeps happening. The only thing causing this that I can think of is a bad sprocket but I looked at it without taking it off and it looked fine. You're right, it may not be aligned properly. Is the bar supposed to be in the up position at the tip or aiming more down?
 
That is part of the problem. The oiler was working yesterday but I don't think it's working now. Where are the oiler holes located? The other part of the problem is the chain tension; I set it properly and a few seconds later it tightens up so much that it can't roll on the bar. I can fix it by loosening the bar nut and playing with the adjuster screw but it keeps happening. The only thing causing this that I can think of is a bad sprocket but I looked at it without taking it off and it looked fine. You're right, it may not be aligned properly. Is the bar supposed to be in the up position at the tip or aiming more down?

Sounds like maybe an alignment issue, and now I know you aren't oiling right. Get the IPL for your saw, from the link posted above this reply. You'll be able to figure out where, what, and how on the oiler from there.

When you tighten a chain, make sure #1 that the tensioner is actually in the bar hole. . . I have a couple Mac's that will deceive you. You think the tensioner is in the hole, and it's not. Now, from a slacked position--with bar nuts snug but not tight (allowing the bar to move)--grab the bar tip with your fingers and pull up, while you tighten the tensioner.

Too snug a chain can cause premature bar wear issues. You should be able to pull the chain (in the middle of the bar) about 1/2 off the bar, and have it snap back down. . . Like a rubber band. Too tight, and you won't be able to pull up that 1/2" or so--too loose and there won't be a nice snap to the chain when it's released.

Hope this helps.
 
Picked up a Pro Mac 800 last week does it have a auto oiler and if so is it adjustable?
 

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